Bongo Fury

Hello all----with the recent topics on rotting wheel arches i thought i'd look at mine (underneath) my wheel arches on the outside are spot on so took inner plastic arch off & found them in amazing condition & obviously would like to keep them like that -- my question is can i buy small quantities of Waxoil -- enough to do all my arches -- or would you think (the condition there in) i could paint them with Hammerite probably 2 or 3 coats??
Any help would be appreciated

I would buy a gallon of the Waxoyl and blast it all.........if you have any over it keeps........

Mine is in the workshop in September for a blast over again (top up)......

If you want to hammerite too then it's up to you but anything to keep the rust bug away......... the devil is the salted roads....grrrr

Are the rear arches ok Ray? They are the one's that seem more prone to rusting...

bigdaddycain wrote:Are the rear arches ok Ray? They are the one's that seem more prone to rusting...

Eyup Steve---i'm probably getting carried away then so far i've only checked the front--but i will check the rear tomorrow -- hopefully they will be the same as the front

You can get a large aerosol can of waxoil for about £6, handy for a quick squirt.

The spray can is certainly pretty handy to squirt into hard to reach places.

missfixit70 wrote:You can get a large aerosol can of waxoil for about £6, handy for a quick squirt.

Oh did'nt realise you could buy it like that (thanks for that) do you reckon it would do a couple of arches or all four mind you if it took 4 cans to do the job i would by it--is it a Halfords trip then???

If you must Any car shop should stock it. There'll be a choice of clear & black, black looks best on wheel arches, the clear looks a bit like congealed vomit

missfixit70 wrote:If you must Any car shop should stock it. There'll be a choice of clear & black, black looks best on wheel arches, the clear looks a bit like congealed vomit

Then black it is----thanks a lot Kirsty

bigdaddycain wrote:Are the rear arches ok Ray? They are the one's that seem more prone to rusting...

Well Steve---looked at rear arches & there just as good so painted them all today & there looking good Not bad for a so called Northern Rot Box

Was yours a twin battery setup with the engine warmimng flap in the exhaust then Ray?

missfixit70 wrote:Was yours a twin battery setup with the engine warmimng flap in the exhaust then Ray?

Yes Kirsty---it's got the switch in the cab with that symbol on

Nice to see one bucking the trend then

I removed all the plastic covers from the front and removed a quantity of rotten leaves, painted with black waxoyl being sure to get a load in on the lip ( where it presumably rubs against the plastic liner ) then left it a day before replacing the liner.
Same on the rear arches but the rears also rust from the inside out so I removed the rear inside panels and gave the metalwork a good seeing to with sprayable waxoyl. I imagine the rusting happens from condensation on the inside panels. Mine looked OK but now it has copious amounts of goo protecting it.
Removing the rear panels is not too onerous a task once you have psyched yourself up to it, getting the offside one free of the seats was the main issue from memory. They go back without a rattling which is good to know.
Once the rear panels are off, you might consider damping the panels, before waxoyling, with that expensive aluminium and bitumen sound damping stuff. Being a stingy so and so, I got flashing from Wickes and applied it with a wallpaper seam roller from the same shop. The panels are thin and wobbly and boing when tapped with a knuckle but give a satisfying thud sound once deadened. I used a couple of layers of the stuff on the larger areas for best effect. The cabin noise in my petrol Bongo is lower I am sure, I wish I had taken some recordings before and after to prove it.
One advantage of deadening the panels in this way is to reduce the area to waxoyl and this means a quicker recovery from the white spirit smell inside.
Give yourself a day to do it, I can't think of a more cost effective DIY job, the parts cost little and you will save the inevitable bodywork in a few years time.
Cheers,
Tim

timhum wrote:I removed all the plastic covers from the front and removed a quantity of rotten leaves, painted with black waxoyl being sure to get a load in on the lip ( where it presumably rubs against the plastic liner ) then left it a day before replacing the liner.
Same on the rear arches but the rears also rust from the inside out so I removed the rear inside panels and gave the metalwork a good seeing to with sprayable waxoyl. I imagine the rusting happens from condensation on the inside panels. Mine looked OK but now it has copious amounts of goo protecting it.
Removing the rear panels is not too onerous a task once you have psyched yourself up to it, getting the offside one free of the seats was the main issue from memory. They go back without a rattling which is good to know.
Once the rear panels are off, you might consider damping the panels, before waxoyling, with that expensive aluminium and bitumen sound damping stuff. Being a stingy so and so, I got flashing from Wickes and applied it with a wallpaper seam roller from the same shop. The panels are thin and wobbly and boing when tapped with a knuckle but give a satisfying thud sound once deadened. I used a couple of layers of the stuff on the larger areas for best effect. The cabin noise in my petrol Bongo is lower I am sure, I wish I had taken some recordings before and after to prove it.
One advantage of deadening the panels in this way is to reduce the area to waxoyl and this means a quicker recovery from the white spirit smell inside.
Give yourself a day to do it, I can't think of a more cost effective DIY job, the parts cost little and you will save the inevitable bodywork in a few years time.
Cheers,
Tim

Thanks for advise Tim--as you say not an expensive job but time consuming & can be a bit back breaking but well worth it