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Headlight
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:02 pm
by Peg leg Pete
Was told by my dear wife that the fullbeam was not working correctly, so I checked out the faulty driver side bulb, bulb fine, apart from being a 80 watt bulb that I am told is illegal. The problem is the 3 pin adapter that the bulb connects to, it has melted on one side and that is why the bulb is erratically working. I have replaced both the front headlights for correct wattage bulbs, but wonder what has caused the problem????? Pippin will know

p.s. have ordered a replacement adapter from unifit, will I be o.k. connecting with a block connector?
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:16 pm
by bigdaddycain
The problem has probably occured from using a higher wattage bulb than is recommended pete,the higher wattage means a higher resitance also.
What's the story with the 3 pin adaptor? I assume you don't mean the original block that plugs onto the headlight bulb?
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:18 pm
by Peg leg Pete
That is the fellow

I hope to be able to repair tomorrow

them bulbs haxve been in since we got the bongo, so running 3 years before any problems, they have got through 3 m.o.t's too

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:45 pm
by bigdaddycain
I see pete, so they have held up pretty well all things considered....
I guess you are chopping off the old plug,then connecting the replacement?
I'd suggest soldering and heat shrinking the new contacts pete,scotch block them as a temporary measure,i'm thinking of long term reliability here pete.

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:50 pm
by Peg leg Pete
Sound advice, I will dig out the soldering iron

Thanks Ste

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:54 pm
by bigdaddycain
No probs pete, hope it goes ok for ya... Just don't do my classic trick of forgetting to slip the heatshrink over the wire BEFORE the soldering is done!

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:55 pm
by dandywarhol
A higher wattage wil have LESS resistance therefore more current. It's the current which the connector/wires can't handle.
Unless the connectors/wires are up to it all you can succeed in doing is have a slightly brighter lamp and lovely hot wires

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:07 pm
by bigdaddycain
dandywarhol wrote:A higher wattage wil have LESS resistance therefore more current.
Of course,i knew it was something like that....

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 11:14 pm
by Peg leg Pete
Thanks guys, will remember the heatshrink

Both bulbs replaced so hope the wires keep their cool, just like me after drinking my valentine wine

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 11:23 pm
by missfixit70
If the bulb was working erratically & the fitting melted I would guess that the connector had a dodgy connection, maybe oxidised, creating heat as it arcs across like a welder. Happened to a relay under the dash on my old 2.8 4x4 sierra, was smoking nicely, about to catch fire, just because of an oxidised connection

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 11:27 pm
by Peg leg Pete
You are quite correct

Obvious signs of arcing and oxidation on the connector I will be replacing

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 11:32 pm
by dp bradford
Peg leg Pete wrote:....will remember the heatshrink....
I think we've all been there at some time

Some years ago, I remember soldering every connection in a 25 way D connector (old style parallel computer interconnect) and then realising the die-cast cover should have been slipped into place first
Dave

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 11:35 pm
by Peg leg Pete
Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 11:51 pm
by Peg leg Pete
I fit a new bulb holder, had to fit with connector block, I was working outside and my poor little soldering iron could not generate enough heat to melt the solder

So all wrapped up in gaffer tape, till the weather warms up a little

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:07 am
by bigdaddycain
Just keep an eye on it pete,the tape should do just fine for the time being, i know hat you mean with the cold finger thing,i helped to fit two flushed fogs into dabs' bongo today, and my thumbs have just thawed out!
