Bongo Fury

Whilst fitting a TM-2 Temp Alarm we have managed to "dead short" the Glow plug rail with the engine block....We found fuse 18 ... 10amp fuse for glow plugs,,,it had blown. Replaced it with a spare good fuse but the rail is still dead....Any ideas please....could it be the relay ??? if so...why...if the fuse has done it's job.
Thanks in advance.

Hi Haydn

I know nothing about these, only info gleened from the forum. It there some sort of fusable link for the glow/start system?. Don't laugh if I am completely wrong

What about the underbonnet fuses, main fuse or ignition maybe

Engine is turning fine and all fuses reported to be o.k....I.m not actually on site.

lizard wrote:Hi Haydn

I know nothing about these, only info gleened from the forum. It there some sort of fusable link for the glow/start system?. Don't laugh if I am completely wrong

By jove Lizard - I think you may be right http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... k&start=15

Thanks for that.....to dark to do much now.....Bongo started but no power to glow rail....will check out the Fuseable link in the morning.
Thanks fella's
Lets hope thats the only damage.

Hayden your a star Thank you very much for your help so far.

Yep its me I messed up and seam to have blown something and it sounds like the fusable link.
Now the questions

Now the problem is replacing it, the repair idea seams good but what am I looking for and what rating fuse would I use to bypass it?
If I go to a mazda dealer will they have one in stock?
Why was I so stupid to begin with?

As a temp stopgap...a 10amp would do no harm...same a glow plugs fuse...the link is probably slightly lower as you would really expect the main fuse to go first. Perhaps someone knows more ???
Lets hope thats what it is !!!

Might be worth a pm to Doone or Allan, as it was Doone that flagged it on the other thread.

Lizard...Franco...you are stars.....Where else can you get a problem sorted (hopefully) in 5 mins ???
Bloody wonderful...thanks
And anyone else thinking of fitting a TM-2....bolt it under the 2nd rocker bolt from the very front one or to the block on the exaust side(about 2 inches before the glow rail starts) ....Live and learn....thats what trials are for. We also learnt we need to either make the coolant alarm sensor wire longer or re route it via the passenger side firewall grommet if you are going to fit a combi alarm in your BMW clock..Also it's not a good idea to shorten the TM-2 sensor cable unless you are happy to resolder it.....The choc block connectors are not a good idea.
We will amend the instructions and lengthen the coolant sensor wire....live and learn

Problem botched so a temp fix found thanks all round and phew what a panic.

John and Lizard I owe you both a pint along with lorna (glass of wine) and jolly roger you all got me out of a huge bind as I'm due to take the family away tomorrow.

Hayden I owe you a bottle. Scotch?


btw needed a 30 amp fuse as it blew a 20

Luckily my father in law is a long time retired auto electrican so had bits lying around the garage.



these thing are best tested by idiots so to find the pitfalls.

I'm very qualified on that score

That was only a 10 amp fuse in the box you swapped.
Pleased its sorted.....Are you happy to finish off fitting the alarms ?? I could get over next week if it would help...Have to be daylight.

What blew a 20 amp???? was this after fixing ??

yep a 20 after it was fixed the fusable link seams to be quite high

yes the one in the fuse box is a 10 amp
I know nothing about these systems but acording to the bosses dad the fusable link is quite a high ampage

yes very happy to finish it all the fiddly stuff is done just reconnect the sensor (properly this time) and the live feed.

That doesn't make sense to me...why would your "fixed" link @20 amp go and not the 10amp fuse in the fuse box...anyone any suggestions??

Do "other things run via the fuseable link ?? e.g. Starter motor??