Bongo Fury

How do you remove the tailgate card?
I've no interior handle on the tailgate, have removed the four panel colour matching scrivets & popped the the 8 or so panel attachments round the edge...

But it appears still attached in the middle of the panel, half way down, two foot in the centre..?

What have i missed?

Cheers you lot!

There is another pair of the plastic pop outs as I recall, same technique as the edges, long handled screwdriver to pop them out.

Ah ha! makes sense... Thanks Geoff!
Sorting out a foible in my otherwise decent alarm system (unless you leave mobile phones & sausage rolls over the microwave sensor, i cant fault it.) & hoping to get at the latch in the tailgate which acts as a trigger for the boot light!

The latch has always been a bit dickie!! (NOT locking just on the electrical front!)

It all makes sense to me.

My alarm had a prob with the back door, i took the trigger from the light but the light didn't come on when you opened the door it did sometimes but a sticky switch wd40 sorted mine


by the way jaylee can i pick your brain on your class act closing mirror trick


Dar

I went down the WD40 rout Cheffy a few times.. If the handle of the latch is jiggled the light will come on!

My problem has been when opening disarming.. The unit will lock re-arm if the two front doors are not opened in a certain time after opening.
That's OK if climbing in the cab.. But what if i load from the back or use the side door?
Till now, i remedied this by opening & closing briefly one of the cab doors.
But not any more!

The mirror trick i wouldn't call a class act Dar, I certainly am no Auto leccy...
I have got it to work, tis true! Reliable? Yes! But it still needs a little refinement...

Ask away dude!

Well i managed to remove the tailgate locking mechanism... Found the latch was clogged with what looked like old news paper!!
The latch is a sealed unit so i flushed it with WD40... Works a treat now!
Now i don't have to jiggle it to get the light to come on...

Well done J I could have told you it was sealed unit mine was just gummed up with years of grease and dust.


Did you wire your mirrors through your window closure, i have never got around to trying it if so where did you pick the wires up from, did you need to put diodes in them aswell i just need to have it done


Dar

Hi Dar,
I managed to get hold of a separate cheaper window closure unit triggered from the double locking pulse on the alarm CL.. Both the mirror & the window winder unit's sit in the kick panel drivers foot well under the beep stuff!

I just followed the same fitting instructions as you would if they were the windows that the unit was initially designed for, but applied to the mirrors instead...

Now, here is the tricky bit.
I don't know about your window closure system but mine closes the windows in turn starting with the drivers side. (Though in fairness it tends to be the passenger one that gets left open.)
I found the feed for the mirrors was only one wire on the close for the two mirrors, as opposed to the two on the drivers window switch. (One for each window).
So i took the drivers feed on the new separate unit only & applied that in the same way behind the mirror switch to the close wire. (I think there is a bundle of seven going to a connector at the back of the mirror switch unit.)
The passenger side i didn't need! (i was planning applying those to the closure of the blinds)!!

Diodes...
But like i keep stressing, it needs a little refinement because however; Unless i flick the switch in the close position on leaving the vehicle they don't close on locking.
But the funny thing is if i have anything pluged in the cig lighter socket (like a sat nav) it does! Regardless of switch position...!
The initial idea being they fold in on locking & fold out on start up!
I haven't really had the time yet to investigate whether the application of a diode would remedy this quirk, I was hoping for some feedback from you....

Double pulse whats all that about thats summit i get when my wife gives me that look does mine need to do that my closure shuts the passenger first can't you just change the wiring over as to wether diodes will help with your isssue i don't know all i know is that they stop the current running backwards on itself use when joining 2 triggers, doing it without can make your leccy go funny mine used to make noises thru the speakers when alarming/disarming , i' ve heard it can make your dash do weird things aswell I was just gonna use the closure im using was gonna take the next window input and get to the mirror wires I've got a usefull link on diodes if ya want it


Dar

I worked on the theory if it works the windows, it should work on the mirrors too!
Yeah, i could change the wiring over on the windows, but i'm happy with that set up...

That's about as much as i know about the application of diodes too,
The diode link would be useful, cheers!

My old alarm made my dash do the Amityville thing too..
I've had no issues with the new one, except since adding the mod for the mirror the radio turned on & off when left on... Possibly a diode should be fitted somewhere along the line??

If you got a roll up system for four windows the 3rd set of two should work!
But like i said i still need to refine the mirror thing on mine!

jaylee wrote: I worked on the theory if it works the windows, it should work on the mirrors too!
Yeah, i could change the wiring over on the windows, but i'm happy with that set up...

That's about as much as i know about the application of diodes too,
The diode link would be useful, cheers!

My old alarm made my dash do the Amityville thing too..
I've had no issues with the new one, except since adding the mod for the mirror the radio turned on & off when left on... Possibly a diode should be fitted somewhere along the line??

If you got a roll up system for four windows the 3rd set of two should work!
But like i said i still need to refine the mirror thing on mine!

DIODES J

http://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp