Bongo Fury

Hi Gang,

The tickover on my 2001 V6 seems very low and, occasionally it cuts out at traffic lights etc. What should the TO be and, how do I adjust it?

TIA.

Adrian.

All info in Bongo Clinic Archives

I doubt it's adjustable, the E.C.U takes care of the fuelling and air parameters, it's supposed to automatically adjust air/fuel ratio's given the information that it receives from it's many sensors. It could be the oxygen sensor, the coil, the mass air flow meter, the catalytic converter,or even the potentiometer at the throttle that's at fault, or many other possible failures.... I'd suggest a diagnostics check via a mazda dealer, it's probably gonna be cheaper in the long run than changing parts willy-nilly till the problem has been found.

Hmmm - that's a bit of a bu99er - oh for the days of carburretors

splash2 wrote:Hmmm - that's a bit of a bu99er - oh for the days of carburretors

Indeed! pay no attention to me splash, i'm a consummate pessimist!

Have you checked the usual things like air filter box clamped properly,air filter unblocked, all engine breathers attached etc?

Check the Lamda Sensor.
It might F.U.B.A.R
Ask BDC if i was you,very knowledgeable man

Don't ask me dolly! I don't know owt!

I mentioned the oxygen sensor/lamda probe in my previous post.

(off the top of my head, cheffy and apole are the chaps to speak to regarding this).

Im no techi guy but i can't see the lambda, maf sensor making it stall on idle, would just run rich, there must some kind of idle control valve I've not had the prob, i fear apole may have had idling prob tho but not sure if that was connected to his gas, if it were me i'd look towards fuel starvation, the coil could be duff leads and other ignition parts, not sure about crank sensor aswell, diagnostics is the way to go if not an obvious prob I've heard some peeps have tried to adjust the idle, but in my thoughts i think that isn't really getting to the root of the prob, modern cars shouldn't really need playing with like that imo but that just me, i could ofcourse be completely wrong, i've had some probs finding someone with the right diags plug for mine, sounds daft i know but true but i have today been sent on another wild goose chase which might be poss but can't find the garage i have looked at reading the ecu myself with not much luck doesn't seem to tell me anything so either i got no fault or i'm not doing it right so wouldn't advise on it Is it just fading away are there any other symptons rough running a few off us have had some probs in ignition lately me included


Dar

PS my posts have had the kiss of death lately so sorry if no one else replies now

Dar

You shure all those pistons and electronicery aint going to your head? It dont matter how you fuel a petrol engine it needs air control. So if the flap controling air closes fully there must be a bypass for air flow, if there isnt the flap (buterfly) needs adjusting to allow air into the engine or the bypass maybe blocked.

The Great Pretender wrote: You shure all those pistons and electronicery aint going to your head? It dont matter how you fuel a petrol engine it needs air control. So if the flap controling air closes fully there must be a bypass for air flow, if there isnt the flap (buterfly) needs adjusting to allow air into the engine or the bypass maybe blocked.

HA haaaaaaaa my plan worked flaps buterflies but i am rite with the lambda tho suppose the sentence very low tickover kinda gives a bearing on what the reply shouldv'e been is there another name for these flaps/buterfly


Ps do i have pistons in my engine

Thanks for all of the replies - some food for thought there.

Is it just fading away are there any other symptons rough running

Nope. runs smooth as silk.

Hi there,

I have the same issue, suddenly one day in the summer the idle speed dropped to around 500 RPM. Fine normally, but sometimes if the AC cuts in etc it can stall. I have LPG but this is not connected as it does the same on petrol.

There is an idle control valve on the V6, researching the web it could be that this is gunked up and needs cleaning/replacing. Details of what is looks like are here:

http://www.yiparts.com/Part/en/RHFHF


It is however, very hard to get at. I'm therefore wondering if it's worth using some kind of foam inlet system cleaner, again this gets good reviews but that could be marketing over substance but I think it's worthwhile.

This is the cleaner:
http://www.ecotekplc.com/PowerBoost.htm

It receives mixed reviews however, many say it works, some don't as below:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=66184
Maybe try manual cleaning with carb cleaner first as this stuff is quite pricey.

Over time I have cleaned most of the electrical contacts on the engine (spray contact cleaner from maplins, and if poss fine wet dry paper) and ensured all things like earth connnects, ECU plugs etc are clean and well seated. I have yet to clean the MAF but will do so when it's warmer and I have time.

I'm also going to check all the vacuum hoses around the engine to ensure there are no leaks there.

I can't see the Lambda sensor having anything to do with the idle speed, or the MAF as they control mixture.

I have had my codes read and there is nothing registered, if you do it is possible to see the Lambda sensor, temp sensor etc in action.

I am awaiting a new disty cap and rotor arm, not sure if this will help the idle, but my car recently started missing sometimes (another story) and on investigation the contacts on the cap are very worn/burnt on some, and the rotor arm looks like an old sponge. Just cleaning it a bit has made a big difference, much more power and no missing so I'm hopeful that the new parts will make it run better. Can't see that improving the idle speed however.

Have you any other symptoms, how is your MPG for example? Are all your plugs and air filter clean, what colour are your plugs? Check the disty cap as a precaution, some get water contamination and mine was quite worn so it's worth checking anyhow.


Some web links I found for diagnosis ideas are:

http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/motronic.html

http://www.2carpros.com/first_things/wh ... t_idle.htm


If I find a solution I'll let you know.

Andy

Andy,

Thanks for that fantastic information. I hate these intermittent problems.

Leads & dizzy look good and all vacuum pipes are present and connected. I'll have a go at the idle control valve later today. One weird thing... sometimes, when warm, it's idling at around 500 rpm but, when I switch on AC it goes UP to around 700! I would have thought this should be the other way 'round

Hi,

No it's normal, on mine when the AC compressor kicks in (and the fan) the revs dip then increase, it must know the AC takes more power from the engine and increase to compensate.

BTW mine never stalls when warming up, it's when it's warm the tickover is lower.