Bongo Fury

that's exactly the same unit i have , and Ive wired it up exactly the same as you mentioned.
Simon do you have a link for the one you have ,so that i can compare.

daveblueozzie wrote:that's exactly the same unit i have , and Ive wired it up exactly the same as you mentioned.
Simon do you have a link for the one you have ,so that i can compare.

You're not using the yellow (centre) wire are you? - I accidentally did this first and got some very strange readings. I think the yellow is surplus to requirements!

no not using the yellow wire, like i said exactly the same as you have ,bit of a puzzle really.

This is nearly the same as mine. It looks like the only difference is that it IS polarity-sensitive, so must be connected the right way round.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Blue-LCD-Volt-Met ... m153.l1262

Simon can this be wired to the ignition (switch live) so its not on all the time only as the engine is switched on.

That's the great thing about the two wire version - just wire it in parallel with something that is connected to the supply you want to measure. Effectively, mine is wired to the radio, so it measures the supply which can be either LB or SB as controlled by another switch. I added the toggle switch shown in the photo so I could switch it off independantly from the supply, such as when its not in use. I also modd'ed the backlight to be controlled from the same switch, because I didn't want it glowing all night long.

ok thanks guys, that has given me a bit of hope that i can get something sorted.

There's the key right there dave with simon's set up.... Great posts simon, just what we need.

The original set-up with the battery tester was fine, but used a 9volt battery to power it up. I assumed the "spare" (yellow) wire was for a switched feed, so i then moved the idea onto it being powered up as the ignition was switched to "acc", so that a reading could be attained simply by switching on the ignition.

Your set up is better simon, as it covers all options, i feel a spot of copying in the pipeline if you are willing to divulge the info of course!

I had contemplated making up a few kits of units with the blanking plates so they would just slot in the spare hole as shown in the picture. However, that's on the the long 'to do' list for next year, so in the meantime I'm happy for the idea to be used & adapted as required. If I get a chance, I'll post a picture of the back of the panel later.

Looks like I'm going to go with Simon's tester he recommended ,have ordered two ,one for me and one for BDC , because i nicked the one he had
Will let you know how we get on.

teenmal wrote:http://cgi.ebay.com/3-1-2-Blue-LCD-Digi ... m153.l1262

Hi Dave,read down to the Q&A,and do not connect this unit to the ignition.

Cheers Mal..

teenmal wrote:

teenmal wrote:http://cgi.ebay.com/3-1-2-Blue-LCD-Digi ... m153.l1262

Hi Dave,read down to the Q&A,and do not connect this unit to the ignition.

Cheers Mal..

having read what everyone has said ,and what i have tried to do, i come to the same conclusion MAL. not to go direct to ignition. i think it will be a direct connection to the LB with a switch .

daveblueozzie wrote:
Will let you know how we get on.

The blind leading the blind...

I was gonna knock up a shroud to mount the gauge into the cubby section of my BMW clock, (if it fits)

Right here is an update ,i received the digital display unit that Simon recommended (just 2 wires) and fitted a micro switch onto the actual unit ,so it still fits in the space next to my clock. i will wire it direct to the LB and then will be able to tell what the condition of the LB is regarding being charged or running flat.
a few pics of my handy work.







cost of the digital display about £10
cost of micro switch £2.50.

Very neat that is Dave.