Bongo Fury

Thanks guys, since I'm not based near a really good specialist bongo mechanic (I don't think). The van is in Brighton/Lewes. I think it might be a good plan to get a recon one. Does seem that it's likely a fuel pump issue - as it sounds to my untrained ear, correct me if I'm wrong?

Where would one buy a reconditioned pump?

I will of corse work through the simpler fixes here first. Don't want to spend a bunch of cash on parts if it's just a dodgy fuel cap!

Realistically though, if 2 mechanics have had a good look at the whole fuel system, including the pump and not reported any problems. Does it seem likely to be something trivial or something serious? I'm not sure how worried to be!

Unfortunately it's a matter of what's possible and what's more or less likely. Probably usually costs more time to find the problem than fix it unless it turns out necessary to remove the fuel pump.
If you are left with having to renew the internal fuel pump seals your cheapest option would be a bongo specialist who can remove the pump and renew the seals in house. Next on the cost scale is probably to get a refurb pump from George at Bongospares and have a local mechanic replace the pump. I believe George does it in 30 mins but a non-specialist may want a couple of hours. It does really depend on what professionals you have within reach.

click on this link then the picture to enlarge it.

http://www.bongospares.co.uk/product-tag/recon-pump/.

heres the seal kit to give you some idea of whats involved in doing it yourself if your a brain surgeon, and have the eyes of a 6 year old and the patience of a saint.

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/gaske ... it-1995-03.

or theres this route.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-BONGO-2 ... 1900096216

Northern Bongolow wrote:click on this link then the picture to enlarge it.

http://www.bongospares.co.uk/product-tag/recon-pump/.

heres the seal kit to give you some idea of whats involved in doing it yourself if your a brain surgeon, and have the eyes of a 6 year old and the patience of a saint.

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/gaske ... it-1995-03.

or theres this route.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-BONGO-2 ... 1900096216

Thanks so much for this, from all the comments. It now seems that it's likely a fuel pump issue, but it does seem that it would be best to work through some of the little fixes - check the oil for diesel etc - before jumping to a new pump. Would I be right?

So many comments and different options that I can't see the wood for the trees. (Doesn't help that I'm pretty clueless)

Thanks all

I went for the reconditioned pump from Bongospares, I'm very happy with it too

Sound job, thanks for the update.

joethornber wrote:

Northern Bongolow wrote:click on this link then the picture to enlarge it.

http://www.bongospares.co.uk/product-tag/recon-pump/.

heres the seal kit to give you some idea of whats involved in doing it yourself if your a brain surgeon, and have the eyes of a 6 year old and the patience of a saint.

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/gaske ... it-1995-03.

or theres this route.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-BONGO-2 ... 1900096216

Thanks so much for this, from all the comments. It now seems that it's likely a fuel pump issue, but it does seem that it would be best to work through some of the little fixes - check the oil for diesel etc - before jumping to a new pump. Would I be right?

So many comments and different options that I can't see the wood for the trees. (Doesn't help that I'm pretty clueless)

Thanks all

Before resorting to buying a new pump I would (in order of simplicity):

1)Try driving without filler cap on to see if a vacuum build-up/blocked tank breather has been causing it
2)Check/change fuel filter
3)Check banjo filter isn't blocked
4)Check TPS as per Ady's advice

I suppose sediment in fuel tank should also be eliminated but not sure how you do that.

If all these produce no cure, then fuel pump is likely suspect. You could try this stuff:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine ... leak-325ml

To see if it improves things. I've no experience of it but others may be able to comment. If it does help though, I think I'd not see it as a proper fix but use it as confirmation of the seals being dodgy and I'd get on and treat myself to a recon fuel pump as a sensible investment.

Anyone else got any thoughts?

mikeonb4c wrote: Before resorting to buying a new pump I would (in order of simplicity):

1)Try driving without filler cap on to see if a vacuum build-up/blocked tank breather has been causing it
2)heck/change fuel filter
3)Check banjo filter isn't blocked
4)Check TPS as per Ady's advice

I suppose sediment in fuel tank should also be eliminated but not sure how you do that.

If all these produce no cure, then fuel pump is likely suspect. You could try this stuff:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine ... leak-325ml

To see if it improves things. I've no experience of it but others may be able to comment. If it does help though, I think I'd not see it as a proper fix but use it as confirmation of the seals being dodgy and I'd get on and treat myself to a recon fuel pump as a sensible investment.

Anyone else got any thoughts?

That's a nice "agenda".
Is there a filter on the end of the intake pipe in the fuel tank and people have successfully cleared this by blowing air backwards into the fuel tank from the pipe that attaches to the main fuel filter? Does not sound a long term solution if there is muck at the bottom of the tank but at zero cost got to be worth a go.

it could even be bad fuel, there is a lot of it about, diesel now contains fame which is hydroscopic water in the fuel turns particles of fuel to very small jelly blobs, water when parked up a while will collect at the bottom of the tank, where the pick up pipe is, as above there is a filter on the end of the pickup pipe, i use a foot pump to pressurise the pipe, you may feel it blow clear. modern fuel has up to 5-7% bio fuel in it by law, this strips the dirt out of the tank and pipes so can cause bother further forward.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YcczdvPyAk.

All worth a go, having it looked at next week. The frustrating thing is that it's so intermittent, knowing when it's solved for sure is difficult.

mikeonb4c wrote:

joethornber wrote:

Northern Bongolow wrote:click on this link then the picture to enlarge it.

http://www.bongospares.co.uk/product-tag/recon-pump/.

heres the seal kit to give you some idea of whats involved in doing it yourself if your a brain surgeon, and have the eyes of a 6 year old and the patience of a saint.

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/gaske ... it-1995-03.

or theres this route.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-BONGO-2 ... 1900096216

Thanks so much for this, from all the comments. It now seems that it's likely a fuel pump issue, but it does seem that it would be best to work through some of the little fixes - check the oil for diesel etc - before jumping to a new pump. Would I be right?

So many comments and different options that I can't see the wood for the trees. (Doesn't help that I'm pretty clueless)

Thanks all

Before resorting to buying a new pump I would (in order of simplicity):

1)Try driving without filler cap on to see if a vacuum build-up/blocked tank breather has been causing it
2)heck/change fuel filter
3)Check banjo filter isn't blocked
4)Check TPS as per Ady's advice

I suppose sediment in fuel tank should also be eliminated but not sure how you do that.

If all these produce no cure, then fuel pump is likely suspect. You could try this stuff:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine ... leak-325ml

To see if it improves things. I've no experience of it but others may be able to comment. If it does help though, I think I'd not see it as a proper fix but use it as confirmation of the seals being dodgy and I'd get on and treat myself to a recon fuel pump as a sensible investment.

Anyone else got any thoughts?

Thanks for this, would you be able to let me know what you mean by point 4? I've gone back through the thread and can't work out what you mean by this...

this is a pic of the throttle position sensor.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mazda ... EPguOQ4%3D

it lives on the top of the fuel pump, it translates peddle position to the ecu giving the correct amount of fuel at the correct revs.
these are like a volume control on a radio, a rotating resistance control, these wear out along the rotating contact so give false info to the pump.
on the top is 2 screws, these are the adjustment/setting. sometimes adjusting it can improve things. but beware sometimes it can screw things up.
the resistance readings are in the manual so testing is easy enough. when the throttle is off you should have a certain resistance and as the peddle is pressed you should have a different reading, then when fully pressed another reading, the problem usually is that along the scale can be a dead spot or broken track inside the control, this throws up weird resistance readings so the bongo doesnt know whats going on.

read this, it gives the principles of a hall effect sensor and the voltages you should see at certain throttle positions.

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Unn ... or&f=false