Bongo Fury

Hi Can amnybody tell me if it is OK to Close and Open the rear Side Blinds Manually pulling them Down and pushing them up Could this Damage the Motors
Thanks Andy.

Provided you don't try to push to hard, just let them go at there own rate I see no reason why any harm should be done.

No problems....you won't hurt them

Thanks for replies. Don't understand why the rear switches are not permanent LIVE so as not requiring Ignition to be switched before rear switches are powered Is there an easy Mod for this cant imagine a permanent LIVE feed to the rear Blind Switches would be a problem ... or would it

easy enough to do along with the ciggy sockets ets....just make the top row of the fusebox perm live

Its not a major problem to alter. In fact if you fit a L/B then these and the radio/lights etc. are the first to be moved.
Its quite possibly to modify the fuse block, just a little fiddly as the top row are connected Bus-Bar style and hence the need to isolate the two fuses first, or another approach is to remove the two fuses and fit them into a separate fuse block which is then reconnected to the lower connector of the fuse block, the live coming from the un-switched 12 volt line, this is how the Willinton L/B kit does it.

Can someone explain in easy to understand lingo how to actually wire up the blinds to operate from the leisure battery without having the ignition on?
Also the AFT?
Thanks
Mick

You wouldn't want to have the AFT working without the engine running...soon drain the battery and the AFT needs max volts

Mickymouse wrote:Can someone explain in easy to understand lingo how to actually wire up the blinds to operate from the leisure battery without having the ignition on?
Also the AFT?

The trouble is we don't know how your L/B is wired up so its impossible to give simple instructions on something we haven't seen! Hence why the Willinton kit is recommended, it might be worth contacting him to ask if he could supply just the fuse block and then its a case of move the fuses, and connect the fuse block into your own L/B set-up, and then use the standard wiring with the kit to reconnect the internal fuse block.

As Haydn says the AFT is not viable to run from L/B alone really, also it has its own relay/electronics which has to be powered as well which adds to the complexity.

easy enough to do along with the ciggy sockets ets....just make the top row of the fusebox perm live

How,in laymens terms,can I do this from the leisure battery?

Many thanks

Mick

Mickymouse wrote: How,in laymens terms,can I do this from the leisure battery?

Many thanks

Mick

Have a look at Pippin's instructions here - it's a lot easier than it sounds

Look at the fuse board by the drivers right knee.
Remove the fixing screws and wiggle it forwards so that the rear is visible.

Counting from top left to right the numbering goes 1 to 8.

Fuses 1 to 5 are fed by a thick white/red from fuse BTN under the bonnet, which is always live.
(the fuse, silly, not the bonnet!)

Fuses 6,7,8 are fed only when the ignition is on via the thick red/black wire.
6&7 are curtains L&R, 8 is cigarlighter & mirrors.

1] If you do not have a secondary battery:

You can either select just the cigarlighter/mirrors or probably easier and handier select those and the curtains so that you can operate them without the ignition on.

Cut the thick red/black wire going in a couple of inches from the rear of the fuseholder for 6,7,8. Insulate the end that comes out of the loom.
Use a short length of similarly sized wire to extend the end going into 6,7,8 and tap it into the thick white/red that feeds fuses 1-5.

If you want to select just fuse 8 for the cigarlighter/mirrors then you would have to identify the blue wire coming out of fuse 8, cut that and insulate the end coming out of the fuse 8. The blue wire going into the loom would then need an in-line 15A fuse fitting and then tapping onto the aforementioned thick white/red that feeds fuses 1-5.

2] If you have a secondary battery you may wish to feed things from that rather than from the engine battery.

The instructions above are modified only by disregarding tapping anything into the aforementioned thick white/red that feeds fuses 1-5.
Instead you would need to connect it/them into an appropriately fused wire connected to the secondary battery.

While you are at it you could also feed all the internal vehicle lighting from that source as well.
To do so, cut the blue/red wire coming out of fuse 1 and insulate the end coming out of the fuse. Fit an appropriate 10A inline fuseholder to the end disappearing into the loom and connect it to the secondary battery.