Replacing AT Fluid - further info.

[Trouble at t'Mill]

Bursting with confidence after reading the 'fact sheet' for this task, I set about this job on my Bongo (well, Freda - but 'Bongo' sounds sooo much better )

Very straight-forward even without ramps being used - but give yourself a nice bit of carpet to lie on at least. The tip I read on here to gently 'tap' (ideally with a rubber mallet) the sump pan after slackening all the screws (instead of 'prising' as in the info sheet) is a good one, and worked perfectly (I'm very wary about 'prising' anywhere near a 'mating' surface).

You'll need a large collecting pot to catch the oil as it then drips from all around the dislodged pan - you could make up a 'container' using a plastic sheet sitting in a simple rectangular wood frame sitting on the ground. I used a 5L plastic oil can to then support the pan in position whilst I undid the bolts fully, and gently lowered the pan tipping its contents into a container I had on stand-by. (If you have a pump to remove the oil first via the dip stick, then do so - but it's REALLY worth removing the sump pan afterwards for a good clean.)

Ok, my first bit of confusion! After removing the pan, I couldn't find the 'filter'! From the info sheet, I somehow expected it to be part of the removed pan, but all I found in there was a round magnet - with a nice coating of metal filings.

Instead, the filter is housed in its own small metal 'pan' which is recognisable by its square spout which protrudes downwards into the sump pan. It is secured by 4 bolts, and then it needs to be gently prised off (hand pull only) from where an upper short pipe from the pan (which has a rubber 'O' ring) engages with the rest of the gearbox. (This pipe is in the rear offside corner of the pan - you'll work out where the pan is being 'held'. Just get your fingers gently around there and prise it away.)

I used petrol to wash out this filter as it's a great solvent of oil and its deposits. I covered the outlet, and poured a little into the square spout. A good shake, and then pour away. Lather, rinse, repeat. (I found some tiny metal particles being washed out - clearly the filter was doing its job!) Allow the filter to dry fully (doesn't take long) and then rinse it out with AT fluid.

(I don't really need to mention safety as regards petrol, do I...?)

Pull off the circular magnet, and give it and the pan insides a good wipe out.

Reassemble!

I cleaned up the mating surfaces and applied the tiniest smear of liquid gasket onto the exiting gasket on the pan, then bolted it back up. (Make sure all the bolts are located before you fully tighten any of them.)

To refill, I hunted around my garage and found some 15mm plastic plumbing pipe. A 2' length of this, with a straight coupler and a garden hose connector attached to the top end made a perfect filling pipe - I was able to pour straight into this from the 5L oil can.

I started checking the level once 4 litres had been added. And, check...and check... and...

Jeepers, it took nearly 5L to get the level correct (yes, warm 'box, in 'Drive', engine running!) and I was starting to panic a bit. I guess, having removed the pan, the 'box was completely dry?

Great feeling of satisfaction, and the 'box (which was always actually ok) is genuinely noticeably smoother.

[Ian]

Excellent! Fact sheet amendment!

[mikeonb4c]

Excellent.

I was looking at doing mine (or getting it done) but advice from Wheelquick was not to interfere if colour / smell / gearbox behaviour all seem fine. So I'm now in a quandary

[Trouble at t'Mill]

Difficult for anyone else to suggest whether you should do the job, Mike - only you know your DIY capabilities

However, it is certainly not a demanding task by any stretch of the imagination - it's all a very straight-forward and predictable.

The oil in my car looked ok on the dipstick - pink enough. It was only when it was drained into a bucket that you could really see how dark it was compared to the new stuff. The magnet in the sump was also doing a good job of attracting any filings (very, very fine filings!), but the sheer satisfaction of knowing it's all spotless in there is hard to beat!

Little doubt, tho', that a 'pumped' oil changed will be perfectly adequate. The decision - is yours!

[dandywarhol]

Excellent.

I was looking at doing mine (or getting it done) but advice from Wheelquick was not to interfere if colour / smell / gearbox behaviour all seem fine. So I'm now in a quandary

So why would the manufacturers say that the fluid should be changed at 40,000km/25,000 miles

I know I'll get shot down for this but there's been a few things on here been quoted by Wheelquick which don't ring true/make sense

[stringman]

Also be careful when removing the filter as there are some sharp edges in there (clumsy old me cut my thumb quite badly doing this!)

To fill up I bought a 5 litre bottle and a 1 litre as I read I may need as much as 6 litres. The 1 litre bottle came with a tube attached so I just put the oil in a litre at a time using this and it went in fine.

Mine is a 1996 2 wheel drive on about 100000 km and I must say that I noticed an immediate improvement in driveability after the oil change.

[mikeonb4c]

Excellent.

I was looking at doing mine (or getting it done) but advice from Wheelquick was not to interfere if colour / smell / gearbox behaviour all seem fine. So I'm now in a quandary

So why would the manufacturers say that the fluid should be changed at 40,000km/25,000 miles

I know I'll get shot down for this but there's been a few things on here been quoted by Wheelquick which don't ring true/make sense

Noted Dandy. I think I may schedule it for doing over the Xmas break. I'd like to DIY it - just concerned to make sure I keep everything squeaky clean in the process. Also don't think my ageing body could manage without using ramps, so hope fluid tray not being on level doesn't cause spillage etc.

But it must be at least 25k since it was done, even though the box is changing beautifully.

[francophile1947]

I thought my gear change was fine, until I changed the fluid - what a difference
The fluid looked good on the dipstick, but was mucky when I drained it.

[Trouble at t'Mill]

Mike et al, the good thing about the 'cleanliness' aspect is that all the exposed gubbins are facing downwards so you aren't likely to drop anything into it! However, if you are doing it outside (like I did) make sure it isn't a windy day that could blow dust around.

On a connected point, the fact sheet says to check the oil level with the car in 'Drive', whereas on the Allans Vehicle Services website it says to be in 'Park'. Which is correct, please - or does it actually make any difference?

Thanks all.

[dandywarhol]

Less splash in DRIVE and a more accurate reading.

[bongomaan]

when i did mine i think i completely wasted my time becase i forgot to flush the pipes going to the rad,does anybody know how to do this please....

[dandywarhol]

Difficult to do properly - I used to have a rig set up using a power steering pump to pump fluid around to clear it. apart from that I don't know an effective way of doing it,

[mikeonb4c]

Mike et al, the good thing about the 'cleanliness' aspect is that all the exposed gubbins are facing downwards so you aren't likely to drop anything into it! However, if you are doing it outside (like I did) make sure it isn't a windy day that could blow dust around.

On a connected point, the fact sheet says to check the oil level with the car in 'Drive', whereas on the Allans Vehicle Services website it says to be in 'Park'. Which is correct, please - or does it actually make any difference?

Thanks all.

Very good advice indeed, which I will heed.

bongomaan mentions about a 'rad'. I know nothing about the autobox and never realised it had a rad. Where's that then (on the Bongo!) and what's it all about?

[bongomaan]

i believe its on the bottom of coolant rad,if you follow the pipes out of the bottom of the box you will see it. i think there are three rads on the bongo one for coolant,one for the autobox and one for the aircon,but as it happened my it was a last attempt to save my autobox changing the aft and a week later it failed and it had to go to bell hill and they sorted it out....bleeding expensive do...but beware of going to unbongo friendly "autobox specialists",i did and without looking properly they quoted me £1800 squid to replace it they were not interested in solenoid packs or anything just replacing the hole thing.