Team Muz Highlands & Islands Tour 2009
Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:25 pm

Last year we went to five 24-hour sportscar races, at the Nürburgring, Le Mans, Spa-Francorchamps, Zolder and Silverstone. This year we decided to take things a little more steady and embarked on a three-week tour of the Scottish Highlands & Islands. This has been at the planning stage for months, with places being added to the itinerary all the time, even up to less than a week before the ‘off’, I’m sure I’m on Caledonian MacBrayne’s speed-dial due to the number of times I’ve amended the ferry bookings


There are some fascinating historical sites going way back between 2,000 and 3,000BC, and plenty for the kids as well, plus the Outer Hebrides was where I took Mrs Muz on our honeymoon

We saw a total of 58 other Bongos on our travels, we received some enthusiastic waves from some and some blank looks from others – if any of you are reading this – “Hello!”

We spent 20 days and 19 nights á la Bongo, and gradually became immersed in the wild-camping life. Our cost for the campsites etc turned out to be this:
Week 1 £4.61 per night per person
Week 2 £1.03 per night per person
Week 3 Nil

The Bongo proved to be the ideal assault vehicle yet again, just big enough for our needs as a family yet small enough to get onto the ferries as a standard car, and with the 4WD, onto some excellent camping spots. 2,300 miles



As you might expect, we took photos – lots of them




Gretna Green Old Blacksmith’s Shop, scene of many a marriage since 1753.

Falkirk Wheel – the only rotating boat-lift of its kind in the world, which lifts boats 24 metres from the Forth & Clyde canal to the Union canal.

Falkirk Wheel from above

Antonine Wall – the most northern point of the Roman Empire. Only half as long as Hadrian’s Wall and not so visibly impressive....

....but this was as far north as the Romans got


Actually they did get further than this, there are archaeological sites at Braco, Clathy and Kirkton (all in Perth & Kinross) but for whatever reason the Romans retreated to the Antonine Wall and called anything north of this line Caledonia


Antonine wall defensive pits (lilia) which would have contained sharpened stakes and been concealed by brushwood.

Stirling castle – like Edinburgh castle but without the tourists.


Fortingall parish church, dedicated to Coeddi, Bishop of Iona

Fortingall yew, at between 3,000 and 9,000 years old the oldest living thing in Europe which came as something of a surprise to me, I had always presumed that honour went to the mother-in-law


Castle Menzies near Aberfeldy

Scottish traffic jam


Pitlochry fish-ladder, a 310-metre salmon ladder where diadromous fish can be viewed swimming from weir to weir within the ladder


End of day 1


Blairgowrie campsite but notice the lack of wind & rain


Meikleour Beech Hedge near Blairgowrie has been in the Guinness Book of Records as the ‘World’s largest/tallest Hedge’ since 1966. It stands some 120 feet tall at its highest point and runs for 580 yards in length. The hedge is cut every ten years taking 4 men approximately 6 weeks. It was planted in the autumn of 1745


Glamis castle gates

Glamis castle, Angus

Arbroath Abbey

Auchmithie, original home of the Arbroath Smokie


Lunan Bay, between Arbroath and Montrose

Dunnottar castle, Aberdeenshire

Drum castle, Aberdeenshire

Balmoral castle war memorial

Balmoral castle, Royal Deeside

Balmoral castle

River Dee at Easter Balmoral – Muzette in quiet reflection

After a hard day on the road


Ballater Caravan Park

Sitting pretty and ready for Day 3


Corgarff castle, Strathdon

Castle Roy, Nethybridge.

Castle Roy, Nethybridge

Castle Roy, Nethybridge

Why does she always acquire a dog wherever she goes?


Loch an Eilean castle, Rothiemurchus

Practicing that Dambusters dance for the Germans on Rannoch Moor


Carrbridge – home of the World Porridge-Making Championships where first prize is a golden spurtle. The old packhorse bridge across the river Dulnain was built in 1717 and is looking a little frail.

Inverness castle, Highland

Glen Urquhart castle, Drumnadrochit

Aha – so Nessie IS for real!


Urquhart castle, Highland

Loch Ness cruise on the Nessie Hunter

Would we get to see the wee beastie?


Scottish weather


Muz Jr in an intelligent moment


Another intelligent moment


Cherry Island, the only island on Loch Ness after they raised the level for the Caledonian canal. During the 15th century there was a castle on the island.

Caledonian canal locks – The 62 mile Caledonian canal links the east coast at Inverness with the west coast at Corpach near Fort William, and flows through Loch Dochfour, Loch Ness, Loch Oich and Loch Lochy.

Caledonian canal locks, Fort Augustus

Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the British Isles at over 4,400ft above sea level, and I had always been told that “the Big Ben” was in SW1A


Neptune’s Staircase, the longest staircase lock in the UK comprising eight locks and lifting boats 64 feet.

Inverlochy castle, Highland

Inverlochy castle

Castle Stalker, Argyll

Oban Caravan & Camping Park

Lunch on the run

Oban & McCaig's Tower to the top left

Dunolly castle, Oban

Caledonian MacBrayne. We’ll be keeping them busy for the next couple of weeks


Clansman Oban to Barra via Coll & Tiree

Duart castle, Isle of Mull

Ardnamurchan Point, the most westerly point on the mainland

Arinagour, Isle of Coll

Arinagour, Isle of Coll

Breachacha castle, Isle of Coll

Scarinish, Isle of Tiree

Isle of Barra lifeboat

Catalina JX273 memorial, on 12th May 1944 a Consolidated Catalina had a faulty compass and before they could climb to a safe height they crashed into Heishival Beag on Vatersay. Three of the nine crew were killed instantly the other six survived.

The engines and large parts were removed at the time by the RAF but the rest was left there and remains today.

Catalina JX273 crash site, Isle of Vatersay

Annie Jane memorial. Launched in 1853, the first & last voyage of this ship claimed 350 of the 450 lives on board as she got caught in a gale, lost one of her masts and drifted onto rocks.

Isle of Vatersay

Isle of Vatersay

Isle of Vatersay

Isle of Vatersay

MacLeod’s tower, Isle of Barra

A888, Isle of Barra. There’s only one classified road on Barra, from Castlebay to, erm, Castlebay


Eoligarry, Isle of Barra

Eoligarry, Isle of Barra

Eoligarry, Isle of Barra

Eoligarry, Isle of Barra

Eoligarry, Isle of Barra

Eoligarry, Isle of Barra

Eoligarry, Isle of Barra – Does wild-camping get any better than this?


Muzette enjoying the sea & sun

Barra airport

Barra airport

Barra airport, LoganAir de Havilland Twin Otter

Barra airport, LoganAir de Havilland Twin Otter

Bata Fada Beag Kisimul castle ferry

Kisimul castle, Isle of Barra, home of the Clan MacNeil

Inside Kisimul castle

Castlebay, Isle of Barra, from within Kisimul castle

Inside Kisimul castle, Isle of Barra

Otter spotting, isle of Berneray

Loch Alainn Barra to Eriskay

After the SS Politician was wrecked in 1941 with 264,000 bottles of malt whisky on board (prompting the Compton MacKenzie book “Whisky Galore” and the film “Whisky Galore!”), Eriskay did eventually get its own ‘legal’ pub....

....“Am Politician”

Ormacleit castle, Isle of South Uist

Our Lady of the Isles statue, Isle of South Uist

Rocket Range, South Uist was built in 1957-58 to launch the Corporal missile, Britain and America's first guided nuclear weapon, the front line of Cold War defence. The Corporal missile was tested from 1959 to 1963. The range is still owned by the MoD as a testing facility for missile systems such as the surface-to-air Rapier missile and Unmanned Air Vehicles.

Borve castle, Isle of Benbecula

Flodda Island, population 11


Hebridean Smokehouse, Isle of North Uist, where we got some rather excellent smoked scallops....

....and smoked salmon. Excellent for a light lunch


Isle of North Uist



Pobull Fhinn stone circle, Isle of North Uist

Pobul Fhinn stone circle, Isle of North Uist

Peat - Isle of North Uist. From a distance we thought that this was a dodgy campsite or a tip


Langass burial chamber, Isle of North Uist

Langass burial chamber, Isle of North Uist

Langass burial chamber, Isle of North Uist

Langass burial chamber, Isle of North Uist

Scolpaig tower, Isle of North Uist

Quiet contemplation, Isle of Berneray

Was the sea warm or cold?


Ah, may be a tad cold then


Chase me


That anti-gravity device seems to work well


Isle of Berneray Travel Inn


Seals, Isle of Berneray

Loch Portain, Berneray to Leverburgh


Another acquisition, Isle of Harris

Hushinish beach wild-camping, Isle of Harris


Candles – anti-midge devices


Hushinish beach – how cool is this place?

August, and the beach is rammed with tourists as usual. Hushinish beach, Isle of Harris

Well, with sheep anyway


Amhuinnsuidhe castle, Isle of Harris

Abhainn Mhòr, Isle of Harris

Uig Chessmen, Isle of Lewis

High winds forecast


Uig sands wild-camping

Uig sands, Isle of Lewis

Crowded camping areas, can’t be doing with it


Get down Shep!


Traffic jam, Isle of Lewis

Bosta, Isle of Great Bernera

Bosta, Isle of Great Bernera

Bosta, Isle of Great Bernera

Iron-Age village, Isle of Great Bernera

Callanish VIII standing stones, Isle of Great Bernera

Peat, Isle of Lewis

Callanish IV standing stones, Isle of Lewis

Callanish III standing stones, Isle of Lewis

Callanish II standing stones, Isle of Lewis

Callanish 1 standing stones, Isle of Lewis

Callanish I standing stones, Isle of Lewis

Dun Carloway broch, Isle of Lewis

Gearrannan Black House Village, Isle of Lewis

Gearrannan Black House Village, Isle of Lewis

Whalebone arch (Bragar), Isle of Lewis

Lews castle, Isle of Lewis

Horgabost beach campsite, Isle of Harris

Hebrides, Tarbert to Uig

Special delivery of 904 gas bottles for Bongos


Museum of island life, Isle of Skye

Duntulm castle, Isle of Skye

Dunvegan castle, Isle of Skye

Dunvegan castle, Isle of Skye

Kinloch campsite, Isle of Skye

Kinloch campsite, Isle of Skye

Glorious sunset, Kinloch campsite, Isle of Skye

The Isle of Skye Highland Games, Portree

The Isle of Skye Highland Games

Hammer throwing, Isle of Skye Highland Games

”56lb weight over bar”, Isle of Skye Highland Games

Putting the stone, Isle of Skye Highland Games. Mrs Muz was disappointed that this competitor wore Lycra shorts under his kilt


A disconsolate Muzette having lost her Tug-of-War heat, Isle of Skye Highland Games


Glenachulish, Kyle Rhea to Glenelg which then sends you over the magnificent Mam Ratagan Pass to Shiel Bridge

To quote the Undiscovered Scotland website, “Every visitor to Skye should consider going by ferry. After all, although the Skye Bridge is a wonderful structure, crossing it only takes you to Skye. To get to the Isle of Skye, you need to travel by sea. The two Skyes are equally wonderful, but somehow the Isle of Skye feels just that little bit more special.”

Eilean Donan castle, Highland

Heland coos

Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), Applecross

Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), Applecross

Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), Applecross

Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), Applecross

Applecross Inn, Applecross

Applecross Inn, Applecross

Applecross wild-camping

Heron, Applecross

Applecross – on the beach in pyjamas


Deer, Applecross

Beachcomber Cottage, home of “Monty Halls’ Great Escape”

Caisteal Maol, Isle of Skye

Knock castle, Isle of Skye

Dunscaith castle, Isle of Skye

Armadale castle, Isle of Skye

Coruisk, Armadale to Mallaig

Loch Nan Ceall wild-camping

Loch Nan Ceall wildlife spotting

Loch Nan Ceall

Loch Nan Ceall

Loch Nan Ceall

Loch Nan Ceall

Knoydart refuse collection service


Western Isles, Mallaig to Inverie, Knoydart

Porpoise spotting, Loch Nevis, Knoydart

Loch Nevis, Knoydart

Our Lady of Loch Nevis, Knoydart

The Old Forge, Knoydart, the most remote pub in Britain

Seafood platter, The Old Forge


At The Old Forge, Knoydart

Loch Nevis

Seals, Loch Nevis

Castle Tioram on the tidal island Eilean Tioram in Loch Moidart, Highland

Loch Moidart sunset

Castle Tioram wild-camping

The lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point, the most westerly point of mainland Britain. You get a good view from the top


Ardnamurchan

Mingary castle, Highland

Loch Linnhe, Kilchoan to Tobermory

Tobermory, Isle of Mull. What’s the story in Balamory today?


Isle of Mull airport


Wild-camping


Wild-camp between Ensay & Burg, Isle of Mull

The Jrs cooking, oh no, what are they going to conjure up?


Ah, bockwürsts & rice


Mint sauce! Mint sauce!


Traffic jam, Isle of Mull

Glengorm castle, Isle of Mull

Aros castle, Isle of Mull

Split-second timing on the Ulva ferry


The Ulva ferry


Isle of Ulva


The Boathouse, Isle of Ulva

Scallops


Smoked mackerel & oatcakes

Isle of Ulva

Eas Fors waterfall, Isle of Mull


Loch Beg, Isle of Mull

Loch Beg, Isle of Mull

Loch Beg wild-camping, Isle of Mull

Loch Beg, Isle of Mull

In search of the biggest splash

Hoy Lass, Ulva Ferry to Staffa

Fingal’s cave, Isle of Staffa

Basalt rock columns, Isle of Staffa

They love each other really


Fingal’s cave, Isle of Staffa

Seals, Isle of Ulva

Fionnphort, Isle of Mull

Oh no, a solo effort from Muzette.....

Pasta, beans & bockwürsts


Loch Buie, Fionnphort to Iona

Iona Abbey, Isle of Iona

Iona Abbey, Isle of Iona

Iona Abbey, Isle of Iona

Another intelligent moment


The Old Nunnery, Isle of Iona

Torosay castle, Isle of Mull

Duart castle, Isle of Mull

Loch Fyne, Fishnish to Lochaline

Corran, Ardgour to Nether Lochaber

River Etive, Rannoch Moor

Stob Dearg, Rannoch Moor

Rannoch Moor - Does wild-camping get any more wild than this?

Our 19th wedding anniversary on Rannoch Moor


Classy meal for our anniversary


Kings House Hotel, Rannoch Moor – Does the rainbow have any significance?


Exhausted!


Kilchurn castle, Argyll & Bute

Inveraray castle

Hebridean Isles, Oban to Port Askaig

Scalasaig, Isle of Colonsay

Loch Indaal wild-camping, Isle of Islay

Yet another acquisition, Isle of Islay

Traffic jam, Isle of Islay

Eilean Dhiura Port Askaig to Feolin Ferry

Corran sands, Isle of Jura

Isle of Jura


Classy B+B, Isle of Jura


Loch na Mile, Isle of Jura

Tràigh na Mile, Isle of Jura

Tràigh na Mile, Isle of Jura

Jura Distillery tour


Isle of Jura distillery

Whisky stills, Jura distillery


Traffic jam, Isle of Jura

Wyre Majestic wreck off Bunnahabhain, Isle of Islay. A 338 ton trawler which ran aground on October 18th 1974.

Dunyvaig castle, Isle of Islay

Port Ellen, Isle of Islay

Isle of Arran Port Ellen to Kennacraig

Levelling blocks from Fiamma’s Scottish agents


Skipness Bay, Kintyre wild-camping

Skipness Bay, Kintyre wild-camping

Those new heavy-duty rock-pegs people keep going on about



Skipness castle, Kintyre peninsula

Loch Tarbert, Claonaig to Lochranza

Lochranza castle, Isle of Arran

Kildonan castle, Isle of Arran, in typical Scottish weather

Brodick castle, Isle of Arran

Brodick castle, Isle of Arran

Caledonian Isles Brodick to Ardrossan
So, what’s the verdict on this year’s tour?
