Bongo Fury

Followed all the destructions and all is wired up right.
The book says that when getting up to opersting speed the LED on the control module will flash once per second, it aint doing that.
I did snip the black loop.
The only thing i don't trust are those scotchloks. Would it be that they are not connecting at the speed sensor wire?

Do you have a meter so you can test either side of the connection and see if its OK ?
I must admit unless you use exactly the right size wires for the scotchlok then its almost guaranteed to fail.

Agree with Geoff, scotchlocks are pants.
I took the speedo panel out & traced where the speed sensing wire went into the board & followed it down, there was a handy screw terminal jobby there to fix to, could be SP+ from memory, but it's easy enough to check, no scotchblock necessary then

Will all have to wait till Thursday, i am on days all week.
Will get the tester out.

Most likely to be the scotchlocks.

However - I recently tried some LED brake bulbs. I decided that they were pretty pants, and not as bright as real bulbs so I put the normal ones back in. Whilst I had the LED ones in, my CC didn't work. Against my better judgement, i had used a scotchlock on the speed wore, so I replaced it with a real soldered joint. This didn't fix it, so I thought I had a duff CC unit. About a week after I had changed my bulbs back, I tried the CC out of curiosity, low & behold it worked.

I have not got round to putting the LEDs back in to confirm that they stop the CC working, but it sort of makes sense to me. The CC has a connection to both sides of the brake pedal switch, so could in theory be sending a low current through the brake lights to make sure that the wiring is still connected - and with LEDs this current wouldn't flow.

Just something else to consider - but my money is still on the scotchlocks.

dave_aber wrote:Most likely to be the scotchlocks.

However - I recently tried some LED brake bulbs. I decided that they were pretty pants, and not as bright as real bulbs so I put the normal ones back in. Whilst I had the LED ones in, my CC didn't work. Against my better judgement, i had used a scotchlock on the speed wore, so I replaced it with a real soldered joint. This didn't fix it, so I thought I had a duff CC unit. About a week after I had changed my bulbs back, I tried the CC out of curiosity, low & behold it worked.

I have not got round to putting the LEDs back in to confirm that they stop the CC working, but it sort of makes sense to me. The CC has a connection to both sides of the brake pedal switch, so could in theory be sending a low current through the brake lights to make sure that the wiring is still connected - and with LEDs this current wouldn't flow.

Just something else to consider - but my money is still on the scotchlocks.

I did read in the manual that there are failsafes if the current changes in any of the circuits. I would say the reduction in current from the LED's did it ok

There are also two blue/white wires behind the dash, you need to make certain you've connected to the speedo one.

It's obvious now you know that.

Bob wrote:There are also two blue/white wires behind the dash, you need to make certain you've connected to the speedo one.

It's obvious now you know that.

I have connected to the one that the chip is attached to.
Yellow wire on the chip is attached to the blue/white

My speedo's not chipped, wonder if we could be looking in the right area, assuming all connections are good?

Also, does the 'Diagnostic Programme' work?

Bob wrote:Also, does the 'Diagnostic Programme' work?

Aint tried it yet. Got all done and out for a test drive and was knackered by then so locked up and went for a beer.

was knackered by then so locked up and went for a beer.

If you've got a speedo chip (as I had when I originally wrote those notes), then take the feed from the gearbox side (input) rather than the speedo side (output). I will work with either, but I wanted the higher number of pulses which means you can engage the CC at at lower speed. I've since changed my speedo to one from a 626 so no longer have the chip installed.

ScotchLoks can be troublesome, so soldered joints (done properly) are a better solution. Having said that, I've used ScotchLoks for many projects over the years & never had any dodgy connections.

Ok so here it is.
Ran the tests as in the book and found that all wires were connected ok(through the test)
I knew that there was a problem with the speed sensor wire so i got my meter out and sure enough it was not connecting through the scotchlock. I crimped that and will be able to test thet when i take her out and get up to speed. Tested the Wire to the brake switch and found the reverse of what i suspected. When the meter(and i am no expert like) was on the circuit testing beeper, it was sounding when the brake was not pressed and going off when the brake was pressed. I earthed the meter's other probe to the key.
The other wire to the brake switch, the 12V+ was ok too.
When doing test 2, putting the unit in diagnostic mode. Supposedly when pressing SET the revs go up and pressing reset, they go down. NOTHING! There is a quiet clunking noise from the vacuum servo but the cable don't move. The cable is free enough, i was able to move it in and out before i fitted the unit in and checked it could move after fitting the ends of the cable.
Anybody like to tell me what i suspect, The servo is knackered, or there is a vacuum problem. Will it work if i suck on the pipe?

Could be it's not getting enough vacuum, where did you connect the vacuum pipe?