Bongo Fury

mister munkey wrote:Its a bit more involved than that due to the plumbing for the back heater. Several methods are used, mostly with the same results. Check out the factsheets in the Members section for a definitive guide or try scrambling through the search facility on here.

Bottom line is - Get it right or it could cost you big bucks & plenty grey hairs.









. . . . Beat me to it there Dobby!

Heres what the workshop manual says (inter alia):

Once you have drained the system and tightened the radiator drain plug

10. Set the air bleed hose downward as shown in the diagram [hooked over steering wheel]
11. Set down a container for draining coolant
12. Remove the [radiator] filler cap
13. Fill the coolant to the upper surface of the radiator
14. Attach the filler cap
15. Fill the coolant to the radiator reservoir tank flange surface

Caution
* Remove the reservoir tank cap to bleed air
* A/C Switch should be turned off

16.Start the engine and idle for approximately 10 minutes to warm up

Caution
If any of the following phenomena occurs, stop the engine to lower the water temperature as filling is incomplete. After water temperature is lowered, repeat steps from (15)
(1) Water temperature rises too high
(2) Cooling fan operates
(3) Steam comes out constantly from the air bleed hose

17. Perform the following operations after the engine is warmed up
(1) Keep the engine running at 2500rpm for 6 minutes

Warning
When checking the lower radiator hose (radiator side), be aware of burns or getting caught in the cooling fan.
(2) Check the lower radiator hose (radiator side) is warm. If it is cold, keep the engine running at 2500rpm for 3 minutes, then check again if the radiator hose is warm.
(3) Fill with coolant up to the radiator reservoir tank flange surface

Warning
When attaching the air bleed hose plug, the air bleed hose should be facing upwards as it could cause a burn if it leaks on you
(4) Attach the air bleed hose plug as shown in the diagram
(5) Attach the reservoir tank cap
(6) Keep the engine running at 25000rpm for 5 minutes
(7) Keep the engine idling for 3 minutes
(8) Keep the engine running at 25000rpm for 5 seconds then return to idling status. Repeat this 4 to 5 times.

18. Stop the engine and check the coolant level after coolant temperature has lowered.

So there you have it, chapter and (dodgily translated) verse. It seems to fit with what Haydn has been doing. The only things that perhaps need consideration are:

* if it is taking a very long time to get the bottom how warm (warm should do I think as all you need is confirmation the stat has opened and coolant is flowing fully around the full system - many owners have said their bottom hose never gets hot) then (if it were mine) I'd be asking myself why that is. The stat needs to be open not just to ensure air in the bottom hose is flushed out, but that coolant (and entrapped air) throughout the whole system is forced into circulation so that coolant and entrapped air whizz past the bleed pipe exit, where air will escape more readily than liquid.

* It seems sensible (and the manual recommends it) to re-check the header tank level when the engine is cold so that the coolant level can be set exactly to the marks when cold (the level does rise from hold to hot due to expansion I think). Also, I imagine it is possible (though the manual doesn't say this so maybe not) that any residual air bubbles (not significant of themselves in terms of adequate system bleeding) could eventually purge through to the header tank as the highest point. If that happened, the indication would be a small drop in coolant level there, which again, it might be best to top up to the proper mark so you know you have left levels as they should be.

I thought I'd type this up as its been raining and I couldn't house paint. Its stopped now so I can, but I hope the above may be useful to those about to attempt bleeding. If I've got any of it wrong, maybe someone could correct and comment.

PS - I had fitted a new thermostat to mine at the same time as replacing the coolant. It was noticeable that my Bongo reached operating temp with the new stat after 5 mins on the road whereas previously it had taken 10 minutes. So if the bottom hose is proving slow to warm then it may well be the stat is tired. Of course you'd rather know that before refilling so if in doubt I'd consider a new stat as part of the job. Not expensive and - on the 2WD at least - not too hard to fit. 4WD a bit harder due to propshaft in the way but I know some have managed it without undoing the propshaft.

kev&caz wrote:mister monkey thanks for the swift reply you to Dobby.
Dobby no I don’t know how the dark art of bleeding the system works? I have taken off the hose and I’m sure the one I’ve looked at on Bongo bits with a description of above the starter is the correct one. But I was going to fit the hose and run the engine with the radiator cap off for a few minuets? But please enlighten me.

The Great Pretender wrote:Ok Mike, used your method, after this part I now need a new engine, you will hear from my solicitor...........



6) Keep the engine running at 25000rpm for 5 minutes

The easy way to get all the air out of the cooling system is to stand the Bongo on its tailgate................