Bongo Fury

Hello All from New Zealand.
I'm looking for some advice on the Injector pump issue that i've had for a very long time now.
I've a 2.5 TD AFT Bongo. Over the last couple of years I've had a cold running issue which has been said is the 'Seals of the Injector pump hardening' for the last 4 months i've been trying, with a local garage to source a 2nd hand unit with no success at all.
Do I have to get a new unit? Or can the unit be taken off and the seals replaced (without sending away?)
Bongo's are RARE here in NZ and seems little is known about compatible parts etc (even though the WLT engine used in many UTE's here) I should point out that after so many garages, this is the first to agree with what was said on here at least 2 years ago on one of my other post, and has been great with assisting me over this time (it was them that suggested 2nd due to cost of new, and tight $ over here)

Any advice please?

Cheers

Andy

Should have no problem getting a Bosch dealer to reseal the pump.

Had mine done a while ago.

do a search using the search tab at the top right of this page, put in cold and start and solenoids, the and is important, then click on each link and read.
http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... ds#p585174

this ones a long one ,but it gets there
http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... +solenoids

Thanks for the info.
It's not a cold start start problem (checked all of that a couple of years ago from advice on forum)
It's a cold running problem, after 2 years and many garages this garage confirmed what a lot of people said on here, 99% sure it's seals in the injector pump gone hard, this means that until the heat is in pump and softens the seals, it allows air back into fuel line and thus cuts out. Once the engine and pump warms up, seals soften, stops the air returning and she runs fine.
When started warm, no problem, leave for 5hr plus and start, she'll cut out.

Contacted Bosch NZ in Auckland (closest one) 'Oh, not sure we do that, we can send you a new pump'

Thanks again.

Ziggi

A couple of options if you can't be without transport while your pump is being repaired: buy used one in the UK, get it professionally refurbished & sent out to you, or order one second hand from Japan (who relatively speaking, are just around the corner) & hopefully it will be in good condition. Whatever bits you have left over you could sell on to help recover the costs.

Well I bought Simon's spare pump so that one has gone....

Titan1995 wrote:Well I bought Simon's spare pump so that one has gone....

It's the way to go though isn't it: get a second hand one and have it refurbed so you can swap it straight over.

ziggi wrote:Hello All from New Zealand.
Do I have to get a new unit? Or can the unit be taken off and the seals replaced (without sending away?)

Any advice please?

Cheers

Andy

New unit not needed.
Once the IP is off each side o rings can be changed in minutes, the rear large o ring takes about 5min with an hour dinner break before tightening. the front seal is better removed with a simple home made puller.
I couldn'd belive how easy replacement was and how hard the seal and o rings were, but the had done 16yrs hard labour..........
If you need more info pm me.

The Great Pretender wrote:

ziggi wrote:Hello All from New Zealand.
Do I have to get a new unit? Or can the unit be taken off and the seals replaced (without sending away?)

Any advice please?

Cheers

Andy

New unit not needed.
Once the IP is off each side o rings can be changed in minutes, the rear large o ring takes about 5min with an hour dinner break before tightening. the front seal is better removed with a simple home made puller.
I couldn'd belive how easy replacement was and how hard the seal and o rings were, but the had done 16yrs hard labour..........
If you need more info pm me.

Hi,do you just stretch the O ring over the distributor body,then leave it to reshape.

teenmal wrote: Hi,do you just stretch the O ring over the distributor body,then leave it to reshape.

Yes.
Loosen the bolts until the o-ring is just exposed BUT NO FURTHER.
Then remove two bots completely. I wrapped tape around the body and put Vaseline on it then carefully worked the o-ring down until it rests on the two remaining bolts. Replace the removed bolts, the o-ring will now sit inside them, you can then lift the other two to allow the o-ring to sit in its groove. Leave it for an hour to let it normalise then tighten.

The Great Pretender wrote:

teenmal wrote: Hi,do you just stretch the O ring over the distributor body,then leave it to reshape.

Yes.
Loosen the bolts until the o-ring is just exposed BUT NO FURTHER.
Then remove two bots completely. I wrapped tape around the body and put Vaseline on it then carefully worked the o-ring down until it rests on the two remaining bolts. Replace the removed bolts, the o-ring will now sit inside them, you can then lift the other two to allow the o-ring to sit in its groove. Leave it for an hour to let it normalise then tighten.

Aye if you massage the O ring it will go back to its original size quicker.

The Great Pretender wrote:I wrapped tape around the body and put Vaseline on it then carefully worked the o-ring down until it rests on the two remaining bolts.

It is not generally recommended to use Vaseline for lubricating rubber (hence why KY jelly is used for lubricating other rubber items ). In this case, diesel would probably be the safest to use on O-rings.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 725AA9g5us
http://www.homegardenguides.com/garden- ... seals.html
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... ber=211213

I have a spare pump, but it needs attention. Garage changed the seals, but it still doesn't give full power..

yours for the postage, which might be a lot, it's a heavy old lump..

Derek

Simon Jones wrote:

The Great Pretender wrote:I wrapped tape around the body and put Vaseline on it then carefully worked the o-ring down until it rests on the two remaining bolts.

It is not generally recommended to use Vaseline for lubricating rubber (hence why KY jelly is used for lubricating other rubber items ). In this case, diesel would probably be the safest to use on O-rings.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 725AA9g5us
http://www.homegardenguides.com/garden- ... seals.html
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... ber=211213

Not recomending petroleum jelly based product on Oil seals ( O rings ) is very strange.