Bongo Fury

Well I've tried tried and tried again, still the same. Starts, but very lumpy, press the accelerator and slows rather than revs, all the time blowing out diesel fumes. The timing is spot on, even checked it with the fly wheel, everything top dead centre. I thought I might have made a muck up with the rockers, checked them, seems a bit confusing in the manual, does it mean 0.20 & 0.10 mm or is it 0.020 & 0.010 ins, anyway I've tried both and it hasn't made a difference that noticable.
I have serviced the injectors and followed the book with them, haven't got the pressure tools to check them as it says in the manual. Could my problem be those? Please solve it some-one. Wish we lived in Plymouth Allan. Hopefully Tom.

Oh dear Tom you're having a really bad time of it. So are you saying it will start and tick over? It's when you put some revs on it fades away? Where are the diesel fumes blowing out from, the exhaust? - unburnt fuel? If the case then blocked injectors or a fault with the fuel pump or settings?

Did you cure the problem with fuel spitting out from the seals for the injectors? Daft questions time now, you've no doubt been right through the Fuel and Pump section but have you double checked the vac hoses to the pump diaphragm are on and connected the right way? EGR stuck? Try disabling it.
Dunno Tom, you need another pair of eyes to look at it I fear...

Tom

The clearances are:

INLET, 0.05 - 1.05 millimeters
EXHAUST, 1.05 - 2.05mm.

All set COLD - I think inches and Japanese went out with Pearl Harbour

I set mine to the lower value for that extra bit of crispnes on acceleration - they were ALL wider than spec.

Yes I got some copper washers and the injectors aren't leaking. How do I disable the EGR simply, going by previous threads it isn't needed anyway, I would need a good discription, as I'm not to bright at the moment. All the vacuum pipes that I can see are on, the pair that could be wrong are the pair that come down through the inlet manifold and go on to the pump, if they are the wrong way round would it have any effect, one seems slightly larger id that the other so I've slipped them on the ones they fit best, could be wrong though.Thanks for your input Ian. Tom

Dandwarhol, do you mean 0.10 and 0.20 mm?

Yes but with a 0.05mm tolerance each way............that's what the manual says

One more question. How do you keep the taut side of the timing belt taut when putting it on, it always wants to jump back slack again, I've tried several methods but it isn't as taut as it should be, I'm going to have another try tomorrow as it has to be something simple that I'm just not getting right.

Once the belf is on I turn the crankshaft a fraction anticlock to tighten the belt and recheck the mark is still right with a mirror - then set the tensioner on th eslack side. Turn the crank again 2 ful turns to recheck. Takes a bit of time at first to see the "mirror" image

dandywarhol wrote:Yes but with a 0.05mm tolerance each way............that's what the manual says

0.1 and 0.2mm? Isnt that 4 thou and 8 thousand of an inch.
Think that you may have misread Oldgit

Ok - for the pre Pearl Harbour ones amongst us - 2 to 6 thou. inlet and 6 to 10 thou. zorst

dandywarhol wrote:Ok - for the pre Pearl Harbour ones amongst us - 2 to 6 thou. inlet and 6 to 10 thou. zorst

Bloody hell.............Prefer Dunkirk and Bull dogs, guys in skirts playing or making a noise with a silly contraption.

Well Tom I know you've done the timing over and over but it's still the obvious cause. However if you want to disable the EGR easily there's a good explanation here with a picture http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... ifold+gunk

Let's hope you have a good day with it today. I think you are well overdue for some good luck!

Thanks Ian, I'll do that blanking off while I'm at it. Cheers Tom

Not related to my troubles, but when I remove my watch and put it in the passenger foot well, when I pick it up later it has always stopped, strange. Tom