Page 1 of 1
Front drop links / stabilizers, hints please
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 9:10 pm
by brorabongo
Hi all
I will need to do my front links as I have the Knocking sound at low speed over bunps/potholes etc I got it confirmed by the mechanic when he did my timing belt. I was wondering how to attack it. Can it be done one side at a time by removing the wheel? or to I attack her from underneath with both wheels off the ground? any tips/hints will be greatly received.
Cheers
Donald
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 9:21 pm
by neil/di
doing mine tomorrow Donald, will let you know
Neil
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:57 pm
by dandywarhol
Also check the anti roll bar bushes Donald - I bought a pair of links, convinced mine were worn and it turned out to be the bushes in the 'bar clamps.
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:03 pm
by Harry
Dandy:
Anti roll bar bushes on the front?
Am I missing something here.
Not trying to be sarky but a little confused.
H
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:06 pm
by dandywarhol
Aye........anti roll bar bushes on the front Harry.............the anti roll bar connect onto the drop links

Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:19 pm
by Harry
Well bUUUUr me...I've only ever checked me back ones.
Recently informed on the annual service that nearside front and rear drag links are worn...I preshume they mean drop links...must get them to check front AR bushes as well then..
cheers
H
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:29 pm
by brorabongo
Thanks all
The guy that did my timer belt, a self employed mechanic checked the front set-up and said it ws the links that are slightly worn but not needed to be replace promptly. I want to change them asap as the clunking is annoying me

He also said that worn drop links is not an mot failure
Neil - please do let us know how you get on, cheers.
Will it be the same bushes allround ?
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:46 pm
by Simon Jones
Did my front drop links the other week - what a nightmare! The easiest way is to jack up both wheels to remove the weight from the links. The biggest problem was getting the old ones off. The metal nut on the body of the joint is softer than the socket & spanner used so I just ended up chewing up the metal. I soaked it in WD40 first, then used a blow lamp & hammer to try to shock then loose but only one side came off using this method. On the other side, I had to resort to an angle grinder to cut through the ball part of the joint & then gradually grind away the body until it was flush with the anti-roll bar. If it hadn't been for this, I reckon half an hour per side would be achievable. For me, it to about 4 hours for the pair, which included putting it all back together to drive to another location with power for the angle grinder. Worth noting that a ball joing splitter was not required as it came out quite easily from both ends.
Good luck - I hope your nuts are tougher than mine

Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:49 pm
by dandywarhol
They can be a barsteward Simon
The ball joint splitter isn't needed cos the pins aren't on a taper...........

Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:59 pm
by brorabongo
Simon Jones wrote:
Good luck - I hope your nuts are tougher than mine


Thanks, I think
Aye but did you use six sided sockets or 12? point sockets/spanners which just grab at the corner of the nut/bolt rather than the sides like the six sider( I dont know about six sider but I might end up giving-up and having six ciders!!)