Bongo Fury

1st i'd like to say a massive hello to everyone here from a long time forum lurker.

I finally took the dive and bought myself membership last week and bongo yesterday (happy days ) . Although it seems to have something wrong with it a bit more tedious than i 1st thought.

It sounds very much like a loose alternator belt very high pitched screeching and from the same area when i checked so i didn't think much of it. After buying it and going to tighten up the belt i noticed that all belts were fine and it wasn't them screeching, it's coming from the area just above the alternator. When accelerating it very rarely blows what looks like exhaust fumes and there is a small area of soot build up. So the screeching is actually air whistling very loud from somewhere

I've linked a couple pics if that helps anyone that's able to advise or seen anything similar.

Thanks in advance

Colin

In all likelyhood it is the number 1 stud on the exhaust manifold gasket.

Ah ok thanks very much for the timely reply. Is that a big job to do? As i'd rather get it done asap and have the facilities to do it myself if it isn't too problematic.
Also can that be damaging to the bongo (never mind my ears ) if it isn't sorted asap?

Sorry for all the questions in such quick succession so soon after joining.

Edit: Nevermind I found the DIY sheet in the members section, looks like I'm in for some fun times ahead

i can see the stud is broken in your picture. try this .
http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... ud#p418217

Thanks very much for the link, that pics, they make it look almost easy. I will have to set aside a weekend for this one as i don't like my 1st few days of being a new bongo owner being overpowered by that high pitched screeching

Is there any temp fix for the noise until i can get space in my family's garage (maybe 1-2 weeks)?

if its not done soon it could overheat and damage the alternator. depends how warped the manifold is. its your shout really.

good luck with it.

Thanks very much for the info, I think ill postpone the weekend away and put some pressure for some work space instead so i can get it done as soon as.

if you strip it the same as i did you may need a few spare nuts and studs around the turbo, these tend to get chewed, soak everything well in wd 40 or similar the night before.

Do the nuts need heated before removing - aren't they copper or something?

not seen that matt,they are all supposed to be (hot side) studs/nuts and bolts, more heat resistant than the inlet manifold side. all steel that ive seen.

Could the manifold (suitably sleeved) be used as a means of keeping the drill bit(s) centred while the old stud is drilled out and the hole tapped?

mikeonb4c wrote:Could the manifold (suitably sleeved) be used as a means of keeping the drill bit(s) centred while the old stud is drilled out and the hole tapped?

Drill the stud using the guide (tube)as mentioned,then use an easy out.

teenmal wrote:

mikeonb4c wrote:Could the manifold (suitably sleeved) be used as a means of keeping the drill bit(s) centred while the old stud is drilled out and the hole tapped?

Drill the stud using the guide (tube)as mentioned,then use an easy out.

Careful with the Easyout though. They are hardened and if it breaks the only way out then is to get it spark eroded out which is a specialist job (we have one at work) but you would have to take the head off in order to do this!!
I restore old motorbikes and a great way to remove broken/stubborn bolts etc is to weld an old bolt head to the stud. Firstly this gives a strong and secure location to drive against (socket/spanner/hex key, whatever you choose), and secondly, if you are quick the flash of extreme heat from the welder is usually enough to free the corrosion off making extraction almost painless. I sparked out more broken Easyouts then snapped studs until I started using the above method.

Nothing wrong with other suggestions made here, but as I said , careful with the Easyout.

RDCol

good tip mate, i too have had more bad luck with them than good luck.
the problem with the manifold studs seems to be that if put in tight they bottom out in the hole and lock tight, so your not just fighting the tight thread---- it is also jammed against the bottom of the hole.

plus the stud never seems to break off flush or above the top of the hole, its always below

Northern Bongolow wrote:i can see the stud is broken in your picture. try this .
http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... ud#p418217

Hi Northern - non-mechanical female here! If it's not too much trouble could you copy stony's pic and add an arrow to the bit where you say you can see that the stud is broken, please?

Hi stony, welcome and I hope you love your bongo - at least when it stops sceeching! I have a similar problem to you. I told the garage that sold me the vehicle soon after I bought it - during the warranty period. They said they didn't know what it was, although I have a more cynical view as to whether anyone actually looked. I have been worried that it is the turbo (expensive!), but I would say that it is more of a whistle than a whine. It comes in at about 2,200 - 2,300 revs and is very noisy when going uphill. It stops when I take my foot off the accelerator and doesn't do it when I am not moving until it gets to about 3,500 revs (not that I drive like that - just when testing it!). It drove me crazy when I went to Wales - with a hill nearly every minute of driving, and actually gave me a headache.

I have put off doing a conversion until this problem is diagnosed and sorted and I have decided to take it to a garage myself, because it's £30 in diesel every time I take it back to where it came from and they still may not find the cause. I'll be taking it in somewhere local next week and any suggestions I can give them might help with tracing the cause of the whistle/screech.

If someone can indicate the stud for me, I'll have a look myself before I take it in.

I'm hoping it won't be a seriously expensive job