Bongo Fury

Top ones have come away okay but bottom ones seem to be glued on. Any tips? Starting to round one of them off. Any ideas would be welcome before I give up and drop it into the local garage that seem to be fiarly (comparitavely) reasonable prices wise.

They need a good soaking in a releasing spray and then a decent socket with I think an allen on the back of the bolt.

Or you can be completely reckless like me and angle grind the b*gg*rs off!

Angle grinder


Dar

Hi Lewy.

They can be a bit awkward to get to, but should be possible simply via the wheel arch (after removing the wheel, of course!)*

Best to use a 'ratchet' wrench as this will allow you to rotate the handle until it is in the best position - for a bludy good clump with a rubber mallet (do hit it the correct way...). To 'break the seal', you need a good dynamic blow on the handle - just trying to lever it is likely to be useless. This should do the trick.

Once 'cracked', you can slip an open-ended spanner (don't know what size 'cos I used an adjustable) onto the ball joint on the opposite side to the A-R bar fitting - you need to push the rubber gaiter back and slip it in. This will prevent the ball joint from rotating whilst you fully remove the nut.

When fitting the new drop link, you need to be careful not to damage the gaiter when you slip on this open spanner - push the gaiter back to make room.

Coat the thread and nut with anti-seize compound or Waxoyl - just in case you need to redo them under your ownership

* When you remove one wheel, the suspension on that side will be low which will be putting the AR bar under torsion. So, be carefull when removing the first drop link end! I actually placed a second jack under the bottom wishbone ball joint and jacked up the suspension until it was at the same level as the other side - ie: when this jack almost took the full weight of the side. Make sure it's all secure...

I tried everything to get mine off, but some monkey had rounded it off before i got there try hammering a smaller socket on it if it rounded but really angle grinder will be easier if ya brave enough

I fitted new rear ARB's last week and one of them sheared off, had to grind of the stud and drill out and use a nut and bolt, no pobs


Sparky

Thanks for those replies - will look at it again this weekend unless there are waves to be had. I used a freeze spray effectively on my rear roll bar bushes a couple of years ago so might try and get that again and also hammer and sharp bolster to break the seal. I think my socket set is getting a little tired now and I reckon there are better shaped sockets to be had. Might try and find a good 17mm socket for next attempt.

Angle grinder was my weapon of choice after the nut rounded off.

you can't beat a good angle grinder

I had to buy a new socket because mine wasn't quite deep enough to take the bit of stud / bolt that protrudes through the nut.

Having said that, I still couldn't shift them and had to grind 'em off anyway...

Phil

Don't mess about Angle Grinder!

They don't like it up 'em Mr Mannering!

Veg_Ian wrote:Don't mess about Angle Grinder!

They don't like it up 'em Mr Mannering!

I agree my theary is they are not suppossed to come undone once they are on

Dar

Good point, ex25er - I now remember a standard socket probably won't be deep enough to cope with the protruding stud; mine wasn't! That likely explains the many rounded nuts we hear about (ooh-er, missus).

After borrowing a nice deep 'un from my neighb, a good wallop on the end of the wrench handle with a rubber mallet had it shifted. (Well, a few good wallops...)

Ring spanner & a tap or two with a mallet sorted mine.

I bought these to remove a seized sump plug on a Saab 900. Where every thing else failed these glided it off.Not cheap at around £20.00 but alot less than paying garage labour charges. I haven't actually used them on droplink bolts but I imagine they would work equally well on them. I got my set at Machine Mart-Amazon also sell them.