Bongo Fury

Because of cost i got my garage to replace both ball after failing MOT last year.

Went for MOT this year and failed because of to much play in ball joints again.
Not willing to be spending £80 every year on new ones i have decided to bite the bullet and fit Genuine complete Wishbones.

Can anyone help with the Correct Torque Setting for bolts & Nuts as the garage has requested them

Many Thanks

Live Every Day Like Its Your Last
One Day It Will Be

Hi corrour,

Do you have the part number and maker for the lower ball joints.

Cheers.

main balljoint nut---32-44 (3.2--4.5).
2 long bolts through the stut bottom----151-189.(15.3-19.3).
forward mounting bolt to chassis, 102-137. (10.4-14.0).
rear 2 mounting bolts to chassis, 79-117. (80-11.9).

thanks for that Ady.
I Have PM You.

The ones that have failed were from
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-BONGO-L ... 1c23df451a

autojap spares the guy has told me to send the failed ones back and he will look at replacing them.
Fitting complete wishbones tomorrow so i will return em n keep you posted

john

i must admit i would have gone for those myself.

I've fitted those ebay 1's before and never had any comebacks, makes me wonder how they're fitted, ie pressed or hammered in? in fact i'm prepping a car for mot today that had those very balljoints fitted 3 years ago and the pre-mot mentions nothing about them, either the joint or the boot, it does however mention the drop link boots, 4 years old that have splits, oh what a fun job changing out the boots is gonna be :0(

Julian

They were pressed in properly will post photos asap when i get a reply from seller.
The boots were so badly split.

After fitting new boots to drop links and thinking i was all that and a bit clever, i thought i'd try replacing the boot on a ball joint.......all i can say is good luck with that cos the replacement boots recommended dont fit as the lower fixing seems to be glued rather than a lip, and after trying about 5000 times i gave up and came to the conclusion what you save in cost, you'll lose in time, no problem if your working on your own car and have ages to spend on it, but not worth it otherwise, if you take your car to a garage and ask them to replace the boot, you'll get killed on cost, while the droplinks are relatively easy, the ball joint more than makes up for it! maybe find a supplier of original type boots for the ball joint, cos lip/retaining ring type doesnt work

Julian

i agree julian.
i got half a dozen replacement boots from my local factors, in plain bags so i dont know who made them, ive got a good bottom ball joint with a split boot so removed it.
the replacement boots were very slightly shorter in height, but just ok, the bottom seal was not very tight on the seat of the ball joint itself, so maybe a glueing job.
i was kinda hopeing that when its all assembled it will hold itself together, but maybe water will get in.
i think these may be ok to get you through a test etc, but for a long term fix best to try an source the gen mazda ball joint or oem quality part and boot.

like you say earlier this is going to be a bit of a nightmare both for you on a commercial level as you are going to have to charge quite a sum for replaceing a boot, or fit a poor quality part (not really an option). and for us who are going to have to pay lots for the replacement of several rubbers each mot time. .

Have returned joints for replacement will keep you all posted.
not going to accept boots as there is to much play in the joints

Fitted the autojap spares ball joint to my mazda, lasted less than a year as well, boot was not torn, fitted it myself. had to fit a complete arm from blueprint, the joint on the blueprint arm is trw so should last and has a 3 year warranty.

The supplier gave me a full refund. cant ask for more than that.
Full wisbones fitted n cant wait for the bash.

Northern Bongolow wrote: Wed Feb 29, 2012 3:24 pm main balljoint nut---32-44 (3.2--4.5).
2 long bolts through the stut bottom----151-189.(15.3-19.3).
forward mounting bolt to chassis, 102-137. (10.4-14.0).
rear 2 mounting bolts to chassis, 79-117. (80-11.9).

Thank you so much for your valuable advice. I am fitting new wishbones tomorrow and am happy to have read it
Forgive my ignorance. What units are those torque settings?

I would think N.m and kgf.m.

All metric Devil units to an old Imperial lag like me, so I just set them on the wrench.