Just tried it in water to be sure and it doesn't float. Had to make sure though cos stranger things happened on a Bongo.widdowson2008 wrote:Sorry but I don't think so. It's solid steel, not a hollow float construction. The only way it can block the hole would be if there were a swift flow of coolant going past it, and even then I don't think it likely. ....but I could be wrongNorthern Bongolow wrote:....
conclusion imho is that the jiggle pin is actually a float and only opperates properly when in contact with water ??????
ady
coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
Steve
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
The jiggle pin should float, in other words, it should sit against the stat flange and keep coolant from transfering to the upper part of the stat.
My reckoning of the stat needing to be open when bleeding air out is to make sure there's no air ANYWHERE in the system because there's nowhere for it to hide when everything is flowing
My reckoning of the stat needing to be open when bleeding air out is to make sure there's no air ANYWHERE in the system because there's nowhere for it to hide when everything is flowing
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
Quote taken from Pistonheads food for thought
blitzracing said:
We have problems on the Ginetta's (RV8)with the temparature fluctuating between 85-95'. Im told this is due to steam pockets developing in the top of the head, that does not cause the thermostat to open untill the cooler water lower down gets warm enough to open the stat itself. The cure is to drill a 4-6mm hole in the very top of the 'stat to allow any steam to escape, so the water level on the stat is always as high as possible. Dont know if this is technically correct, but it solves the problem for sure. It may just be a problem on the Ginettas as the header tank is only just above the heads.
I like the drilling holes idea .. I only drill a 3mm hole in the top of the RV8 stats though on road cars because if you go too big you cna run into overcooling in winter, it's surprising how little coolant flow is required to keep an engine temp down in winter on light cruise, also the hole provides an air-lock escape route to aid filling the system and also (i think) gives a more progressive first opening of the stat as you're bleding through warm water before the true stat operating temp is reached, so you eliminate the hot/cold/hot swing.
Good point Trackcar,have been modding stats like this for years,works wonders for the Rover K series,that can be a bugger to bleed,your def right about that hole size 3mm seems a ideal compromisethumbup
http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Pressure_Relief ... Thermostat
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... 0&t=473074

blitzracing said:
We have problems on the Ginetta's (RV8)with the temparature fluctuating between 85-95'. Im told this is due to steam pockets developing in the top of the head, that does not cause the thermostat to open untill the cooler water lower down gets warm enough to open the stat itself. The cure is to drill a 4-6mm hole in the very top of the 'stat to allow any steam to escape, so the water level on the stat is always as high as possible. Dont know if this is technically correct, but it solves the problem for sure. It may just be a problem on the Ginettas as the header tank is only just above the heads.
I like the drilling holes idea .. I only drill a 3mm hole in the top of the RV8 stats though on road cars because if you go too big you cna run into overcooling in winter, it's surprising how little coolant flow is required to keep an engine temp down in winter on light cruise, also the hole provides an air-lock escape route to aid filling the system and also (i think) gives a more progressive first opening of the stat as you're bleding through warm water before the true stat operating temp is reached, so you eliminate the hot/cold/hot swing.
Good point Trackcar,have been modding stats like this for years,works wonders for the Rover K series,that can be a bugger to bleed,your def right about that hole size 3mm seems a ideal compromisethumbup
http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Pressure_Relief ... Thermostat
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... 0&t=473074
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
We kind of covered the K series when doing the "how it works" bit when discussing the Bypass part of the cooling system.
I had seen that post on Pistonheads before and I guess that gives another slant on things from a performance perspective and is a valid point to raise.
I think ( put up against the wall if I am wrong).. Widdowson is looking at the principles of the "base" Mazda System with O.E parts and on the basis that the O.E system is sound and needs no modifications.
I had seen that post on Pistonheads before and I guess that gives another slant on things from a performance perspective and is a valid point to raise.
I think ( put up against the wall if I am wrong).. Widdowson is looking at the principles of the "base" Mazda System with O.E parts and on the basis that the O.E system is sound and needs no modifications.
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
Hi Alandandywarhol wrote:The jiggle pin should float, in other words, it should sit against the stat flange and keep coolant from transfering to the upper part of the stat.
My reckoning of the stat needing to be open when bleeding air out is to make sure there's no air ANYWHERE in the system because there's nowhere for it to hide when everything is flowing
Tried again and I can't get the jiggle pin to float. This is on a new, genuine Mazda stat. So a bit baffled by this one.
As you know, the stat housing fits to the engine at a slight angle. The 'ear' on the seal positions the jiggle pin at the highest point ie: where air is going to collect. This would release trapped air in the pipe between rad (bottom) and stat housing.
Steve
Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
Is it not the case that the jiggle pin doesn't float, but will hang down open in an air pocket, and be pushed closed by a water flow, and as such acts as a auto-bleed valve for the stat housing?
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
Thats the way its looking to me. Still cant get it to floatdave_aber wrote:Is it not the case that the jiggle pin doesn't float, but will hang down open in an air pocket, and be pushed closed by a water flow, and as such acts as a auto-bleed valve for the stat housing?

Steve
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_f ... thermostat
Most thermostats have a Jiggle pin. Its function is to allow trapped air past a closed thermostat as a build up of air in front of the wax capsule could cause engine damage. The wax capsule relies on coolant to relay heat to operate. If air was surrounding the capsule and the engine was at operating temperature, the stat would remain closed and cause the engine to overheat.
and the beat goes on
Most thermostats have a Jiggle pin. Its function is to allow trapped air past a closed thermostat as a build up of air in front of the wax capsule could cause engine damage. The wax capsule relies on coolant to relay heat to operate. If air was surrounding the capsule and the engine was at operating temperature, the stat would remain closed and cause the engine to overheat.
and the beat goes on

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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
Thats a direct quote from Tama Thermostats. For that quote, and other interesting stuff on stats, have a look at this http://www.tama-e.co.jp/en/faq.htmlmaxheadroom wrote:http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_f ... thermostat
Most thermostats have a Jiggle pin. Its function is to allow trapped air past a closed thermostat as a build up of air in front of the wax capsule could cause engine damage. The wax capsule relies on coolant to relay heat to operate. If air was surrounding the capsule and the engine was at operating temperature, the stat would remain closed and cause the engine to overheat.
and the beat goes on
Jap spelling is a bit dodgy though:lol:
Steve
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
http://www.gates.com/europe/brochure.cf ... on_id=5162thermostats with jiggle pin valves are equipped with a special valve in the flange,which allows trapped air in the system to escape and permits the venting of air from the system when filling it with coolant
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
Spot on Maxmaxheadroom wrote:http://www.gates.com/europe/brochure.cf ... on_id=5162thermostats with jiggle pin valves are equipped with a special valve in the flange,which allows trapped air in the system to escape and permits the venting of air from the system when filling it with coolant

Steve
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
But the air around the wax capsule theory doesn't work with the bongo's system.widdowson2008 wrote:Thats a direct quote from Tama Thermostats. For that quote, and other interesting stuff on stats, have a look at this http://www.tama-e.co.jp/en/faq.htmlmaxheadroom wrote:http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_f ... thermostat
Most thermostats have a Jiggle pin. Its function is to allow trapped air past a closed thermostat as a build up of air in front of the wax capsule could cause engine damage. The wax capsule relies on coolant to relay heat to operate. If air was surrounding the capsule and the engine was at operating temperature, the stat would remain closed and cause the engine to overheat.
and the beat goes on
Jap spelling is a bit dodgy though:lol:
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
Very true. I think folk are mixing the Bongo system with a conventional one, and as a consequence, a load of totally irrelevant stuff is being spouted. There is enough confusion without adding to it.missfixit70 wrote:
But the air around the wax capsule theory doesn't work with the bongo's system.
How can we clarify this? C'mon, one last effort.
Steve
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
Funnily enough I happened across that same quote when googling for jiggle pins this morning. I think whoever wrote it has just written carelessly and / or a bit presumptiosly. I think I might accept the statement if the bit I've inserted in red uppercase had been included in it. But unless he's been in one of those incredible shrinking things that allowed him to travel around the system and stop next to the thermostat and watch what happened, I'm left wondering how he can be quite certain.missfixit70 wrote:But the air around the wax capsule theory doesn't work with the bongo's system.widdowson2008 wrote:Thats a direct quote from Tama Thermostats. For that quote, and other interesting stuff on stats, have a look at this http://www.tama-e.co.jp/en/faq.htmlmaxheadroom wrote:http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_f ... thermostat
Most thermostats have a Jiggle pin. Its function is to allow trapped air past a closed thermostat as a build up of air in front of the wax capsule could cause engine damage. The wax capsule relies on coolant to relay heat to operate. If air was surrounding the capsule and the engine was at operating temperature, [THERE IS A RISK THAT]the stat would remain closed and cause the engine to overheat.
and the beat goes on
Jap spelling is a bit dodgy though:lol:
When I googled jiggle pins I thought I noticed a few pieces suggesting it was there to both allow air to pass through and to allow a small amount of coolant to pass to either side of the thermostat so as to reduce thermal stress across it. No idea if that is the case, but I suppose expanding coolant on the hot side could pass through just as air does. Doncha wish you could get a thermostat designer to speak up and give us chapter and verse on it?
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Re: coolant flow - (follow up to cooling diagram)
I don't think, being that the jiggle pin doesn't float, that we get too hung up over it and just accept that it is a means for allowing coolant through and to aid bleeding to a (pardon the pun) degree.
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