Bongo Fury

Hi all
Just a quick one, my radiator has just started weeping coolant at the tool edge where the metal tabs fold over the edge of the plastic part where the filler cap is. Is it wort trying to crimp the metal tabs over a bit harder, or should I just get a new Rad. If so is the diesel one the same as the v6

With something as critical as a radiator, I personally would go for replacement in preference to a repair. As far as I'm aware, the V6, 2.0 & diesel all share the same radiator. Genuine Mazda ones are considerably more expensive that the generic ones you can pick up for £80 or so, but for peace of mind I would opt for branded quality. If the current radiator has lasted 10+ years, then you can be confident that a genuine part should be good for a similar period.

Hi,it would probably be worthwhile checking with the supplier(manufacturer),the V6 radiator could be a higher spec.

Just checked,they are the same,only difference is oil cooler for automatic,none on manual.

ian at bongo towers does 2 options, one gen mazda and the other a very good alternative which is well priced and very good quality.

Just ordered one hope its the right one,says its for v6 but nothing about oil cooler will try and post a pic for verification from one of you fine people

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/cooli ... all-models

Thought I'd ask in the same post while I think of it...... Do you bleed the air out of a v6 coolant system the same as the diesel (seesaw method) as I read somewhere the 2.0lt petrol was self bleeding and wondered if the v6 was the same

That radiator will do the job. Bleed the V6 as per same method(s) as the diesel. May take a little while to get it up to the point where the thermostat opens and the bottom hose gets warm (normally coincides with the fans coming on). Check the level the next day as it will tend to drop a bit after it first cools down.

It's the perfect opportunity to flush the whole system out and refill with 5 litres of new anti freeze and then make up the rest with fresh water.

All the V6's are automatic so they should all have the oil cooler.

Thanks for all the info guy's, much appreciated, I'll let you know how I get on.
There's bound to be a few questions need answering before I'm finished like can I mix red anti freeze and the green that's already in there or do I need to flush all the green out first?

Thanks for all the info guy's, much appreciated, I'll let you know how I get on.
There's bound to be a few questions need answering before I'm finished like can I mix red anti freeze and the green that's already in there or do I need to flush all the green out first?

Don't mix red with green or blue as they are quite possibly completely different and incompatible formulations. You can buy 5 litres of traditional anti freeze for under £12 from Euro Car Parts and other motor factors, so flush it all out thoroughly and replace the whole lot.

Thanks for that Simon
After I posted the last thread I thought to my self what a stupid a** I was going to flush the system anyway. Just a thought though, as said previously, the rad is an oil cooler for the transmission fluid. Does that mean I would need to top the fluid up after if so is there a special one for the Bongo?
Think I read somewhere on hear the engine needs to be running while you check it is that right?

Sorry for all the question, but I don't want to get anything wrong and bu**er it up

The auto fluid is only pumped through the bottom of the radiator when the engine is running .. so NO .. don't have the engine running when the pipes are off ..

You will only lose a minimal amount of fluid but be prepared for some loss .. especially if you are working on a posh brick paved drive .. so have some rags handy ..

When you have changed the rad it would be prudent to check the boxes level ..

After a run with a engine warm .. the hand bake hard on .. the engine running at tick over.. go through the gears from low to park several times ... then with box in 'P'ark .. and the engine still running .. remove the gearbox dip stick and check the level (and colour of the fluid) .. you may need to dip and check several times to get an accurate fluid level 'reading' ..

if you lift the front end higher than the gearbox all the oil will run back to the gearbox so no loss.
once the pipes are off at the second joint (just under and forward of the starter battery) remove the rad/fans/pipes, all in one go, then swap the pipes and fans over on the bench. check the stubs are nice and tight to the oil cooler as they usually are supplied loose.

Hi Ian,this might be a good time to change the fluid if you dont know the history.

All fitted and working fine , however I do need to top the transmission fluid up a little.
Is there a specific type I need regarding any numbers related

Thanks in advance

Ian