Bongo Fury

An alternative has just occured to me. Simply 'T' into the header tank supply and put a dedicated container at the same height. You keep the original header tank and just have another one in line. No need to worry about pressure rating and you get a bit more coolant capacity to boot. Use it to house the float switch and job done. It could be quite small as all it only has to be slightly bigger than a float.

Will the float switch not give false readings on sharp breaking, cornering,gear changes etc as the coolant moves around the tank

The float switches I've seen in header tanks tend to be the same as those in brake fluid reservoirs and tend not be as susceptible to movement of fluid in the horizontal plane. Imagine a polo mint on a pencil where the polo is the float and the pencil the vertical shaft. The floats tend to sit in the fluid rather than float and are weighted according to the fluid they are immersed in so are in effect 'damped'. The floats I think you mention are the 'old' style float on a long arm that sits on top of the fluid, these are more prone to fluctuations due to the arm length and principles of leverage etc.

smartmonkey said:

No need to worry about pressure rating...

Do you mean the new container can just have an airtight lid, as any pressure venting can be handled by the original header tank and its pressure cap? It all sounds v clever, simple, uncomplicated and cheap. Regarding the sensor, what (cheap) device does one use that is happy when in water but complains when not. A float is one option but I can se problems with it sticking, being wrongly adjusted etc. Some kind of electrical proble might be simpler. You'd think a 2 probe conductivity device would work (water is more conductive than air etc.)

Mike

Have been in lots of contact with the firm in Oz. We think we may be able to come up with a replacement radiator cap which will be fitted with sensor probes. SO SIMPLE !! Watch this space. Theyare going to produce a prototype for me to trial. Watch this space

Well done haydn!!

Excellent Haydn -- I will certainly purchase one when it's available.

David

There will be a prototype on it's way in a couple of days. The Radiator cap version is on hold due to the lack of space and the top of rad being plastic. We are going to fit and try a inline sensor with 2x internal probes ( much the same as the one on his website), but with reducing adapters to enable it to be fitted in the 20mm hose that connects the header tank with the Radiator. This should be simple to fit and I "think" it can be done without loseing coolant and having to bleed the system. I will keep you informed and let you know the results.

mikeonb4c wrote:smartmonkey said:

No need to worry about pressure rating...

Do you mean the new container can just have an airtight lid, as any pressure venting can be handled by the original header tank and its pressure cap? It all sounds v clever, simple, uncomplicated and cheap. Regarding the sensor, what (cheap) device does one use that is happy when in water but complains when not. A float is one option but I can se problems with it sticking, being wrongly adjusted etc. Some kind of electrical proble might be simpler. You'd think a 2 probe conductivity device would work (water is more conductive than air etc.)

Mike

Yup, the new container just needs to hold more pressure than the rating on the proper cap. I would just go to a scrappy and get a header tank float switch. The advantage is it will be a couple of quid and has enough current switching capacity for a light and maybe a buzzer. No electronics and nothing to go wrong. The conductivity probe is neat but I am too tight and lazy to bother.

While any device envisaged here will detect loss of coolant is that totally what we wish to achieve?

I am under the impression that some peeps had blockages in the cooling system caused by sludge etc that created hot spots and cooked the head.
Is "loss of coolant" detection the way to go?

Those peeps who cooked their heads may care to comment as to whether "loss of coolant" is the way to go. I wonder if the blockages caused damage before the coolant finally boiled out!


Bonz

Bonza...that may well be the case for a few meltdowns. However I would think most are caused by coolant loss. Either by "pinprick" holes failed heater cores the list goes on. So whilst a coolant loss detector may not cover all problems I think 95% will be covered. We will see! I am very keen to fit one and will do as soon as it arrives from Oz. Anything that tells you your coolant is dripping/spurting away has got to be good in my opinion.

I tend to go with haydn. If you have a sludged system, you will probably have known about it by now. And it will have to be fixed - no shortcuts. That leaves all the Bongos that clearly have clean pipes, but whose hosing is getting old. Some insurance against the consequences of one of them 'going' seems sensible.

Even amongst the remaining 5% of Bongos, havent the clogged sytem problems often involved, back pressure, boiling and loss of coolant. So it is possible the sensors may still be of some use in providing early warning?

And lets not forget, we do still have a temp gauge. And it is not completely useless.

Mike

Well the Mk 1 Bongo coolant loss sensor has been produced and is on it's way as I (one finger) type. It should be very simple to fit and no (very little) loss of coolant involved so hopefully no bleeding either. One Question that has been asked !! would this device be of interest to Petrol Bongos? and if so is the cooling system much the same as on the Diesel?? Most importantly do petrol bongos have the same or similar 20mm hose connecting the header tank to the top of the Radiator?? If not can someone post a photo of what the set up is.
Thanks
Will let you know when the sensor is fitted and what I think.

Well done Hayden. Think youre right about detecting coolant loss. It should cover most cases.
Any idea of a price, Bongofury discount?

Idly gooogling and came across a very accurate coolant temp gauge but since operating temp already varies with OAT and load thats a non starter.
Bonz

haven't got round to costs yet. Depends I suppose on the amount of units bought at a time. That would cut down on postage costs and the more ordered the cheaper they would be. I think first thing to do is get one fitted and tried. Then go from there. I will keep you posted.