Bongo Fury

Hi all,
The central locking has stopped working on my 1997 Bongo. I only ever used the key to open it. On occasions it was intermittent and I was putting it down to the main battery being low as it was mainly happening in the morning. However it has now stopped altogether.

I've read the various posts on the subject this afternoon and done the following: changed the fuse in the interior fuse box, manually open and locked the door by pushing the interior drivers door button. It didn't open or close the other doors. The electric windows are still working. I don't have a 'meter' to check for voltage etc.

Looking at the posts on this subject it could well be a broken wire and may require a new loom. However can anyone suggest any further tests or doing anything else to check what might be causing the problem?
Thanks

Its probably a break in the loom where it passes from the A pillar into the door.

Simple enough to fix yourself.

Sorry if this insults your intelligence but just in case you are a beginner
I would suggest investing in a small meter, learn how to use it and you can do a few simple checks.
This would be fine, you just need DC voltage to 20V and a resistance circuit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-LCD-M ... 337b9c452d

This is good as it shows you how to use it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU

Then check the voltages and you can test for broken wires etc, its a handy skill and easy to learn, I wouldn't go near the mains in the house though unless you know exactly what you are doing.
This meter is fine for testing fuses batteries etc ( not vehicle batteries)
Now I wonder if some one could do a basic Bongo tests fact sheet?

Bob wrote:Its probably a break in the loom where it passes from the A pillar into the door.

Simple enough to fix yourself.

I agree, check the obvious stuff fuse etc then check for the above

Have you checked / changed the battery in the fob? Seems like the easiest / cheapest place to start.

Simon Jones wrote:Have you checked / changed the battery in the fob? Seems like the easiest / cheapest place to start.

Very good point you could use a meter to test the battery!
We often get drawn in and forget to check the obvious

Well, having read it again, the OP didn't actually say it was remote central locking, so I may have jumped the gun about the fob

Simon and Winchman,
Thanks for your advice and guidance. As suggested I'll purchase a meter.

On closer inspection there is some tape around the wiring loom as it goes into the door pillar so I suspect that there may have been a break in the protective casing before. When it stops raining I'll get out and check it and identify the break in the wire.

Is my best option to try and solder a repair or buy a new wiring loom?
Many thanks
Ally

You don't need a loom, this is a very common fault on most cars and easily fixed.
I would cut a couple of inches of wire out and join it, the bit that passes through the door work hardens and eventually snaps due to the constant movement, but I am sure if you manage to find the broken end then just join it, it will be fine.
Solder then heat shrink sleeve is best but depends on your tool kit and skills.
Best possible solution is find the wire, put one join in the A pillar and the other inside the door, make it easier to do and not visible.
Best basic repair is this
http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/20160-15a-te ... power.html
Then tape it up
Second best is these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/straight-crimp-connectors
Assuming you have the correct crimping tool?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ratchet-Crimp ... 3cd271e262
Pliers can be used but can be a bit hit and miss.
Best fix is solder it and fit sleeving on top
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150-Pcs-2-1-H ... 232dc1e85f
Whats your location? Some one nearby may have all the bits you need to fix it, but if you have to spend £20-30 on tools then have a fixed Bongo you have saved the garage cost and have the start of a tool kit for future

Further to Winchman's best fix, If you don't want to or don't have the facilities for heat shrinking, slide two sizes of silicon rubber sleeving per join further along the wire before making each joint.

Splice the wire strands together before applying solder so they don't spring apart during the soldering process. Maybe even bind them with some spare strands or very thin fuse wire. This should also help to join to form a gradual lump making it easy to slide first one and then the next layer of sleeving over the join.

Don't make the join where it will be subjected to flexing.

Only worth fitting a new loom if all or most of the wires are on the verge of failing.


Frank

Hi,
Just had a look and discovered the following broken wires, a black, orange and yellow/red one all at the door hinge virtually underneath the cable tie. All are very brittle. By the looks of things another two have small nicks in them.

Thanks for all of your replies.
Ally

Don't be down its a simple couple of hour fix.
I would just pop to the scrap yard and get some cable the same size, do a sketch of the wires remove and replace one at a time , it wont matter what colour you fit as long as the start and finish wires match.
I have used flex of an old kettle before now LOL

Hope it's ok bumping this thread with an extra point.

The downloadable (members only) wiring diagram for the central locking shows two fuses - a 30A for the feed to the control unit, and a 10A for the feed through the driver's A-pillar to the switch in the door. In the 'Fusebox' fact-sheet the 30A fuse is located in the cabin, but I can't see a reference to the 10A feed to the switch. Any clues? Is it sharing with another function?

Thanks!

i think your talking about fuse no 1

top left

The two fuses are;
switch power source - often switched over to the L/B so if that's flat only the drivers door opens

and the power to door locks themselves other than the drivers door;