Bongo Fury

Before I get any replies, I know that this is going to be a stupid question (don't forget, its always easy when you know how) but...............
I decided this morning to have a look (explore) the engine from the drivers side. I understand access is gained by shifting the drivers seat.
I have found the 2 clips at the front of the seat which 'loosen' it and look as though they should release it, but then what? Which way does it move?
I have done a search but found naff all - are there any pics anywhere?

It flips back, just like the passenger seat. Unless of course you have a side conversion and then you have to unbolt the seat to get a good look.

Take out the centre console. Two big plastic screws, one behind gear leaver, one under ashtray. Lift off tray to release carpet, undo clips and flip seat back.

Its impressive especialy if you have a V6.

There's another clip under the centre console. Consider your wrists slapped for not getting the vendor to show you how to do this

missfixit70 wrote:There's another clip under the centre console. Consider your wrists slapped for not getting the vendor to show you how to do this

OK - well and truly slapped

Having first purchased the Bongo (love at first sight - seriously) and T..H..E..N joined the club, it would appear that I have been very lucky in our purchase.
If I had read some of the experiences before buying, I would probably have had second thoughts.
So - we are very fortunate - we got a lady.

New Forest Terrier wrote:It flips back, just like the passenger seat. Unless of course you have a side conversion and then you have to unbolt the seat to get a good look.

Take out the centre console. Two big plastic screws, one behind gear leaver, one under ashtray. Lift off tray to release carpet, undo clips and flip seat back.

Its impressive especialy if you have a V6.

Thanks pal - I knew it would be simple - however, we do have the side conversion which makes it a tad more inconvenient for idle exploration.

If the side conversion is stopping the seat from tilting back, either get a prop (my steering lock does the job when I can't be bothered shifting the stuff behind the seat ) or on the drivers side, slide the seat forward on it's adjustment once up past the steering wheel to hold it up.

missfixit70 wrote:If the side conversion is stopping the seat from tilting back, either get a prop (my steering lock does the job when I can't be bothered shifting the stuff behind the seat ) or on the drivers side, slide the seat forward on it's adjustment once up past the steering wheel to hold it up.

To lift the engine cover with the seat on past the steering wheel, it has to be fairly well back on its adjustment, once you've lifted the seat up past the steering wheel, slide the seat forward & it'll catch on the steering wheel, stopping it going down, just about allowing you enough access to the engine compartment, try it, then you'll see what I mean

It only takes 2 mins to take the seat out altogether...2 bolts front and back....

It only takes 2 mins to take the seat out altogether

Apparently less than that, once you've done it a thousand times.

So much help - thanks guys

missfixit70 wrote:If the side conversion is stopping the seat from tilting back, either get a prop (my steering lock does the job when I can't be bothered shifting the stuff behind the seat ) or on the drivers side, slide the seat forward on it's adjustment once up past the steering wheel to hold it up.

Done it again - is there anything you can't do?
So this , whilst being great, opens up another can of worms and questions.
Having had a general poke around (its very clean in there) I was looking at Hose number 15-186. Connects from top of engine on driver side to metal pipe going forward to radiator.
There is an area on the top bend of the hose, about 8mm diameter, which is 'softer' than the rest of the hose - depresses when prodded.
Going to book it into a garage tomorrow to get ALL the hoses, radiator, thermostat checked. What else would you suggest whilst this lot is being done?
My primary reason for wanting access to the engine is so that I can get my thermal imaging camera on it to see exactly what gets warm/hot. Should prove quite interesting.

Top hose - one of the first to cause problems most of the time, get all 4 of the larger hoses to & from the rad checked/changed as well as the one over the starter, often causes problems as does the bleed hose on the passenger side if it chafes, cover it in a split length of hose to protect it.

Spent today replacing 'skinny' spare with a 'real' wheel and new tyres on the back - happy chappie once again.
Took her in to a 'Bongo' friendly garage to get hoses checked and was told they were all OK.
Scavenger fan seems to be working.
The only bits the garage could find needing replacement were some bushes (I wondered what the occasional clunking noise was.)

I have (currently) one query - the bottom hose, whilst not cool to the touch, is not as warm as I would have expected.
At first, I thought it may be the radiator could be blocked and the coolant not getting round (I think I am secretly looking for something to replace!!!!!) or is it normal that the bottom hose is 'comfortable' to the touch? - would this suggest that the radiator is doing its job efficiently ie. cooling the coolant??

The only bits the garage could find needing replacement were some bushes (I wondered what the occasional clunking noise was.)

I have (currently) one query - the bottom hose, whilst not cool to the touch, is not as warm as I would have expected.
At first, I thought it may be the radiator could be blocked and the coolant not getting round (I think I am secretly looking for something to replace!!!!!) or is it normal that the bottom hose is 'comfortable' to the touch? - would this suggest that the radiator is doing its job efficiently ie. cooling the coolant??

I believe that the clunking noise will probably be the drop links, very easy to do (as long as the old ones come off) and the bottom hose may not be as hot to touch as the top one but shouldn't be cool, especially after a good run. The most common cause could be a sticky thermostat, even easier than the drop links but you open up the whole bleeding the system scenario. Worth doing though if you're worried about it, in my opinion...