Page 1 of 2
New front fan motor question
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:20 am
by Malc Mitchell
Hello all,
Just a quick query that may have been covered before but I just need some clarification please.
My front heater motor burned out recently and after a couple of futile attempts at repairing it I bit the bullet and bought a new one from 'Bongo Bits'. I popped it in last night (steady!) and the motor now works fine but only when the control is set on full speed. I'm sure that it worked on all other settings before the replacement - is this the resistor playing up or something else to do with the various speeds?
My fan motor failure, by the way, was caused by a rusted bottom bearing due to water ingress - I notice that the new motor has an extra drain channel on the rubber tube to prevent this common problem.
Many thanks,
Malc.

Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:35 am
by Malc Mitchell
Just an extra query, if it is the resistor as mentioned in previous posts, which wires need re-soldering? Are they inside the resistor or on the top?
Many thanks - Im learning!!
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:04 pm
by Lewy
Malc - the resistor needs to be split by carefully easing the 4 corner twines closed and then pulling the two halves apart. You should then see where the contacts have come away from each other - resolder and bingo.
You should be able to see if they have come adrift before splitting the unit too once you've unplugged it and removed it from the van - if its not the resistor i'm not sure what your problem might be.
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:16 pm
by mikeonb4c
Malc - discussed a lot before, but I'm told the drain channel from the windscreen blocks causing water to overflow onto the motor and rusting/seizing it up. As it tightens up, the motor draws excessive current and overloads resistors and burns them out. You've fixed the motor, now to make sure the resistor is OK and the channel is not blocked (and check regularly to ensure it stays unblocked)
Mike

Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:06 pm
by waycar8
as above...............i had the same problem when i bought mine.
i got my fan motor working, then it would only work on the max setting, so i stripped the resistor, but the solder were still in place so i had to buy a new one. fixed the problem. but the drainage hole in the middle of the windscreen was still blocked so it did it again, fans only worked on highest setting.
stripped the motor out again, the bushes melted so i bought a new one, (but the ressistor was ok).
so i had to keep fastening it all up to go to work in the bongo so then i had an after thought after i had got it working again.
why didnt i take the resistor out of the rear unit and put it in the front rather than having a half stripped heating system under the bonnet waiting for my parts

.
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:31 pm
by Malc Mitchell
Right! - I've got the resistor out and it's here in my sweaty little mit - but I still can't remove the innards from the aluminium finned casting - it seems loose but I don't want to pull it too hard in case I mess it up! I can't see any 'corner twines' Lewy - all I am looking at is the top of the green printed circuit board with the spade terminals and components soldered to it - what do I do now please anyone?
Malc

Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:40 pm
by Malc Mitchell
This resistor is from the climate control version by the way, it's different from the straight air-con version which might be the one that Lewy was refering to?
Malc.
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:30 pm
by Malc Mitchell
Well, I've found the problem! To get into the climate - control resistor unit you have to unsolder the three joints to the side of the circuit board so that you can lift it away from the casting exposing the 'Brain microchip' that is screwed to the inside of the casing that does all of the temperature sensing. There I found a chunk of the sensor had been blown out completely, probably when the motor seized and cooked.
Thanks for all the help anyway all - looks like I'll be on the phone to Bongo Bits in the morning!!
Cheers (with glass of consoling cider in hand)
Malc.
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:01 pm
by francophile1947
Hi Malc
Pity it wasn't the simple (and cheap) fix.
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:37 am
by Malc Mitchell
Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 1:39 pm
by mikeonb4c
But still, once its sorted and you remember to keep that drain channel unblocked, that should be the end of it hopefully.
Good luck
Mike

Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 2:36 pm
by Malc Mitchell
New resistor in - drain channel unblocked - heater working on all speeds - happy bunny!!
Thanks Mike, John et al.
Malc

Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 2:39 pm
by francophile1947
Good for you Malc.
By the way, is it only me that can't see your avatar?
Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 2:49 pm
by Malc Mitchell
No John, it's not only you - it just disappeared! Just replaced it though - like your Natalie Casey pic though! - what is it about nurses uniforms !!
Malc.
Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:01 pm
by francophile1947
Malc Mitchell wrote:No John, it's not only you - it just disappeared! Just replaced it though - like your Natalie Casey pic though! -
what is it about nurses uniforms !!
Malc.
Especially when they are PVC/rubber
