Bongo Fury

Gasy wrote:Cheers guys
Just been out in it again
Real loud now
Had another look love working on cars in torch light
This time it's sounds from exhaust
Stripped heat shield off and no number 1 stud / bolt
no soot
But burns me fingers when reved
The other day it was deffo louder on left

But looks to be loads in the way to get a drill into that bugger
It's the 1st lower exhaust manifold bolt head gone appears to be snapped flush with engine none in the exhaust manifold
Looks like alternator got to come off and is there some water pipes in the way aswell ( Am i gonna have to drain the water )
Any one done this job
I know it's a common one
How bad is it to do
And thanks again for all the help
At least I know what it is (now carnt sit still untill I know)
Now to plan the weekend attack of the beast
And yes I do have long hair NB dredds down to me belt

Big ten to Mike on the long distance diagnosis.

Has any one ever got these broken studs out
Or is it a drill out and re tap job
Think I know the answer

Gasy wrote:Has any one ever got these broken studs out
Or is it a drill out and re tap job
Think I know the answer

Its a job to be tackled with care and some special bits. It's been covered on old threads and i think our Ady (NB) has tackled a few in his time and can discuss health warnings. Another issue is whether warping of the exhaust manifold has happened as that'll need sorting if so before its refitted. Good luck, keep us posted.

Yes just read cmm303 post
He had a stud removal tool snap and get stuck in there
This is looking like a fun job
Special bolts required aswell I see hot bolts

heres how mate.

http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... ud#p418217.

the snapped stud doesnt hit the back of the hole in the head so drill through the snapped stud but stop before you hit the bottom of the stud hole and you will be fine.
top tip. you may be lucky and grab the end of the stud when the manifold is off, you may consider welding on to the end of the snapped stud a metal bolt then twist out.
if not.
dont use any type of stud extractors, drill it.

Northern Bongolow wrote:heres how mate.

http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... ud#p418217.

the snapped stud doesnt hit the back of the hole in the head so drill through the snapped stud but stop before you hit the bottom of the stud hole and you will be fine.
top tip. you may be lucky and grab the end of the stud when the manifold is off, you may consider welding on to the end of the snapped stud a metal bolt then twist out.
if not.
dont use any type of stud extractors, drill it.

Would just add if you have a bit sticking out that you can get Moleis on it might help to heat up the area around the stud, You may need a blow lamp And then freeze the stud with some pipe freezer work quickly, ask a plumber if you can borrow some freezer.

dont think he knows a plumber

Aye its ok winking but he found the Gas leak.

Cheers guys
I've got electric freezers and aerosol cans and cans of freezer gas
But I stuck a pencil in the manifold hole and it went same depth as manifold

I will drill it
Just not looking forward to it
If I have to drop the water. I want a new rad to go on, stat , antifreeze , pump
If I take the manifold off I need a new exhaust any way ( slight leak on mot ) I want a stainless to go on
If I have to remove the alternator. I want new belts and tensioner thing to go on

With gasket four new studs , carbide drill bits ,new tap and die ,rad , stainless exhaust, belts etc
I bet that's a good £500 and a couple of full weekends work by the time I'm done
Oil and filters need doing
Arches have slight holes , that aluminium filler will do it ,the insides ok and I've regually waxoyled and ku rusted in there

The wonder of old vehicles
But it's staying I'm still pleased with it
And I smiled when it went through mot last week

Mrs was only talking a couple of weeks back shall we get a new car and I did think and look at a forester 4x4 just out of interest
Should of known better

Don't forget to run a straight edge over the manifold, also keep the old gaskets whole if possible you could use them as compensators.

Good Luck

Right ordered new

Radiator
Thermostat
Water pump
3xbelts
Exhaust manifold gasket
Left hand cobalt drill bits ( hopefully it might turn out while I'm drilling it
Self centre drill bit
Normal cobalt drill bit
Tap and die set
4 studs and bolts
Leaving stainless exhaust till broken stud job done
Will start stripping it tomorrow and take a few pics as I go
Thanks for the help

Fingers crossed for you.

This is going to be a fun job
Just got the alternator off
All the rest of the manifold nuts came off no prob number 8 at the back of the manifold came out with the stud
Number 1 stud won't move with easy outs or the left hand drill bits
Had to have a quick go through the manifold just to see
No luck
Carnt split the 3 exhaust bolts tonight from above
So it's going on axle stands tomorrow
Going to drop the fluids (oil and water )
Once I SEPERATE the exhaust I will get the manifold and turbo all off in one I think
Then can get at the stud , hope it don't end up to have to be a heli-coil job
At least it will be a doddle to change oil filter with all that lot off
Thermostat looks abit of a sod to get at the bolts as well
Manifold studs are here ( thank you bongo shop ), gasket here ,rads here , water pump , belts and stat are at post office, think I'm going to order the stainless exhaust tomorrow, then if the exhaust bolts give me grief I can just cut it off
Going to remove winter valve as well ( do I just blank off the pipes to and from it ) & disconnect elec from switch
Turning into a big job just for a snapped stud
I'm on emergency call out for work this weekend aswell
Going to be a couple of weekends before its back on the road I think

Good luck Gasy we'll be rooting for you

make sure the thermostat bolts go back in straight, they are easy to strip the threads in the top casting while holding/putting it all back together. ive seen a few that drill out the threads and nut and bolt the two halves together.
some make it easy and remove the complete stat housing from the block and do it in hand but you may need a new gasket to block if it gets knacked.