Bongo Fury

Well just replaced the top seal on the powered steering as it was leaking and the third MOT is due.

I did it all from the top as in under the bonnet. Took the air inlet pipe off, undid the two 12mm bolts holding the universal joint from the steering column to the rack. Knocked the joint up and it then came off so put it out of the way. Dust cover off then how to get the old seal out. There is a circlip holding it in so oh bugger don’t have any circlip pliers , well some long nose pliers managed to get it out. Now the seal!!!! With the help of a small bladed screwdriver managed to lever it out. Pushed the new one in (make sure all the gubbings below is well seated first by pushing down with a blunt screwdriver. Located the new seal with a tap of a hammer on a long reach socket. Refitted the circlip, the dust seal and universal joint and Bob’s you uncle job done in less than an hour.
Just got to reset the steering wheel as it’s upside down when going in a straight line

maxheadroom wrote:Well just replaced the top seal on the powered steering as it was leaking and the third MOT is due.

I did it all from the top as in under the bonnet. Took the air inlet pipe off, undid the two 12mm bolts holding the universal joint from the steering column to the rack. Knocked the joint up and it then came off so put it out of the way. Dust cover off then how to get the old seal out. There is a circlip holding it in so oh bugger don’t have any circlip pliers , well some long nose pliers managed to get it out. Now the seal!!!! With the help of a small bladed screwdriver managed to lever it out. Pushed the new one in (make sure all the gubbings below is well seated first by pushing down with a blunt screwdriver. Located the new seal with a tap of a hammer on a long reach socket. Refitted the circlip, the dust seal and universal joint and Bob’s you uncle job done in less than an hour.
Just got to reset the steering wheel as it’s upside down when going in a straight line

You clever old codger

There's only one way to settle this....

Factsheet!!!!!!!!!

Nice one MH , I was going to try & do it from underneath, but if my arms are long enough, that sounds easier, report back in a couple of weeks to confirm it's done the job That's if you're not still driving round in circles somehere

max
where did you source the new one please i need to do mine.
regards

Northern Bongolow wrote:max
where did you source the new one please i need to do mine.
regards

off eBay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAZDA-BONGO-STEER ... 5886d92ee5

you only need the one seal but it does contain a new circlip also.

Note to anyone carrying or intendind to carry out this job, when removing the seal BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to damage the wall of the seal seat when u push the screw driver in to lever the old seal out, or you will only get a partial seal and be doing this job again in the near future!! stupid as it sounds ahve seen this done several times and usually ends up with dremel n fine stone to take the gouges out. If you run your rack dry also beware of 'notchiness' or slight resistance spots which is only resolved with rack replacement so keep an eye on those levels. Not trying to put anyone off, just offer some advice
julian

are there any issues with the preasure in the system when removing the seal,i would also like to replace the fluid with fresh,anyone got any what not to do's please.

I have changed the top seal by this method, but I was worried about damaging the sealing surfaces when removing the top seal.

What I did was to carefully drill a 3mm hole through the metal part of the seal, (use the replacement seal to work out where to do this), making sure that the drill was going to go where it should have.

I then screwed in a small woodscrew which I used to prise out the old seal, then cleaned up the recess and using plenty of oil on the new seal, tapped it into position.

munroman wrote:I have changed the top seal by this method, but I was worried about damaging the sealing surfaces when removing the top seal.

What I did was to carefully drill a 3mm hole through the metal part of the seal, (use the replacement seal to work out where to do this), making sure that the drill was going to go where it should have.

I then screwed in a small woodscrew which I used to prise out the old seal, then cleaned up the recess and using plenty of oil on the new seal, tapped it into position.

Sounds like a good tip unless Julian at 321away thinks otherwise.

I took a peek at the BF factsheet on steering racks and it said:

In order to repair a leaking steering rack, it is necessary to remove the whole unit. The vehicle will need to be up on a ramp and supported, as you will need to remove the front wheels.

Is this true? This thread suggests some work can be done in situ. Also, would it be worth updating the factsheet with Julians advice and your tip on removal? (will you email Ian or should I? )

the rack seal can be changed in situ, its a bit fiddly but can be done, only if your changing the rack do the wheels normally come off? that said i have seen them changed with the wheels on, by undoing the track rod ends.but they are a pain to get the rack out!!

without the engine running there is very little pressure in the system,

and drilling the hole through the seal is a good idea as it allows purchase without going near the seal wall, but there is another seal about 8mm below the outer seal so dont drill too far.

Julian

321Away wrote:Note to anyone carrying or intendind to carry out this job, when removing the seal BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to damage the wall of the seal seat when u push the screw driver in to lever the old seal out, or you will only get a partial seal and be doing this job again in the near future!! stupid as it sounds ahve seen this done several times and usually ends up with dremel n fine stone to take the gouges out. If you run your rack dry also beware of 'notchiness' or slight resistance spots which is only resolved with rack replacement so keep an eye on those levels. Not trying to put anyone off, just offer some advice
julian

well said that man

I did only pick at the inner seal and managed to get the small screwdriver in only a little and flicked it upwards going around the seal until it started to lift. you don't want to be too hand fisted

I do like the idea of drilling but do have come reservations of swarf etc getting into the fluid but I'm sure if your careful it should bo OK

According to the drawing, & by the looks of it that "seal" below the pinion seal is actually a bearing ring, there are no rubber seal type edges, it's just a free spinning hard plastic/nylon ring, but you still need to be careful not to drill through it

32-115 -"bearing, st. gear" on here, http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsm ... no=.html#3

There's only one way to settle this.....

Factsheet update!!!

mikeonb4c wrote:There's only one way to settle this.....

Factsheet update!!!

or should that read "FightSheet"

thanks for all the info and tips,hold tight im going in,