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Nipping wheel arch rust in the bud.......I hope :-)

Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 10:43 pm
by mikeonb4c
Over the weekend I:

Removed the cubby holes from the rear panels so I could see the crevice where inner and outer rear wings join. I could see that although my waxoyl treater had been in there and done their best, the spray might not have penetrated right into the crevice, leaving a chance that rust could still get going in there. I made up a dispenser out of an old ketchup bottle and a straw, put some Kurust in - and as best I could - dribbled it generously along as much of the crevice as I could. The theory was that being curve, and since there should be a wicking action into any rust, and along the seam, as the liquid falls down either side of the curve, then tehre's a good chance it will get to the bits that matter. I left it to do its thing for a day. I was pleased to notice Kurust dribbling from the rear of the outer wing, suggesting it had flowed back along the seam/crevice.

Next day I attempted to finish off the rustproofing by trying to use the spray on waxoyl that cost me £8 in Halfrauds. Useless as it isn't liquid (despite what it says on the can) and doesn't therefore hit the crevice line where inner and outer wings join, let alone run/wick along it. I resorted to something I've heard old timers swear by, and dripped lots of 5/30 engine oil along the crevice line so it could run down the line and saturate it too I hope. It'll be interesting to see if it works, and if the car smells of engine oil on hot days (hope not [-o< )

Thought I'd share that with you....just in case. We'll have to wait and see how well it works. I have minimal rust at present, but one or two minor rashes appearing. The job itself though is v. easy. Just make sure you protect the upholstery etc. in case you dribble some where you shouldn't - its still quite awkward trying to get your dribbler into such a confined space and apply the dribble accurately (at this point I have to stop writing as I'm starting to double up with laughter) :lol: :lol: :lol:

PS - If you have a proper applicator/nozzle etc. you could probably get further in and apply the stuff more accurately.

Re: Nipping wheel arch rust in the bud.......I hope :-)

Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:11 pm
by dobby
Hi Mike

I did similar with Dinitrol a few years back - as described in a previous post.

It didn't stop the rust that appeared this year but I bet it slowed it down.

I was tempted with using oil but didn't try it.

Hope you've caught just in time.

Graham

Re: Nipping wheel arch rust in the bud.......I hope :-)

Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:54 pm
by mikeonb4c
dobby wrote:Hi Mike

I did similar with Dinitrol a few years back - as described in a previous post.

It didn't stop the rust that appeared this year but I bet it slowed it down.

I was tempted with using oil but didn't try it.

Hope you've caught just in time.

Graham
Yup, fingers crossed - time will tell. My rust is minimal at present so its a good time to catch it. And I wanted very free flowing liquids so they could get right in there as its v. difficult to get spray or brushing into a crevice like that - we'll see.

Re: Nipping wheel arch rust in the bud.......I hope :-)

Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 3:22 pm
by ronhud
Hi Mike - thanks for posting this diy tip for rear arch rust. I've got a bit appearing on the outside and your method is something I can attempt rather than just hopefully looking the other way!

I havent been on the forum for some time - my Freda has been running ok UNTIL about 2 weeks ago it wouldnt start. I did the usual, change the fuel filter and clean the banjo but completely no go. Eventually had it trailored to wonderful Wheelquick and they fixed it in a couple of days. Seized up fuel pump so they replaced that and the injectors ( and cleaned so it looks better than anytime since I bought it). I have to decide now whether this was down to using my home made biodiesel. Until this event it had been running ok, I used about 1000 ltrs of bio as well as some petro diesel over the last year and I reckon that saved me about £800. It may be that the pump was going to go anyway but I still need to think hard about it. Coincidental with this event my waste oil suplier had his brasserie taken over by another organisation who just didnt want to mess with me collecting their oil so it looks as though fate may have taken a hand in my decision.

I am very reluctant to change my Freda for a small car to gain better mpg, it is such a versatile vehicle. My hobby is painting and it's a gem for that, today I collected a large planchest from a local Freecyle user, my son and his family have used it, I go touring on my own in it and when my son goes camping/sailing in the Lakes I can go along in the Freda which becomes the kitchen wagon for everyone.

Ron

Re: Nipping wheel arch rust in the bud.......I hope :-)

Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 6:13 pm
by dobby
I know how you feel Ron, used the bongo and trailer this weekend to to make loads of trips to the Tip and to collect loft insulation from wickes. Met a chap at the tip who has kept his bongo just for lugging stuff around. He's owned it since 2001!.

Re: Nipping wheel arch rust in the bud.......I hope :-)

Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:10 am
by mikeonb4c
ronhud wrote:Hi Mike - thanks for posting this diy tip for rear arch rust. I've got a bit appearing on the outside and your method is something I can attempt rather than just hopefully looking the other way!

I havent been on the forum for some time - my Freda has been running ok UNTIL about 2 weeks ago it wouldnt start. I did the usual, change the fuel filter and clean the banjo but completely no go. Eventually had it trailored to wonderful Wheelquick and they fixed it in a couple of days. Seized up fuel pump so they replaced that and the injectors ( and cleaned so it looks better than anytime since I bought it). I have to decide now whether this was down to using my home made biodiesel. Until this event it had been running ok, I used about 1000 ltrs of bio as well as some petro diesel over the last year and I reckon that saved me about £800. It may be that the pump was going to go anyway but I still need to think hard about it. Coincidental with this event my waste oil suplier had his brasserie taken over by another organisation who just didnt want to mess with me collecting their oil so it looks as though fate may have taken a hand in my decision.

I am very reluctant to change my Freda for a small car to gain better mpg, it is such a versatile vehicle. My hobby is painting and it's a gem for that, today I collected a large planchest from a local Freecyle user, my son and his family have used it, I go touring on my own in it and when my son goes camping/sailing in the Lakes I can go along in the Freda which becomes the kitchen wagon for everyone.

Ron
Great to hear from you Ron. I was thinking about you just today and wondering how you were - hadn't heard anything from you in such a long time.

I still haven't done my coolant change :oops: and I'm nearly up to 3 years since I changed it :oops: so it is now top of the list. Don't fancy the panic of last time doing it on my own (Mike at Wheelquick agreed you should always do it with 2 people, one topping up the header tank) so am hoping to apprentice my son Will to help me with it. [-o<

The cost of fuel is a b*gger, as life without a Bongo just won't be the same. I suppose if I had to move to something economical I might look at a Kangoo or somesuch, but a Bongo they ain't [-X

If you're by this way, drop in for a cup of tea. If I'm past your way maybe I can do likewise.

Mike 8)

Re: Nipping wheel arch rust in the bud.......I hope :-)

Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 4:34 am
by johnzbenson
A handy tip for inspections of small crevices for rust etc is to use a camera phone and mini torch- especially when the images are transfered to a computer.
As for Rust proofing/undersealing I buy the cheap cans of Galvanising spray from Screwfix (about £3.50 per 500ml spray can) and reapply very couple of months-its worked well for the last three cumbrian winters