Bongo Fury

Hi people got a on going problem changed the rear droplink's 1 month ago because old one's where perished looked at the new one's lastweek and they was splitting so got onto auto people had them off they said oh never had this before we will send you out new one's so fitted new one's and just checked them to find them splitting''''' one thing that i can see is that the anti roll bar is really under alot of strain as in hard to jack it up to meet new link's i think this is normal? anyone had this problem? cheers oh just seperate to that i need to get another key fob for my bongo how do i go about this? many thanks barry.

Are the droplinks fitted in the right position? there was someone a while back who'd had them fitted on the wrong side of the ARB, I'll try & find the thread.

fitted the same way as one's i took off i think in line and straight as other's was

Here's the thread just in case - http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... nk#p345508

Are you doing them with both sides level & still under load? Jack the axle up rather than the body, or use ramps, otherwise you will be taking the load off them, fitting them under strain, tightening them up, then putting the weight back on them, which will probably destroy them. This way you should literally be able to slide the old ones off & slide the new ones on (from memory)

Im jacking up off rear jacking point's then jacking up ARB to meet then tightening up bolts lowering ARB then back on its wheel's all done on level. i have kept an eye on them and it's took a week for them to start to break down kirsty.

I think that's where your problem is then, if they're breaking down after a month, never heard of the rears going that quick unless they weren't fitted right. They need to be fitted with the car level & under normal load, sounds like you're doing one side at a time with no load on.

Hi kirsty just looked at the pic's on that link and im fitting them the right way around but not as you said so i will order some more and try it your way see if that work's cheers kirsty

Make sure the studs they fit onto are clean & a little smear of washing up liquid or water based lube wouldn't go amiss either.

Will do exactly that kirsty nice one will post reply on progress.

Yes, you need the car on axle stands so weight of car is on the suspension i.e. normal load (or on ramps as it achieves a similar result - I did mine 2nd time round like that, only needed 2nd time round as I'd not replaced u-clamps 1st time round and they failed with metal fatigue as Kirsty has advised in the past, so change them along with bushes)). I sometimes wonder if it wouldn't do any harm to slip some suitable rubber friendly lubricant in the inside sleeve in case it allows 'creep' even after tightened and so allows bushes to settle. Think I used vaseline on mine (and yes I know its petroleum jelly but hey!)

Sounds like the supplier has been very decent offering replacements

Thinking about it, ignore the water based lube bit It's got a metal ferroule in the middle I think?

cheers for that will do what you both have said top team

missfixit70 wrote:Thinking about it, ignore the water based lube bit It's got a metal ferroule in the middle I think?

Silly me - I've drifted off (thread as usual) to anti rollbar bushes

Axle stand / ramps advice holds true for all of them of course, and frankly I'd do all of them at the same time if I was doing them, for max improvement in ride quietness and because their in-service life seems similar, wouldn't you say Kirsty?

As you say Mike, probably as well to replace the ARB bushes & brackets too if you haven't already,for the sake of £20 or so for the bits, while it's in the air & you're underneath with the tools, you know it's done then
Give the nuts a good soak with plusgas or penetrating oil the day before & again make sure the bar is clean with no horrible rusty bits & now you can use your water based lube - not petroleum based Mike

Gonna change all bushe's ect ordeing all 2moro see if tha cure's all thank's