Bongo Fury

Hello, I bought my 1995 Bongo last summer from a previous UK owner. I read recently that undersealing is a good idea but of little use if the damage is already done. He has done about 105,000 km. How do I know if its worth doing?

It's always worth doing. Get it checked for corrosion first and get any bad stuff fixed before applying the Waxoil . No need to bother about light surface rust, but make sure the underside has been pressure washed, to remove all mud etc., and allowed to dry fully before applying the underseal. Also, don't forget all the cavities - probably not the best time of year to do it.

francophile1947 wrote:It's always worth doing. Get it checked for corrosion first and get any bad stuff fixed before applying the Waxoil . No need to bother about light surface rust, but make sure the underside has been pressure washed, to remove all mud etc., and allowed to dry fully before applying the underseal. Also, don't forget all the cavities - probably not the best time of year to do it.

Spot on and - as Franco says - best after a warm dry spell so you aren't slapping over moist metalwork. Before you do it, have a serious prod about for any serious bits. Mine had been in UK 2yrs and was v good underneath and I had a quality waxoyl job done on it but found a localised long standing bit a year later which had gone right though. Easily welded by Wheelquick but easiest if you don't have to clean waxoyl off from around the area before welding.

"How do I know if its worth doing?"

If your Bongo hasn't rusted yet, then it's worth doing. If it has, then fix it and then do it!

If the car is mechanically sound, then it's worth looking after the body. If, for some strange reason, you only planned to keep the car for, say, a couple of years and then have it scrapped (!), then it's not worth doing.

Waxoyl, imo, is the best stuff to use. It won't trap water like a conventional undersealing compound might. It won't flake off. It won't chip. It has built-in rust suppressants. It lubricates cables and linkages. It will hugely aid the dismantling of nuts and bolts which have been treated. And I get 10% commission for every can sold. (Only kidding about that last one...)

It can also be thinned where necessary to allow it to get drawn by capillary action into some very important areas - the seams of the inner and outer wing panels, etc*. Apply as thick as possible to 'normal' areas such as the chassis, floor pan, etc.

*If you don't target these 'inner' areas too, the job will only be 'half' done.

If you already have concerns about rust, spray all underneath with "fish oil"

Penetrates existing rust, protects & dries hard.

lindeelu wrote:If you already have concerns about rust, spray all underneath with "fish oil"

Penetrates existing rust, protects & dries hard.

Blimey, you'd need a lot of those little capsules

Trouble at t'Mill wrote:It will hugely aid the dismantling of nuts and bolts which have been treated.

Just thought I'd pick up on this one as it interested me. I'd suspected it might be so, but didn't know. But when I had to remove my anti-roll bar brackets, I was one of those who had a relatively painless experience getting them undone (others had to grind them off etc.). I had a six-sided socket and extension bar, which I know helped. And having thick black Dinitrol/waxoyl gumming up my tools was irritating. But I did find myself thinking the the spraying solvent might well have wicked into the old dry rusty threads, and the wax had kept it there. Which meant that many months later I had nuts and bolts that were as prepped as old ones can be, ready for undoing.

Good tip there T-at-t'M

Hi Mike.

Waxoyling the Bongo took me back many, many years...

In the days of Austins and Morris', Waxoyl was an absolute godsend. Rear brake shoes had to be manually adjusted, and every time it was heart in mouth as to whether the tiny square adjusting nut would (a) round-off, or (b) sheer off completely

Then I discovered Waxoyl. The rear of the brake casings were given a liberal dose when doing the chassis - problem solved.

Trouble at t'Mill wrote:Hi Mike.

Waxoyling the Bongo took me back many, many years...

In the days of Austins and Morris', Waxoyl was an absolute godsend. Rear brake shoes had to be manually adjusted, and every time it was heart in mouth as to whether the tiny square adjusting nut would (a) round-off, or (b) sheer off completely

Then I discovered Waxoyl. The rear of the brake casings were given a liberal dose when doing the chassis - problem solved.

I remember those days well. I had 3 x Morris 1000, 1 x Wolsey 6/90, 1 x MG ZB Magnette, 1 x A35 van. Happy days overall - very happy days! I had never worked on a disc brake at all before I got the Bongo.

Ohmegawd - the Bongo has disc brakes...?