Bongo Fury

I've been watching the water level like a hawk since having the engine replaced in Bongotron & I have noticed it's been dropping slightly.

Until today I've been unable to trace the source of this loss, but hopefully I've tracked it down now.



It looks to be coming from the pipe into the top of the thermostat housing, can't figure out if it's from the hose joint with the hard pipe or where the pipe is threaded into the alloy housing though currently.

I was unable to trace it before as I've never looked whilst the engine was running, the coolant that's leaking had evaporated by the time I'd had a chance to look on previous attempts.

thats an odd one mate, i would be surprised if it was the steel into ally thats leaking but its possible.
at least its an easy fix, check the rubber pipe first, and look for a scab on the steel pipe stub at the lowest point.
simply unbolt it all from the engine block,there is a gasket there.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

I'm not convinced it's not just coming from the hose, I dislike the spring type hose clamp, I'm going to replace with a traditional type & nip up.

http://normapacific.com/Listing/Product ... ing+Clamps

use them not just regular ones

Mark Elvin wrote:I'm not convinced it's not just coming from the hose, I dislike the spring type hose clamp, I'm going to replace with a traditional type & nip up.

Interesting you say that (if, by 'traditional' you mean jubilee clips), as some have concluded the spring type are less trouble than jubilee type clips that don't maintain uniform tension when the engine heats and cools (there was a fad for fitting silicon hoses a while back and this came up then). One or two plastic connection stubs (e.g. rear heater radiator) where cracking is likely if jubilee clips used. But I'm not going to argue with your engineering background!

Spring / constant pressure clips are great on new pliable rubber fitted to clean smooth pipework. Once a joint is disturbed, the rubber has hardened & set, or the clip has lost some of its spring it is harder to get a reliable seal. I've tended to use Blue Hylomar sealant and then use a pair of quality stainless steel Jubilee / worm drive clamps as a belt & braces solution. So far, never had a problem.

This is my rear heater bypass arrangement;

Hi
Say what you like, the hoses last 10-15 years, so do the clips....with no trouble!...When replacing hoses, if everything is cleaned and they are fitted properly, then you can expect similar performance....NOTE....clean new hose, nice new Mazda clips, clean shiny stub.
Cheers
Helen

helen&tony wrote:Hi
Say what you like, the hoses last 10-15 years, so do the clips....with no trouble!...When replacing hoses, if everything is cleaned and they are fitted properly, then you can expect similar performance....NOTE....clean new hose, nice new Mazda clips, clean shiny stub.
Cheers
Helen

im with you helen.

If you want a top quality NORMA constant pressure clamp FOC let me know and also let me know the Diameter of the hose.