Bongo Fury

i wrongly thought that the thin pipe was vac when it must be a poss pressure pipe that pushes the diaphragm down in the pump, at least this explains how the pipe and top of the pump gets filled with oil from the inlet manifold. sorry.

your wastegate looks like its stuck in the closed position in your pic, but your symptoms sound like its stuck in the open position.
read this about what it does in what position.

http://www.buyautoparts.com/howto/diagn ... -turbo.htm.

i would take off the 2 screws that hold the actuator to the the body then carefully rev up the engine, the turbo kicks in at around 2000 revs, during that time it would make boost pressure, carry on raising the revs until the max boost pressure is gained, at this point the actuator should open the wastegate, if the wastegate is stuck it would push the actuator back as it cannot open the wastegate coss its stuck. this will tell you if its the gate or the diaphragm thats faulty. the other way would be to disconnect the actuator then put a controlled psi pressure up the line, seeif this moves owt. be careful doing this as you could hurt yourself or blow the diaphragm.

Northern Bongolow wrote:i wrongly thought that the thin pipe was vac when it must be a poss pressure pipe that pushes the diaphragm down in the pump, at least this explains how the pipe and top of the pump gets filled with oil from the inlet manifold. sorry.

your wastegate looks like its stuck in the closed position in your pic, but your symptoms sound like its stuck in the open position.
read this about what it does in what position.

http://www.buyautoparts.com/howto/diagn ... -turbo.htm.

i would take off the 2 screws that hold the actuator to the the body then carefully rev up the engine, the turbo kicks in at around 2000 revs, during that time it would make boost pressure, carry on raising the revs until the max boost pressure is gained, at this point the actuator should open the wastegate, if the wastegate is stuck it would push the actuator back as it cannot open the wastegate coss its stuck. this will tell you if its the gate or the diaphragm thats faulty. the other way would be to disconnect the actuator then put a controlled psi pressure up the line, seeif this moves owt. be careful doing this as you could hurt yourself or blow the diaphragm.

I agree, it definitely sounds like the wastegate is stuck in the open position after reading the link. I plan to run the test you suggested tomorrow. If it proves to be stuck open, is it just a simple disassemble and clean type of thing?

yes. its not easy to get off but if you look at the thread i linked to above it shows how to remove it or split it in half then clean out.

if its the wastegate stuck not the diaphragm i would try a spray release and lever first, dont use wd40 as its not a release agent get something right for the job, then spray it over a few days and let it do its thing then dont hit it with a hammer, just lever it steadily until it moves, soak it again and move a little more until it gets full movement.

Took the Bongo to the garage today to have the turbo issue looked at. The mechanic said that the turbo is ok and the problem is with the fuel pump causing a fuel supply issue. I can get a (refurbished) pump for £410 or a used one for £210. My question is, can my existing pump be refurbished and who could do that and would there be any savings?

Does that price include fitting?
Do you end up with your fuel pump that you can sell on for reconditioning?

I'd go for refurb and confirm the warranty it has. The cost of replacing a fuel pump will normally be £400 upwards counting labour and the pump so it's not a job you want to repeat.

cmm303 wrote:Does that price include fitting?
Do you end up with your fuel pump that you can sell on for reconditioning?

I'd go for refurb and confirm the warranty it has. The cost of replacing a fuel pump will normally be £400 upwards counting labour and the pump so it's not a job you want to repeat.

Those are parts only prices. My buddy & I will handle the labor on it & yes I would still have my old one as well.

Gdlee1976 wrote:

cmm303 wrote:Does that price include fitting?
Do you end up with your fuel pump that you can sell on for reconditioning?

I'd go for refurb and confirm the warranty it has. The cost of replacing a fuel pump will normally be £400 upwards counting labour and the pump so it's not a job you want to repeat.

Those are parts only prices. My buddy & I will handle the labor on it & yes I would still have my old one as well.

The refurbed pump is in the same ball park as Bongospares charge but their price is for an exchange. If you can put up with the Bongo being off the road for a bit, you might be able to save £50 or so by sorting the removal with your buddy and then getting your own pump refurbed by an injection specialist. Could be worth a couple of phone calls.

If the garage that diagnosed the pump as faulty isn't responsible for fixing it, gotta be confident that their diagnosis is right!

i wonder if someone has attempted to do the advance piston side seals and messed it up, either by loosing the shims or putting the inerds back in wrong.

this is a good thread by dandy.

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... ls#p129685

Gdlee1976 wrote:Also, took a drive today with the passenger seat folded back and all the way up to 3500 RPM and the wastegate shaft never moved at all.

This still niggles. Is it an obvious movement or could it be missed?

Just an update as the Bongo just was finished by the guys at Target Mini Repairs in Swansea. They fitted a second hand fuel pump from Bongo Spares (that I provided) and the Bongo is running great now. Plenty of acceleration on down shifting. It is driving like a completely different van then it has since I got it 3 weeks ago. Thanks for all the input! Also, Target Mini was great & I will be using them again in the future.

Gdlee1976 wrote:Just an update as the Bongo just was finished by the guys at Target Mini Repairs in Swansea. They fitted a second hand fuel pump from Bongo Spares (that I provided) and the Bongo is running great now. Plenty of acceleration on down shifting. It is driving like a completely different van then it has since I got it 3 weeks ago. Thanks for all the input! Also, Target Mini was great & I will be using them again in the future.

Glad it was a good outcome and helpful to post the conclusion.

Just a thought on this subject as not seen it mentioned, there "might be" an in line gauze filter where the fuel goes into the pump, its under a spring & washer when you remove the fuel line. Some do some don't. If its blocked you would get these symptoms. Ford Rangers have them (most of the time) not checked my latest Bongo for one but will do this week.

I have changed the fuel filter and cleaned out the banjo so far....thats the gauze your refering to

Personally I would fit a CLEAN test bottle/container direct to the IP to illuminate any filter or suction line problems.

Also check the RPM in relation to the gear that the vehicle is running in and the MPH.

Good Luck

Northern Bongolow wrote:i wonder if someone has attempted to do the advance piston side seals and messed it up, either by loosing the shims or putting the inerds back in wrong.

this is a good thread by dandy.

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... ls#p129685

My bongo has the exact same symptoms as the OP. I've just did these seals to stop a leak (success) but the bongo is the same as it was before doing the seals. The wastegate rod doesn't move at all. I put the shims, springs etc back in the same way as they came out but it could have been possible they were assembled wrong before me.

So I am in the same position as Gdlee1976 was before the new pump. Does your wastegate rod now move Gdlee1976?