Bongo Fury

If you think it's alternator related ... Get that checked out and if faulty....dump that.
I carnt think of anyone who has had to remove a coolant alarm, we have always sorted any problems and these problems are normally coolant or electrical related.
It's up to you!!

Quick question.

If the coolant coats the screw, causing earthing issues, surely by coating the engine internals it causes the same issue.

No..the internals of the engine being coated would have no effect.

Mark Elvin wrote:Quick question.

If the coolant coats the screw, causing earthing issues, surely by coating the engine internals it causes the same issue.

If this "Red" coolant has a 4/5 year protection cover will it keep coating the Screws and internal engine coolant system for 4/5 years before it loses its strength.??

No...it coats the internals just the once during the first 2/3 weeks or few hundred miles....then that property is used up.

haydn callow wrote:No...it coats the internals just the once during the first 2/3 weeks or few hundred miles....then that property is used up.

Very interesting, would that mean that you need to use new Antifreeze/Coolant if you change an engine cooling component after 2/3 weeks or a few hundred mile.

Usually I would just drain the coolant replace the component the refill with the 2/3 week old coolant.I thought it would have been good for a number of years, but by your explanation it looks like New coolant should be used.

Thanks for that information.

haydn callow wrote:No..the internals of the engine being coated would have no effect.

Really. So it knackers the conductivity of the screw, but not the engine, which is also metal?

Mark Elvin wrote:

haydn callow wrote:No..the internals of the engine being coated would have no effect.

Really. So it knackers the conductivity of the screw, but not the engine, which is also metal?

As none of the earth straps are connected inside the engine that is not relevant. And it is such a large lump the currant from the alarm finds a path to earth..
At the end of the day if you are not happy with your alarm...send it back and we will refund you...it would be a first.

Rita.....the only bit that really benefits from the coating is the area that is bombarded with bubbles around the water pump.....but ...most coolants don't have this coating property so it's no big deal.

Personally having used all types of coolant I would in a Bongo use 2 year coolant and change it on a regular basis....

You can if you wish fit a second screw about a inch below the sensor screw and connect it to earth.....we used to do this about 5 years ago but experience has shown it wasn't required. The second will defo not do any harm and in your case may solve the problem....let us know if you want extra screws

So, what voltages are you getting at the alternator & across the screw? We're dying to know

Simon Jones wrote:The other thing is that the alarm is quite voltage sensitive so if your alternator output rises too much when it speeds up, that cause the symptoms you describe.

Simon Jones wrote:Probably worth checking the charge at the battery with a multimeter when you rev the engine.

adscatt wrote:My coolant alarm was sounding at me after start up (fast idle) and when setting off at junctions it would give a little peep, found my alternator was over charging so at fast idle it was about 16v rising to 17.5v at times, new alternator fitted, not had a peep since. Worth checking the alternator output?

haydn callow wrote:I would suggest that if a clean screw fitted now plays up you have a underlying electrical problem.
Check the voltage at the screw....it trips the alarm at about 2.4 volts

Simon Jones wrote:What voltage are you getting across battery when this happens?

haydn callow wrote:Take some voltage readings as suggested.

haydn callow wrote:If you think it's alternator related ... Get that checked out and if faulty....dump that.

rita wrote:

haydn callow wrote:No...it coats the internals just the once during the first 2/3 weeks or few hundred miles....then that property is used up.

Very interesting, would that mean that you need to use new Antifreeze/Coolant if you change an engine cooling component after 2/3 weeks or a few hundred mile.

Usually I would just drain the coolant replace the component the refill with the 2/3 week old coolant.I thought it would have been good for a number of years, but by your explanation it looks like New coolant should be used.

Thanks for that information.

Phew, I'm trying to follow that. Wouldn't you just return the original coolant back into the system?

mikeonb4c wrote:

rita wrote:

haydn callow wrote:No...it coats the internals just the once during the first 2/3 weeks or few hundred miles....then that property is used up.

Very interesting, would that mean that you need to use new Antifreeze/Coolant if you change an engine cooling component after 2/3 weeks or a few hundred mile.

Usually I would just drain the coolant replace the component the refill with the 2/3 week old coolant.I thought it would have been good for a number of years, but by your explanation it looks like New coolant should be used.

Thanks for that information.

Phew, I'm trying to follow that. Wouldn't you just return the original coolant back into the system?

Apparently Not if you replace new parts ,as the inhibitor properties are used up after a couple of weeks,and the many new parts that could be fitted will not be protected.

As the alarms normally settle down and behave after a short while after new red coolant Is introduced. It certainly indicates that the coating process is a one off event.

mikeonb4c wrote:

rita wrote:

haydn callow wrote:No...it coats the internals just the once during the first 2/3 weeks or few hundred miles....then that property is used up.

Very interesting, would that mean that you need to use new Antifreeze/Coolant if you change an engine cooling component after 2/3 weeks or a few hundred mile.

Usually I would just drain the coolant replace the component the refill with the 2/3 week old coolant.I thought it would have been good for a number of years, but by your explanation it looks like New coolant should be used.

Thanks for that information.

Phew, I'm trying to follow that. Wouldn't you just return the original coolant back into the system?[/quote

Yes but the new part( ie water pump ) would not have or get coated Not a big deal as most coolants don't coat anything anyway

I agree it gets confusing with all the quotes ..

Do people really have such short memories that they cannot follow what as been said in the same thread .. ??