Bongo Fury

I know this subject has been done to death but I've searched the archives and can't get a definitive answer. Last night my driver's door switch started to play up. I dismantled it and the rocker for the driver's window is worn and the whole thing is gunked up with dirt and fluff. Anyway, a good spray with contact cleaner and good clean and working from the circuit board I can activate the drivers window using the sliding contact. If I short out the 2 contacts that equate to the 'On' switch, using the passenger sliding contact I can operate the passenger window. However, no matter if the 'On' switch is shorted or not the switch on the passenger door will not work. Prior to this I've had no trouble whatsoever with the passenger side switch. I've also removed and cleaned that switch but all looks ok and no chaffed wires. Fuse 14 is ok BTW.


So could someone tell me with a working system, what position the isolating switch on the driver's side is set to for both the passenger side switch and driver side switch to for both to be able to operate the passenger window?

Also any idea why my passenger side switch has stopped working? It's too much of a coincidence for both to fail at the same time. I know the obvious answer would be to buy a new switch but both new and used prices are so ridiculous!

If anyone could throw a bit of light on this I would be very grateful.

Sorry, I now realise that sounds daft. What I should have asked was - can someone verify that with the isolator switch set to on, can both driver and passenger door switches operate the passenger window? I'm sure the answer should be yes but I've not had the Bongo long and can't say as I've ever checked.

I do wish I had investigated this before hitting the keyboard. Apologies for the previous posts, I'm not babbling - honest.

My problem is this. I've fixed an intermittent fault with the driver's side window switch. During my deliberations I have somehow stopped the passenger side switch from working. I've taken the switch out but it appears to be purely mechanical and appears to work ok. There are no obvious cuts in the wires coming through the door. Apparently there is just the one fuse that serves both door switches. I can operate the passenger window from the drivers switch so power etc appears to be getting through. So any ideas what could be wrong? Is it possible to connect two of the wires from the connecting block to make the circuit and hence prove the switch? If so which ones?

Just a quick thought -you did replace the spring and ball bearing under the rocker in the drivers side switch when you were messing with it ? My passenger window switch will not work unless the drivers side rocker is switched to "on".

Ah - so where exactly does the spring and ball bearing go? I knew it had to be something to do with that switch but couldn't work out where it went. In the end I permanently made the connection so it is on without using the switch, if you see what I mean. I don't really need to isolate the passenger switch anyway. I finally made everything work by repeatedly cleaning both switches with contact cleaner. I have to say after years of owning Hondas and Toyotas, I'm not terribly impressed with the build quality of much of the Mazda components on both the Bongo and wife's 323.