Bongo Fury

rita wrote:For what its worth I only use Blueprint ADC 42105 oil filters, they are fitted with a NRV.

You could also go to the Compatible parts database and have a wee look.

Ah cheers for that, maybe next time. I just picked up the new Crosland now. And the new camshaft locating dowel from Mazda... should be about there for parts now!

mikeonb4c wrote:

rita wrote:For what its worth I only use Blueprint ADC 42105 oil filters, they are fitted with a NRV.

You could also go to the Compatible parts database and have a wee look.

Interesting that. Would a symptom of not having a non return valve be a short interval of noisier engine running and dashboard oil pressure light staying on? Is it easy to identify which products have an NRV when buying online etc?

Quite likely yes, particularly if you are running thin/old oil or dont start it very often.

bongovi wrote:

rita wrote:For what its worth I only use Blueprint ADC 42105 oil filters, they are fitted with a NRV.

You could also go to the Compatible parts database and have a wee look.

Ah cheers for that, maybe next time. I just picked up the new Crosland now. And the new camshaft locating dowel from Mazda... should be about there for parts now!

Did you get the massive turbo?

Um-Bongo wrote:

bongovi wrote:

rita wrote:For what its worth I only use Blueprint ADC 42105 oil filters, they are fitted with a NRV.

You could also go to the Compatible parts database and have a wee look.

Ah cheers for that, maybe next time. I just picked up the new Crosland now. And the new camshaft locating dowel from Mazda... should be about there for parts now!

Did you get the massive turbo?

Fingers crossed no more parts required. Ricing a Bongo... now there's a thought. You know I'd convert it to electric given a half decent chance though.

Cheers for the reply Um-Bongo. Now to make sure i can identify bongo filters with NRV for my next purchase.

Right. Update time.

It's mostly reassembled, after 2 further sessions over the weekend. Um-Bongo again made the impossible possible. Some highlights:

- Had to go out and find a 38mm socket for the crankshaft. No neighbours had one (HGV drivers), but local garage did.
- Belt aligned nicely after that. Piston did seem to emerge higher than the bore, but perhaps that's a gasket/headroom thing?
- Everything else went back on OK, fingers crossed. A few missing nuts from the exhaust studs, need to pick up some more M8s for those.
- Reading the instructions from the Ranger manual, after putting the head bolts back on in order, we saw it recommended sealant. Um-Bongo hadn't seen that before on a dry gasket.
- We raised eyebrows at the specific torque measurements, finished by two '90 to 105 degree' turns. Odd to finish off the specific with a more vague turn angle...
- Vac hoses fixed nicely with the ebay replacements. Just two more to fix... One of which has 'something' in it, which Um-Bongo wondered might have been an NRV, anyone know? It's the hose that goes into the air pipe around the back of the engine. It snapped just above the 'something' blob.

Otherwise soon ready to flush the engine, fill coolant and hopefully turn it over at the next session.

Bit of a drawn out thread, this one, but hopefully of use in the future in some small way (as everyone's Bongo continues to age...).

Actually the "Torque X + Y degrees" is fairly normal where stretch-bolts are involved - why not just specify a torque? I had a look and it seems more common on alloy heads, where the dry bolt head has a tendency to "stick" to the aluminium when past the low initial measured torque, meaning actual measured torque can be dramatically different to the real torque applied.


But silicon sealant on the head gasket??!?!!!!?? err no.

Fingers crossed for you bongovi. Keep us posted.

Um-Bongo wrote:Actually the "Torque X + Y degrees" is fairly normal where stretch-bolts are involved - why not just specify a torque? I had a look and it seems more common on alloy heads, where the dry bolt head has a tendency to "stick" to the aluminium, meaning actual measured torque can be dramatically different to the real torque applied.


But silicon sealant on the head gasket??!?!!!!?? err no.

I think i've read of at least one Bongo head gasket being happily put on with suitable sealant (Simon Jones i think it was, some years back). But not silicon sealant, though i didn't think he said it was?

AFAIK, MLS head gaskets are designed to be used dry (They have a thin coating that melts into the surfaces)


I wasnt actually reading the howto, bongovi was, not sure it it said silicon...

Um-Bongo wrote:I wasnt actually reading the howto, bongovi was, not sure it it said silicon...

Just checked, it did say silicon on page 19, then a diagram points the sealant to the front part of the block, where that off-kilter rectangle was. 2-3mm of it.

@mikeonb4c, cheers. Will be updating...

Not a criticism of anyone or their practices and agree gasket shouldn't need sealant from what most say, but wanted to clarify that i think one or two mistrustful souls have used sealant as belt and braces with happy outcome (so the OP doesn't worry too much if they've used an appropriate sealant and its too late to undo). What guide is recommending silicon sealant out of interest?

If i find a moment and can trace Simon Jones post i'll put a link up. I do recall that thorough cleaning and flatting/decking of block was a key concern.

Edit: here we go

http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... alant+head

mikeonb4c wrote:Not a criticism of anyone or their practices and agree gasket shouldn't need sealant from what most say, but wanted to clarify that i think one or two mistrustful souls have used sealant as belt and braces with happy outcome (so the OP doesn't worry too much if they've used an appropriate sealant ans its too late to undo). What guide is recommending silicon sealant out of interest?

If i find a moment and can trace Simon Jones post i'll put a link up. I do recall that thorough cleaning and flatting of block wasxa key concern.

Cheers - it was that we *didn't* use when the Ranger manual says to use it. Bongolia posted the manual link for that:

bongolia wrote:This link from Teenmal may be of interest. Same engine.
http://www.manualesdemecanica.com/image ... 6cf9ca.pdf

It's pg 19 with the sealant advice. We're torqued down now, so a bit too late to add, but as Um-Bongo says, it's hopefully a non-issue.

I think I've seen the post you're referring to in my various forum searches. And the factsheets say something about using a red sealant with no issues, even if frowned upon.

All sounds good. Cleaning and decking is the main thing i reckon and i'm pretty sure thats all my v experienced Bongo mechanic did when replacing mine.

Mostly to Um-Bongo:

The valve clearances were set before it was delivered, the folks at Wigan Engines say they always do that.

Also the block, they confirmed, was new. The recon on the receipt referred to the re-used parts. Seals etc. were new.

(For ref, this was the ad that lead me to ring them to buy one outside of ebay (with belt + gaskets + bolts) for around £500 all in: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-RANGER-M ... 7675.l2557)