Bongo Fury

I have some early stage rust on my NS wheelarch, inner and outer flange delaminating and blowing apart bu not much paint damage. On the OS there was a scab just behind the arch and above the bumper. I took the bumper off yesterday and had a poke about and I have a hole i could put my finger in there. Looking at the drawings the inner wheel arch should not be involved in that one but there does seem to be an inner skin of some sort which is paper thin in the vicinity of the hole i.e. above it, behind the wheel arch.

There was a thread on here a while ago by someone who had similar work done which I would love to see the pictures. I think it was a grey Bongo and I think the panel whacker (possibly a partner or relation) made all the patches. I just want to look at it so I can visualise what should be there under the skin as it were. I find the parts diagrams a bit harder to follow than pics.

[img]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/rust%20stuco%201%20pic_files/bongo_data/P26-07-11_1337.jpg[/img] I pinched this pic from another member who had superb work done. It is just to show where the hole is above the bumper. On mine the wheel arch is unaffected and there is 1/2 inch of good metal although between the edge of the wheel arch and the hole. There seems to be a bit of rusty metal above and behind the hole, it is very thin, I'm not sure what it is ??? Could it just be a flake of the outer skin ??? I came across the same sort of thing with my A post hole, thin but springy and dark brown not bright orange rust ???

my worst fear is that it is rust that has been filled over and got thinner and thinner over the years but hasn't rusted on the filler side. I think I might have just answered my own question .

I wish I could edit stuff when my brain catches up! i have just had a look from inside the inner arch and the hole comes through into there so I Just need to cut some more of it back. I will probably get the inner arch patched and do a fibreglass repair for now because the seam is still intact apart from the last 10 mm or so which is open about 1.5 mm.

Any pointers to threads with pictures would be a help.

I got v acceptable DIY results that are holding up well:

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... ch#p523956

Hi
If you haven't got a lot of rust , after grinding it up with a dremel, or similar, you may think why fiddle with chopping lumps out of the car, when a minor repair will do.
Look no further than "lead loading"...something of a forgotten art these days, but with a wee practice, you'll do a nice job, and it lasts!...After repairing, give it a good dollop of waxoyl or dinitrol, and you'll be safe from corrosion for an age!
Cheers
Helen

Hi,if your soldering skills are not up to the mark this might help.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-WHE ... 1c28785817

Thanks for all the replies, yes I will try and spray the back of the seam, I will use ACF 50 as I always keep some handy, just done the dif and rear brake pipes etc with it.

I have heard about lead loading, I am normally happy soldering but I imagine a car body to be quite a heat sink, I don't think I could do it out of doors for instance. I will look in to it though, I think Frost Restorations have a how to on their site as they sell all the stuff for it.

That universal arch is certainly clever but I only but my arches are 90% good it is just the vertical bit above the cill that has sarted to flare apart on the NS. It will certainly go in the memory bank for future reference.

Incidentally, does anyone know if Frost POR15 anti rust primer is any better than the hamerite one sold in the little kit?

Hi
I've always used Jenolite...and I picked that habit up from my Dad, who regularly used it on the old metal windows in the house...so i've seen it work well for 60 years...I used to make my own rust treatment when I worked in labs...PM me and I'll give you the recipe....after treating, use a resin primer such as Bondaprimer from Bondaglass-Voss...I'll run by the treating of the seams if you like...easy and VERY effective if you catch it in time...I've had no recurrence in 6years!
Cheers
Helen

helen&tony wrote:Hi
I've always used Jenolite...and I picked that habit up from my Dad, who regularly used it on the old metal windows in the house...so i've seen it work well for 60 years...I used to make my own rust treatment when I worked in labs...PM me and I'll give you the recipe....after treating, use a resin primer such as Bondaprimer from Bondaglass-Voss...I'll run by the treating of the seams if you like...easy and VERY effective if you catch it in time...I've had no recurrence in 6years!
Cheers
Helen

I have used various phosphoric acid preparations with varying results. The best one I have found is Trustram, I currently have the hammerite one which I think is similar to Jenolite. I also have a big tub of something I got from the £ shop that needs diluting, haven't tried that one yet. I would love the recipe and any other tips. Funny you mention solder, when I firsed attacked the rust patch with the drill, the metal picked up and went into lumps, at which point I switched to a 4.5 inch grinder and a flap wheel. never seen that happen before, could have just been the thin edge ot the brush strands sintering I suppose.