Bongo Fury

Ok I think this may be better posted here than in the general forum.

After waiting 6 weeks since I paid the deposit, it now looks like I will be test driving my bongo on Saturday and then if all ok will do the deal.

I have looked on the buying guide here and found this

"When driving the van turn the radio off and listen for any strange noises...a whistling/screeching/squealing sort of noise, may be put down to belt slip by a seller but is more likely to be a broken manifold stud which is a cheap but difficult and time consuming diy job, or an expensive garage job. Pull away on full right hand and left hand locks....any odd ticking, knocking or grinding noises could mean big money cv joint repairs or perhaps just a simple diff oil change. "

Anything else I should check for when test driving ? I was going to take it for a good 10-20 mile drive so it gets nice and hot etc.

For info this is a very low milage 2.5D 2WD bongo 1995 with 34K km on the clock. The roof got damaged just after import and its been sitting around for 18 months before they got round to fitting a new roof and now doing a full service for me.

Looking round the vehicle the milage seems genuine and is backed up by the Auction sheet, included handbook and service records. The condition is visable and corresponds with the as stated 4 on the auction sheet.

Its coming with a 9 month warranty with any single item claim up to £1000. The warranty work is all undertaken from the garage selling it to me. They have a history of importing Japenese cars and at one time did lots of bongos.

Regards

Jerry

jerrysimon wrote:Ok I think this may be better posted here than in the general forum.

After waiting 6 weeks since I paid the deposit, it now looks like I will be test driving my bongo on Saturday and then if all ok will do the deal.

I have looked on the buying guide here and found this

"When driving the van turn the radio off and listen for any strange noises...a whistling/screeching/squealing sort of noise, may be put down to belt slip by a seller but is more likely to be a broken manifold stud which is a cheap but difficult and time consuming diy job, or an expensive garage job. Pull away on full right hand and left hand locks....any odd ticking, knocking or grinding noises could mean big money cv joint repairs or perhaps just a simple diff oil change. "

Anything else I should check for when test driving ? I was going to take it for a good 10-20 mile drive so it gets nice and hot etc.

For info this is a very low milage 2.5D 2WD bongo 1995 with 34K km on the clock. The roof got damaged just after import and its been sitting around for 18 months before they got round to fitting a new roof and now doing a full service for me.

Looking round the vehicle the milage seems genuine and is backed up by the Auction sheet, included handbook and service records. The condition is visable and corresponds with the as stated 4 on the auction sheet.

Its coming with a 9 month warranty with any single item claim up to £1000. The warranty work is all undertaken from the garage selling it to me. They have a history of importing Japenese cars and at one time did lots of bongos.

Regards

Jerry

* Listen for clonking noises over bumps and potholes as this may indicate knackered droplinks and/or antiroll bar bushes.

* Check the roof opens and closes properly with no funny noises, dash panel lights of beepers going off when they shouldn't. Roof should not open unless auto gearbox in 'P' and handbrake is on. It should not come down once fully opened, unless the 'Lock/Cancel' button in the roof has been pressed before the up/down switch is used.

* With low mileage and having sat around a lot, check for any signs of rusty coolant, rust staining in header tank etc. in case it has a gunged up cooling system and/or has had a coolant eruption. Engine temp gauge should move from tthe cold stop to 11.00 position after 5 mins approx on the road. More than that and thermostat may be tired.

I'm assuming you've done all the bodywork and underside rust checks. Is it waxoyled as - if not - that should be done. And you should fit a low coolant alarm for peace of mind if you do buy it.

Good luck - keep us posted

Thanks Mike.

The test drive "lookoutfors" you listed are helpfull

All the other stuff you listed is in my other posts in other rooms. I just wanted to asked specifically about a test drive here in the techie room.

Regards

Jerry

I would also test all electrics. Do all switches work? Windows open, air con cools, heater heats, blinds swish and lights light. Also do mirrors move and adjust, if leccy of course.

Also I would do one or two hard emergency stops. Does it pull or stop straight. Are brakes good or worn?

Watch it start from cold if possible. Any smoke or odd noises. Tyre wear as well. Make sure it is even.