Bongo Fury

Nice one!
Should be sorted for a good few years now.
I have to confess I have been pushing this job to the back of my list, not looking forward to it at all.
The images posted are going to be a great help,thanks.

To be fair Gerry/Paul probably wouldn't tackle it in the same way again, they said. Given that none of it is structural, they would now cut out the old, sort any remaining rust, then cut out from a donor vehicle sheets that would pop inside with an overlap so that they could be welded much more simply than a butt weld, then fill the depression as its very shallow.

Personally, i'd be tempted to use the roof/bodywork to make a grp mould then make a grp overcladding piece. Cold casting and corrosion free materials appeal to me, as does trying something completely different in approach

And of course the mould could be reused if other people want a similar job done

g8dhe wrote:To be fair Gerry/Paul probably wouldn't tackle it in the same way again, they said. Given that none of it is structural, they would now cut out the old, sort any remaining rust, then cut out from a donor vehicle sheets that would pop inside with an overlap so that they could be welded much more simply than a butt weld, then fill the depression as its very shallow.

Yes, I think that`s the way I will go. Better to bring it to level than try to feather it out across the panel,
makes for an easier weld too,the metal is surprisingly thin,but then its only a cover.
Totally agree on the waxoyl too. As important as the arches in my opinion.

mikeonb4c wrote:Personally, i'd be tempted to use the roof/bodywork to make a grp mould then make a grp overcladding piece. Cold casting and corrosion free materials appeal to me, as does trying something completely different in approach

And of course the mould could be reused if other people want a similar job done

True, that is an alternative approach . It is dependent on the structure though. In the case of the Wasp that is pretty shot so there are repairs needed to that.
I suppose I could take a cast from the Aero and make a cap.
I have the OS arch to do now and then all that remains of the obvious corrosion is the roof. I may take the weekend off and have a think on it.

Interested to see how these previous roof repairs are bearing up after 2 years .... Any comments? I've had rust spots like that along the spot welds in the gutter (treated them with jenolite then primer and spraycan - not ideal, as all done outside, in a tent :~) but also a couple of holes on the nearside above gutter line. Put in some waxoyl then covered with aluminium speedtape (as used on airliners ...) ... But really need a proper fix ....

They have been fine, no problems visible at all, if its dry tomorrow I'll try to pop out and take some photo's.

OK here is the update pictures 2.5 years on ....
http://www.g8dhe.net/bongo_images/tin_w ... php?ind=50

Thanks for that. Been having some arch and sill work done on my beloved Beryl by Bongo Spares in Sowerby, and how to do the smallish roof patches was a discussion point. I believe they have ended up sanding, kurusting and filling .. I'd be a lot happier if there is waxoyl inside too ... otherwise it might just be cut and weld in a year or two ....