Bongo Fury

Hi guys, i'm awaiting delivery of front and rear drop links. could anyone please advise if any Jacking of the Bongo is required?

phoenixroxy wrote:Hi guys, i'm awaiting delivery of front and rear drop links. could anyone please advise if any Jacking of the Bongo is required?

Can't remember if there's a factsheet in the members area but lots of old advice on here if you search. The back needs to be level as viewed from behind, and with suspension under normal load (this means in practice it is best to put the rear axle on axle stands). The reason is that if the bushed ends are tightened up with suspension unloaded (as when one wheel is jacked) then when you put the suspension back under normal load, the bush is left with a twisting load on it, shortening its life. Fronts aren't a problem as they are ball joint based - I think you might be able to do those by just jacking and removing the wheel (possibly without even removing the wheel, though access would be trickier).

I think it is worth doing antiroll bar bushes at the same time (including new u-brackets as they fatigue and break with age) so you know you should have nice new clunk free stuff for some time (with luck - some peeps front droplinks haven't been lasting as long as they should).

This might help............. http://translate.googleusercontent.com/ ... tmXdX6rOYA

phoenixroxy wrote:Hi guys, i'm awaiting delivery of front and rear drop links. could anyone please advise if any Jacking of the Bongo is required?

The bushes and links are easiest to swap when the suspension is roughly as it is sitting on it's wheels. So, if you've two jacks you can lift under the front wishbone until the wheel is clear (to remove), and then use light pressure from the second jack under the lower ball joint to take the stress off the drop link (which is not critical on the front link, since the fitting at each is moveable).

I did the front roll bar bushes with the car on it's wheels (used some ramps to gain a little working space underneath). (due to incorrect parts received, doh!, I only had one new bush, so I 'shimmed' the other bush with a slice of thin rubber).

Nothing looked too badly worn, but their replacement has solved the slight clunk at low speeds over rough surfaces.



Gareth.

I managed to replace the rear drop links, bushes and bracket whilst the Bongo was on the ground.

Thanks a lot for the replys, sounds like its pretty straight forward, cant wait to feel the results!

i used ramps to do the fronts and managed to do the rears with the wheels on the ground,no jacking required as phil collins once said the difference it makes is brill,no more clunking and knocking

phoenixroxy wrote:Thanks a lot for the replys, sounds like its pretty straight forward,

In theory, but bolts can be seized tight with rust. A good spray with suitable agent (plusgas or whatever) a day or so before you start the job and again when you do, is a good idea. Also, a six sided socket (for best grip without slip) and an extension bar are highly recommended. Some peeps have ended up having to grind nuts off with an angle grinder

With luck, none of this will happen, but best to be prepared. Good luck.

cheers for the advice mike. im a maintenance engineer to trade so am pretty well prepared its always good to hear of other peoples trials and errors before tackling anything yourself though!

phoenixroxy wrote:cheers for the advice mike. im a maintenance engineer to trade so am pretty well prepared its always good to hear of other peoples trials and errors before tackling anything yourself though!

should be a walk in the park for you then

mikeonb4c wrote: A good spray with suitable agent (plusgas or whatever)

I haven't seen Plusgas for ages...... can you still get it? ..... the last can I got was about 10 years ago from an Agricultural engineers....

mikexgough wrote:

mikeonb4c wrote: A good spray with suitable agent (plusgas or whatever)

I haven't seen Plusgas for ages...... can you still get it? ..... the last can I got was about 10 years ago from an Agricultural engineers....

Got some in Trago Mills last year.

mikeonb4c wrote:

phoenixroxy wrote:cheers for the advice mike. im a maintenance engineer to trade so am pretty well prepared its always good to hear of other peoples trials and errors before tackling anything yourself though!

should be a walk in the park for you then

Even easier for me....got her indoors to do it.................................

The Great Pretender wrote:

mikeonb4c wrote:

phoenixroxy wrote:cheers for the advice mike. im a maintenance engineer to trade so am pretty well prepared its always good to hear of other peoples trials and errors before tackling anything yourself though!

should be a walk in the park for you then

Even easier for me....got her indoors to do it.................................

Does she change 'em while you wait?.......

A few things to bear in mind...

If you don't have both axle wheels level, then the anti-roll bar will be in torsion - so watch out when you try and release the drop link...

If you do jack up the side you are working on, then you should try and ensure that both sides are as 'balanced' as possible - I had one jack doing the lifting and supporting, and then placed a second jack under the bottom suspension joint and jacked it up until the A-R bar looked level and unstressed.

Take care NOT to place any jack anywhere on the actual lower wishbone section, only at the very end where the wheel axle joint is; there's a risk of damaging the quite-delicate wishbone 'box' section (it isn't designed to take much bending force) if you place a jack mid-way.

The drop-link nuts will be pretty tight. As mentioned above, give them a good soaking with release oil a few days before the job. Then place your socket/ring spanner on the nut and position the spanner end where you can aim a good blow on it with a club hammer! It WILL need this kind of 'percussion' to break the seal; you can try just pulling on the end with all your might - but it won't do any good! A cracking thump is what's needed! (er, make sure you are thumping it the correct way...)

Once cracked free, you'll be surprised at how easily they undo. You should find a spanner 'flat' on the drop link joint so's you can prevent the ball from rotating as you undo the nut; it's on the other side to the nut - just push the rubber joint bellow aside (doesn't matter it you damage it...) and slip an open-ended spanner on.

Finally, take care when finally removing the nut; watch to see if the A-R bar is still under torsion - it should be pretty obvious at this point if the drop-link is being 'pulled'.