Bongo Fury

Hi all, well after 16 years the exhaust on the Bongo has finally decided to give up.

I know I should be buying stainless but the difference is about £100 and frankly I'm too skint to justify the other £100. The exhaust I'm looking at comes with a 2 year warranty so that will do til I can afford stainless.

Anyway to the question, I've looked and can only really find bits of info.

I've been advised that I should get a full exhaust system as it's going to be a nightmare to remove, however mine is the winter pack model with the flap valve. Is there any point in keeping the exhaust as a 4 part system or should I just buy a 3 section exhaust and do away with the valve? Do quite like the option of having it though :-/

I'm swithering about doing it myself but have no power for grinders etc, is it a fairly straight forward job to change as I will be changing the full system so I'm guessing I will unbolt from turbo, either side of valve and a few brackets? Am I missing anything?

This should give you an idea, its an easy system to change providing you have the necessary tools, personally if the exhaust valve system is working I would keep it.


http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

Fit a 3 part system.....exhaust valve not required and can only cause problems.

I had a b**ger of a job getting the nuts off of my flap valve. If you do remove it, be sure to suitably plug the vacuum hose.

don't know anything about the valve but i put a full system on our from these guys...very pleased with the pipes and the seller and that has to be a couple of years ago. make sure you get all the gaskets , nuts/bolts etc at the same time. I put all new hanger rubbers on as well. job is a piece of duff....really!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-BONGO-C ... 19cdf5b733

(no connection to seller other than satisfied customer.)

keep the valve, just replace from the next joint back, dont attempt to undo the 4 bolts that go through the valve block unless you have spares.

I replaced the whole system with a standard steel one,
removed all the cold start gubbins from under the passenger seat
and fitted a diesel heater in its place,much more use in this climate imo

I may have used an angle grinder to remove exhaust parts though,some plus gas and a spanner
may well have done the job,I just didn't have the patience that day

Just went with the 4 piece system. Am I right in saying that the exhaust is split at the valve (Front 2 pipes split from centre section & backbox?

If the nuts are seized at the valve can I just grind them off?

Got all new bolts, gasketsa & hangers from Regis

these may help.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... 2of02.html

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... 1of02.html

Thanks for the diagrams, got the old exhaust off today but can't fit the new one til I get new bolts for the valve and down pipe bracket. I'm guessing I can just use an exhaust clamp for the front pipe to the gearbox?

Was a wee bit of a horrible job, bolts holding downpipe to turbo were TIGHT managed to punch the ground when they eventually went lol

Managed to get this done yesterday and it went not too bad :-/

Took the old exhaust off from the turbo and was going to cut it at the bend where it goes up and over the chassis but luckily it had sheared off there anyway (I say luck...)

Had to cut the flap valve out and it was stuck open, not a bad thing so it's been left that way lol. For reference and anyone doing this, replace the flap valve bolts, they are m8 x 100mm, I used full threaded as I couldn't get parallel shank that length, shouldn't make a difference. Flap valve is easier to do off the car.

Another tip, put the new exhaust rubber hangers in boiling water before fitting, makes things so much easier.

One major tip too, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!! A trip to A and E (After going mountain biking first of course) revealed I got rust in my eye and now have conjunctivitis and horrible eye cream for a week!

mulshy wrote:I replaced the whole system with a standard steel one,
removed all the cold start gubbins from under the passenger seat
and fitted a diesel heater in its place,much more use in this climate imo

I may have used an angle grinder to remove exhaust parts though,some plus gas and a spanner
may well have done the job,I just didn't have the patience that day

Hi I just got me a night heater and my van has all the gubbins under the passenger seat, is there anything to note in the removal? I'm leaving the valve on the exhaust for now so is it ok to just disconnect everything from it?

Mine was anything but a nightmare. In fact I would say it was a dream to work on.

I just put the two nearside wheels up on the pavement, donned a boiler suit and got underneath without jack or ramps and had loads of room to work.

In fact, it is probably time I crawled underneath again to check that it's not started to go at the same place as on the original system.


Frank

gordie wrote: Hi I just got me a night heater and my van has all the gubbins under the passenger seat, is there anything to note in the removal? I'm leaving the valve on the exhaust for now so is it ok to just disconnect everything from it?

easy to do. There is a vacuum feed which runs round to the front in a mix of rubber and metal pipes. This needs to be plugged. Electrics seem to cope with just being disconnected.

I left the exhaust pipe stuff alone (as you are planning to do) until the pipe needed replacing when I put in a downpipe from a bongo without the cold kit.

Brilliant thanks,
Wish the bloody rain would hold off long enough for me to fit it now.