Bongo Fury

Chust being doing this using Waxoyl (ah - I remember the smell so well... )

A couple of things came to my attention whilst doing this: if people are suffering from rusting to the arches, it's worth noting that these areas are 'double-skinned'. By this I mean that if you feel under the arch lip from the outside, you aren't touching the back of the actual painted outer panel that's facing you. The wheel arches and the body 'wings' are two separate panels which are spot welded at the point where the lip or edge is. (Ok, stating the obvious here...)

The important point is that any undersealing which is applied under the wheel arches won't, therefore, be protecting the back of the outer wheel arch panel. What I did to hopefully help protect this area was to unscrew and remove the two rear 'oddments' trays (the little holders with the ash tray located above the rear wheel arches) which allows you to see this 'seam' from the inside. I sprayed a fair amount of Waxoyl down and along this chamber as far as I could (I had a short extension nozzle on my electric 'airless' sprayer). Similarly with the front panels, if you open the front doors fully, you'll see where the front wings join the rest of the body - with some pretty hefty gaps there! Again, fire some Wayoyl in there, all the way up and down the seam and past the door hinges. Of course, this is in addition to doing the actual arches themselves!

Have you seen where the sills meet the front wings at the bottom? Jeepers!!! What a gap!! On the driver's side, mine was full of mud and leaves

Blast this away with a hose, and spray copious amounts of Waxoyl in here too.

When I sprayed the actual outside under-arches, I bent the nozzle so that it aimed back towards me and fired it along the inside of the 'lips' whilst holding a cloth in my other hand to prevent any over-spray covering me. This left a line of Waxoyl visible on the lip which I plan to leave - it should neatly seal any gaps where the two panels join.

lI also noticed that the sill box-sections have a number of rubber plugs in them on the inner-underside of the sills. I plan to remove these and spray inside.

Ok, the downside to spraying 'inside' the car is the smell - but hopefully it should clear in a few days/weeks/months...

I also thinned the Waxoyl a fair bit so that the spray was finer and travelled further - I just sprayed more of it to compensate! It tends to 'creep' further when thinner, and should hopefully find its way by capillary action into all the seams.

Mucky.

Great tips there........take you enjoyed revisiting that classic solvent smell?

I'm lucky a chum does mine for a few beers & the cost of the Waxoyl...trade of course.....I take it to his bay.....make the tea, sit back and wait for him to do the business......

I like to "top" up Waxoyl annually on older vehicles, but that's just me

Good one trouble - I'd the back lights off mine for the same reason - the Waxoil was skooshed in from there too.

Thanks Mike - you lucky dog (jeepers, it's messy...)

Dandy, chust when I thought I was done...

Very good tip - ah well, more spraying tomorrow.

Cheers!

Good tip re the arches.

Worth mentioning, if you are spraying into bungs underneath the cills - remember the cill behind the drivers seat is full of air con and heater motors etc and may not like too much waxoil. Cant quite place the bungs to be sure, but just check to be safe.

Excellent tips there. That smell goes before you know it and just stay well ventilated until it does (brrrrr just now ), for the sake of your health.

To those reading, I had slight separation of spot welding on n/s rear inner and out wing skins on the wheel arch. I little rusting had resulted. I cleaned it up, Kurusted it, put some Sikaflex 221 into the gap, then clamped the two skins back to a close fit, wiping off excess mastic. I'm optimistic that will be an end to it!

Cheers for the extra tips, all.

Madmile, one of the other good things about Waxoyl is that it's pretty harmless to everything it touches (unless it's rust, of course...). I've thoroughly coated all the visible rubber and metal pipes and hoses, bushes, wiring, brakes pipes & hoses, nuts, bolts etc etc. Obviously I avoided the actual brakes themselves...

Anything that water/ road spray can possibly get to is fair game for the Waxoyl!

Trouble at t'Mill wrote:Cheers for the extra tips, all.

Madmile, one of the other good things about Waxoyl is that it's pretty harmless to everything it touches (unless it's rust, of course...). I've thoroughly coated all the visible rubber and metal pipes and hoses, bushes, wiring, brakes pipes & hoses, nuts, bolts etc etc. Obviously I avoided the actual brakes themselves...

Anything that water/ road spray can possibly get to is fair game for the Waxoyl!

Madmile is right I fear. Apart from the obvious danger to moving parts like fan motors, waxoyl could clog a heater / radiator matrix impairing its efficiency. As was explained to me when mine was done, you should also not apply it in areas like the autogearbox and differential where (apart from blocking breathers in the latter case) it might act as a thermal blanket and contribute to overheating of the unit in question. And let's face it, dismantling or otherwise working on anything that's covered in that goo is a pain in the *rse.

All valid stuff, Mike and Mad.

Waxoyl is, however, quite different from 'normal' underseal as it remains 'waxy' even when fully dry - it doesn't 'set' as such. It actually acts like a lubricant too so is perfectly fine (a plus, even) sprayed on to linkages and other moving parts - I can't see any way it could cause a problem with the operation of even the cooling fans. As for heater matrices, fair point if you really pile it on, but this was an area I avoided in any case. Even here, I suspect it would just melt and the excess drain off even if it had been sprayed.

As for acting as thermal insulation - to be honest I can't see it would make any measurable difference at all to these components.

Yes, any future mechanical work will now involve slippery fingers - but at least all the bolts will undo freely!!

Trouble at t'Mill wrote:As for acting as thermal insulation - to be honest I can't see it would make any measurable difference at all to these components.

These are not my words, but those of an ex fleet manager for Express Dairy vehicles, now working for a firm that does quality work waxoyling classic cars using Dinitrol products. This is how they approach their work, and I felt it best to defer to his skill and experience

But seriously, I would think carefully about spraying it liberally where there is engineering at work.

Some avoid waxoiling the rear diff casing for fears of over heating, i had mine done, no worries... The casing is vented.

Recently had a "waxoil top up" carried out, probably just as well, i had to drive on a dreaded gritted road this week!

Good tips Mr in' t mill...

Thanks Mike - oops, fair enough then! (I'm off out with my toothbrush to do some serious scrubbing...)*.

Cheers, Bigdaddy. Obviously peeps planning this job should take on board what Mike and Mad have said.


(*Not really - I'll take my chances - but point noted )

Trouble at t'Mill wrote:Thanks Mike - oops, fair enough then! (I'm off out with my toothbrush to do some serious scrubbing...)*.

Cheers, Bigdaddy. Obviously peeps planning this job should take on board what Mike and Mad have said.


(*Not really - I'll take my chances - but point noted )

No probs. I hated to keep returning to it, and most of the time I doubt it'd be an issue, but with peeps like Madmile and the Express Diary man talking as they did, and given their profesional experience, I reckoned it best that members think carefully just to be safe.

Just in case you were serious about the toothbrush, I shouldn't bother. I doubt very much there is anything to worry about, with luck!

I'm sure it'll be fine. Ta.

Regarding wax oil insulating, when it gets hot it "melts" and turns back to a liquid and runs off to a certain extent. I thought i had a leak on one of the pipes but it turned out to be the wax oil liquefying.