Bongo Fury

Hi I though there would be some more info on Block testing using kits like these.

http://blockchek.com/

My 2.0 litre temperature is a bit low. I have fitted a new mazda stat (old one stuck open), it helped a little but when on a drive it sits on the line just over "C". Putting the front and rear heater on full does drop it a bit closer to the C. Plenty of heat and no obvious gumming in the oil. A little smoke on start up.

With the vehicle stationary and revs at 2500 rpm. It slowly goes up to 11 O'clock. The front fans do kick in.

Im sure the temperature guage was reading higher on regular runs.

P>S its a 2 litre and well bled. Im getting even heat over the whole rad. Old fluid was reasonably clean.

That looks like a good bit of kit. Wonder if there is a UK distributor?

Petrol bongos do run cool

Simon Jones wrote:That looks like a good bit of kit. Wonder if there is a UK distributor?

one...


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/16110853 ... =95&ff19=0

Personally I would re check the thermostat, it been known for new thermostats to be faulty(sticky).

Did you test the new thermostat before you fitted it.?

ginger colin wrote:P>S its a 2 litre and well bled.

Without wishing to knock this thread off topic, can you confirm that you have the extra pipe on the expansion tank to indicate it is self-bleeding?

Hi simon
The tank has 1 pipe at the cap, and 3 down the side. I have not traced them back yet. Is there a method similar to the v6.

This is the extra pipe that the 2 litre has, & I'm lead to believe is for self bleeding. Certainly other 2 litre owners have reported they don't have the standard pipe that the diesel & V6 have which would back up the theory that they do not need bleeding via conventional methods.

^^^
Could the diesel bleed pipe be done like that then?

Hi simon.yep..mine is like that. Im going to pull the stat out first and see if its sticky. Its a genuine mazda one.

Gasy wrote:^^^
Could the diesel bleed pipe be done like that then?

No, been there, tried it. There is insufficient pressure to get it to go 'up hill'. I made a crude but effective bleeding kit using a valve, reservoir & pump. You open the valve which lets coolant flow to the reservoir & is then pumped up to the header tank. Effectively, you can leave the bleed pipe partially open & let it burp out all the air without fear of the level dropping too low. There's a mk2 portable version in the making, but this was cobbled together using bits lying around the garage.

still think it must be possible to put some form of bleed valve in the end of the pipe to replace the bung