Bongo Fury

bongovi wrote:

teenmal wrote:
This is one of the reasons that this type of alarm has been found to be unreliable.
If in Any doubt stop the engine ASAP let it cool down and check the level.

Anyway Good luck.

Noted - but it did seem very responsive when I was bleeding the coolant early on, so not the coated screw issue I've read about. Will be hyper-vigilant in the future.

I'm a bit intrigued by teenmals remark as i've had an LCA fitted for 10 years and its been very reliable in reporting coolant level drops.

bongovi wrote:

Bongolia wrote: It could just be the gasket again. Either way round you are going to have to get the head off to find out.

Now that the festivities have passed (happy new year, bongo-ers), I've started dismantling. Spent a few hours on it already, but currently blocked at the large EGR pipe nut on the turbo side which just won't budge, even after 3 x 5min blowtorching/knocking and dousing in 'penetrating fluid'. Borrowing a long bar next, will try to lovingly ease it after a final heating.

Managed to shear a turbo bolt, but a bit of thread still protruding, so not too concerned yet. Broke a few brittle hoses next to where the fuel lines go - seem easily replaceable (?) and just figuring out which bits I need to remove to get the exhaust (inlet?) manifold off. Then it's the cam and head bolts and we can finally see if the gasket is gone and maybe have the head pressure tested/skimmed.

Will report back when I know more!

@Northern Bongolow - cam seems in good shape at first look. Not sure where to drain oil from turbo - will have a closer look.

@mikeonb4c - thanks for tips on various other bits to replace at same time. Will try to 'get away' with not getting a new head gasket if possible, but aware that may be a false economy if not careful.

Is this a typo? You are deffo gonna need a new head gasket.
Heres a few pics of Waspies head off. May help.
You can see I have a leak at the block spigot, not sure if this is the spigot or the hose yet!
https://goo.gl/photos/zWAZnK9pcC2aARXc7

Have to agree here, its not possible to reuse a head gasket.

You'll just finish up stripping it down again.

Bongolia wrote:Will try to 'get away' with not getting a new head gasket if possible, but aware that may be a false economy if not careful.
Is this a typo? You are deffo gonna need a new head gasket.
Heres a few pics of Waspies head off. May help.
You can see I have a leak at the block spigot, not sure if this is the spigot or the hose yet!
https://goo.gl/photos/zWAZnK9pcC2aARXc7

Absolutely a typo, must have spent too long inhaling fumes in the Bongo. Trying to see if I can get away with not getting a whole new cylinder head. Well prepared to replace the gasket, cam belt, glow plugs etc. but will check the head for soundness before refitting. Thanks for the link.

Anyone know where to get the rubber hoses I mentioned that snapped as I was removing the exhaust (inlet?) manifold, drivers side? All the hoses (haven't figured out exactly what they're for yet) to the left of the fuel pipes, mounted on a bracket, headed to EGR valve. Probably just a few lengths of a standard hose? Or are they of an exact internal diameter...

Absolutely a typo, must have spent too long inhaling fumes in the Bongo. Trying to see if I can get away with not getting a whole new cylinder head. Well prepared to replace the gasket, cam belt, glow plugs etc. but will check the head for soundness before refitting. Thanks for the link.

Anyone know where to get the rubber hoses I mentioned that snapped as I was removing the exhaust (inlet?) manifold, drivers side? All the hoses (haven't figured out exactly what they're for yet) to the left of the fuel pipes, mounted on a bracket, headed to EGR valve. Probably just a few lengths of a standard hose? Or are they of an exact internal diameter...[/quote]

Yes I know that feeling only too well.
Have a look at this website, mainly fascinating electronic projects but it does have a section showing exploded diagrams of Bongos various bits and bobs. If you can find the part numbers you require Ian may be able to source them for you. Here is the link.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/

its thick walled but standard size vac pipe, it doesnt suck flat when under vac and heated up with the engine. they are connected to the cold start solenoids then on to the egr valve.

Bongolia wrote: Have a look at this website, mainly fascinating electronic projects but it does have a section showing exploded diagrams of Bongos various bits and bobs. If you can find the part numbers you require Ian may be able to source them for you. Here is the link.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/

Cheers - looking at this image [1] I wonder if you know if I could just remove the exhaust manifold to EGR pipe (20-310) by removing the small bolts on driver side instead of the large nut on the passenger side. Because that nut isn't budging. Might be awkward to get to... but at least it would come off!

Also while I'm asking, should I be changing *all* gaskets as I go, or just the 'main event' head gasket?

@Northern Bongolow - cheers for the info, makes sense! Will try to track some originals down.

[1] - http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

I would say get a complete head set inc bolts and use the oportunity to fit/renew the gaskets and valve stem seals while you are in there.
I am not in work today, so not sure on the pipe question, but looking at it I would have said yes.
NB will know though.

you can remove the whole egr and pipework if you wish, the nut is bloody tight and best done with the manifold off, but it is a weird thread into the manifold so you would have to get a blank made to fit into the end of the manifold, or saw through the pipe, fold over and weld, or the pipe is 22mm if i remember right so a standard plumbing compression fitting would do preferably stainless as copper/brass may get too hot.

the easy method (and best for 2 reasons) is to fit blanking plates made by Allans Vehicle Services. Allans is a member on here. The plates simply replace the 2 thin gaskets that are fitted as standard as per drawing. The main reason for not removing the egr is as follows, the egr has a position sensor fitted to it, this is linked to the ecu, if the egr sticks with old age either open or closed it throws up a fault code, if you remove it it can throw up a code.
some have removed it with no problems but in my opinion its best to leave the wiring in tact so leave the egr valve body in place.

for the blanking plates search member allans in the members area or Allans Vehicle Services.

Moderator 'Doone' of this parish is your contact.

Northern Bongolow wrote:for the blanking plates search member allans in the members area or Allans Vehicle Services.

Or you can get them direct from the club shop at http://bongoland.co.uk/product/egr-blanking-plates/

You can also use the easy fit type like this, and the type with a small hole in the centre to fool the ECU (if required)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-B2500-B ... SwZ8ZW5Aee

teenmal wrote:You can also use the easy fit type like this, and the type with a small hole in the centre to fool the ECU (if required)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-B2500-B ... SwZ8ZW5Aee

Haven't had chance to stick my head back in the Bongo yet but hopefully tomorrow/Saturday and will hopefully be into the head by then to report back on damage. Very much appreciate the advice so far.

Ian wrote:

Northern Bongolow wrote:for the blanking plates search member lorna in the members area ( the boss) or allen vehicle services.

Or you can get them direct from the club shop at http://bongoland.co.uk/product/egr-blanking-plates/

Go gently tightening the EGR bolts into the inlet manifold elbow as the threads in the elbow strip very easily.

bongovi wrote:

teenmal wrote:You can also use the easy fit type like this, and the type with a small hole in the centre to fool the ECU (if required)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-B2500-B ... SwZ8ZW5Aee

Haven't had chance to stick my head back in the Bongo yet but hopefully tomorrow/Saturday and will hopefully be into the head by then to report back on damage. Very much appreciate the advice so far.

Owing to the fact that the WLTD cylinder head gasket is "normally" of the multilayer type you should be able to check for blow at No 2 or whatever cylinder has signs of coolant. It is also advisable to remove the valves to check the head for cracks, don't forget to check the block also.

GL