Bongo Fury

I'm doing the starter solenoid rebuild this weekend, got the repair kit off ebay.
Wish me luck!

Easy peasy you'll be fine, may be worth a squirt of penetrating oil on the bolts tonight ready for the morrow just in case, 1 or 2 have had trouble getting them off, but it's usually pretty easy.

missfixit70 wrote:Easy peasy you'll be fine, may be worth a squirt of penetrating oil on the bolts tonight ready for the morrow just in case, 1 or 2 have had trouble getting them off, but it's usually pretty easy.

Cheers, I sprayed some ACF50 on them last Sunday so hopefully it will have done the trick. And on the air intake hose screws too!

its a simple job I found it a little fiddly to get the motor out other than that no problems at all

Little video here from Ozric!!
May help!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pnySma88gY

Dabs

Dabs wrote:Little video here from Ozric!!
May help!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pnySma88gY

Dabs

Cheers, I've watched that a couple of times, it's very good. Hope I can get the battery disconnected

Well it's done and it was easy! The starter motor even sounds faster!

Some points


make sure you keep the contacts flat while tightening as they want to move with the bolts. they are tight on the bolts compared to the originals, in fact the earth one was an interference fit and
i used the vice although grips would do it easily.

it is easier to just disconnect the engine end of the air intake and unclip the filter box top and take the filter out of the way.

If you do this block the air intake at the bottom so you can't drop a screwdriver or something down there. Don't ask how I know this.









make sure you block the air intake

Can't edit above, should read positive, not earth.

Couple of pics:

Hi

Planning to do this sometime this week. Are the 3 bolts you unscrew to remove the starter all to the left of the motor behind the ATF dip stick tube. Are these best accessed from the service hatch or from under the van?

Graeme

Watch the youtube video linked to earlier in the thread, it shows you what to do in just a few minutes

Thanks for that

It looks like I will have to remove the drivers seat/hatch due to not being able to tip far enough back because of the side conversion. Any ideas on removing the seat/hatch. How many bolts and how easy is this to do?

Easy enough to do - http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html
Or flip the back of the seat forward, slide the seat as far forward as you can once past the steering wheel, & either rest on the steering wheel, tie/bungee it up to one of the grab handles or prop it up with a bit of wood or something.

5 bolts hold the seat on, 2 at the frontof the slider, 2 rear and the seatbelt, removing the seat is a 2 min job and the hatch will go up plenty then.

Don't forget though there is an electric wire connected to the underside of the seat that needs disconnecting as you lift it out

westonwarrior wrote:5 bolts hold the seat on, 2 at the frontof the slider, 2 rear and the seatbelt, removing the seat is a 2 min job and the hatch will go up plenty then.

Don't forget though there is an electric wire connected to the underside of the seat that needs disconnecting as you lift it out

It might also be possible to do it through the rear access panel, would give good access to the three main bolts, the electrical connections could be done form underneath if necessary, in fact the whole job probably could be done that way. Either way the air intake could stay in place. Not sure how much the bellypan would get in the way as mine got forgotten by the garage when I had the head job ,getting it back tomorrow.