Bongo Fury

Hey guys/girls.

I've had my first bongo MOT experience recently, failed on a shocker, ball joint and p/stg leak (from the seal at the top where the column enters the rack).

I've tried the lucas fluid that helps with leaks but to be fair i think i would need cement to stop this seal from leaking, it is p###ing out

I'm gonna give this a bash myself, can any1 tell me if this id doo-able with axle stands etc... also if the rack has to be removed or if there is enough room to replace the seal without removal???

Any help on this would be great?!

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... 6&start=15

This should help.

its doo able without jacking it up. and in place. but its easy to remove the rack to do it but you may have to do the tracking afterwards.
as a follow on from that thread posted i did mine. bought all the seal kit etc but it didnt last long as a fix and leaked again soon after.
better to go for a pro refurb or replace from a breaker, i replaced mine-----------------------------and now a year later this is leaking slightly . im wondering if fat alloys/tyres are putting a lot of stress on the components, ive gone back to the standard 195 on steelies as a test.

Absolutely great reply lads, really appreciate it. Doesn't get any more detailed than that!

I shall be stripping this 2nite, parts ordered 2day also. I'll try replacing the seal first to get it through the MOT then see how it goes from there.

I'll post when i've finished it to let you know how i got on, thanks again!!

Was told by a company that recon/build the racks, that the reason the top seal goes is cos water gets in there and it rusts the shaft which in turn grinds its way through the seal and that causes the leak and just replacing the seal is a temporary measure, strange that he'd say that as he wants the job of rebuilding them lol I've yet to see (touch wood!!) a replaced seal fail yet, hopefully they'll last a similar time to the original.

As Ady said its easier with the rack removed, but usually done with it in situ. And anything mopre than replacing the top or end seals usually ends in disaster cos i've yet to see an amateur rebuilt rack that didnt leak like the Titanic (yes including the 1 i tried to do )
Julian

Hi guys,

Finally got round to doing my repairs. Shocker and susp arm were no problem, apart from a few VERY tight bolts etc.

The seal kit for the rack was a different matter tho, was easy enough to replace thanks to all your help but it didn't cure the leak so i had to order a new rack. It has arrived today along with a couple of t/rod ends and a few litres of dexron 3.... Can anyone advise me if there is any special way of bleeding these systems or if it's just a case of filling it, working it, topping up, working it etc?????

its just a case of fill it and see. this is a self bleed jobbie, but be aware it doesnt always work well for some, it can take a while for the system to settle if emptied, and can be very knotchy and lumpy.
best to replace by putting a bolt or similar into the ends of the pipes when disconected,then replace the fluid in stages by draining/sucking the fluid out of the res then replacing with new, then run it , then drain/suck. if you take a pipe off when its running WATCH OUT.

there was a good pictorial on how to change the fluid by dandy but i cannot find it.

Hi Aldo,

To prime the system,fill with fluid,start engine,turn the steering full lock both ways a few times it should then be OK.Recheck fluid level,if you hear a rattling sound you need to do the full lock process again.

Cheers.

Thanks Guys,

Snappy reply as usual

I'll be fitting the new one 2nite so i'll let you know how i get on

Aldo wrote:Thanks Guys,

Snappy reply as usual

I'll be fitting the new one 2nite so i'll let you know how i get on

The pump produces in excess of 1200 PSI,be careful if you need to remove any components etc after the engine Has Been started,you can also jack up the front wheels and do the full lock with the engine off to start with.

Good luck.

New rack fitted last nite without a problem, thanks to all you guys help

Apart from every nut and bolt being solid i'm actually finding it quite enjoyable to work on the Bongo, plenty space etc so far (hope im not tempting fate)!!

Thanks again for all your help people