Bongo Fury

I've got a problem with the rear 12v cigarette socket in my Bongo.

I have a removeable kitchen unit that plugs into this socket to run an electric cool box and the tap switch/water pump for the sink. The unit worked when we first got the van but stopped working soon after.

I tested the kitchen appliances on the front 12v socket using an extension lead and they all work fine on this.

I suspected the leisure battery and so got it tested. Hey presto, it had a dud cell. I replaced the leisure battery and thought that my troubles would be over. However the kitchen appliances would still not run off the rear socket.

The voltmeter is telling me that I have a healthy 12v at the leisure battery terminals, but only about 8v at the rear socket. As I'm getting some voltage I'm assuming that the problem is not the internal socket solder fuse blowing as described in other threads. Is this right?

Please can somebody explain to me what might be going on and how I can get my kitchen working properly again. I keep tripping over the 12v extension lead connected to the front socket, and I'm afraid I'm going to do myself some real damage soon (or suck the life out of van battery).

Cheers Bongoleers,

delectronic

Assuming you have nothing else connected to the socket when you check the voltage there, I would imagine you have a very dodgy connection somewhere. Make sure the battery terminals are clean, and that the connections there are tight. Also, if you can get access to it (I have never tried), make sure the wires are firmly connected on the back of the socket.

Thanks Moonshine.

I can feel a weekend of panel removal and scrabbling under the van tracing cables coming up.

I'll post any findings from my investigations.

Cheers,

Delectronic

I've taken the panel off that houses the rear 12v socket and tested the socket and cables. The problem is with the socket itself.

The cables that fit onto the socket blades gave me a good voltage and current reading, but the amp reading at the socket is low.

When I took the socket apart I noticed a bulge on the internal fuse wire/solder, but no cracks. I don't want to replace with copper wire or remove for reasons given in old posts (overheating and setting my van on fire).

Does anybody know the heat rating of this internal insulating fuse wire? I have some solder wire but don't know if it will run too hot before giving out.

Also, if the internal fuse is beyond repair does anybody know where I can get a Mazda 12v rear socket as a replacement. I imagine it should only be about ?5. I've looked on Lucas, Halfords, Maplins and various autoelectrics websites, but the sockets they sell are different sizes (too wide). This would mean having to cut a bigger hole in the Bongo's panel, which I'm not keen to do. Does this website or any of the conversion companies supply replacement sockets?

Cheers,

Delectronic

I reckon the size of wire to the rear socket is woefully inadequate.

I would uprate it all the way back to the leisure battery if you can.

Yikes!

I was actually relieved to find the socket problem, as it meant I might not need to pull in a new cable.

The cable does have enough power to run the cool box, water pump and striplights, as I bypassed the socket with some wires and crocodile clips to test it out and confirm it was only the socket.

Being the lazy type of mechanic, I'll probably live with the existing cable.

Thanks anyway,

Delectronic

Pippin

I tend to agree with you there. My fridge cuts out claiming low-voltage on the battery (leisure) way before it should - I've assumed that it's volt drop in the cable and cigarette lighter connectors.

I'm currently (sorry... ) trying to source a suitable connector I can put on the end of some 4mm cable which won't turn my fridge off after 3 days when it should do at least 5! Hopefully there's a suitable panel mount connector waiting to be discovered but otherwise it can be floating.

Anyone in Bongoland done a conversion to a power socket? I shall only convert one of the three power conns in the back. All three are off the leisure battery.

Cheers

Jon

I tried one of the newer Euro style cigarette style plug-sockets.
It wasn't tight enough and the plug used to come loose.
It also sticks out too far and got in the way of things.

I ended up hard-wiring it into a large ceramic connector block.
I have disconnected it only a couple of times in two years so it has not been a problem.

So many people (even electricians!) underestimate the problems of voltage drop and contact resistance.

At twelve volts (nominal) one just cannot afford to lose anything down the cable or at junctions/plugs/sockets.

So, Delectronic, you may think the cable is hefty enough but I assure you it is not, if you want both safety and extended use of your battery and heavy current drawing appliances.

I've got my kitchen back!

The thermal fuse within the rear 12v socket was repairable with a bit of soldering and the cool box, water pump and strip lights are all working fine again. I'll monitor how the new battery performs with the existing cable.

I got a Mazda Bongo rear 12v socket as a spare from AVA. I think they stripped it out of an old van.

Thanks for the advice.