Bongo Fury

Okey dokey,
Well if mine is disconnected, does that mean that my glow plugs won't be doing anything? How come it starts ok still then?
I shall have a look. Bonkers.

callum wrote:Okey dokey,
Well if mine is disconnected, does that mean that my glow plugs won't be doing anything? How come it starts ok still then?
I shall have a look. Bonkers.

It would be worthwhile checking to see if the glow plug rail is in fact getting power, you can check it with a multi meter etc.If it is getting power with the FL removed it could have had another supply rigged up to the relay.

If there is No power to the GP rail it would mean that you have a Very good engine compression wise.

Hey, my van still started without the glow plugs working just took 3/4 turns. I think mine must have been like it for a while and the cold weather has just made the glow plugs needed to start it.

I would replace that wire and you might find it will stop being lumpy at the start (I think)

Also if you get someone to turn the key just till the glow plug light comes on, while you touch the relay box and when they turn it you will hear and feel a click. Mines wasn't clicking - £30 secondhand part

On a related matter, my engine starts OK after a couple of turns from cold but the glowplug relay doesnt click with a cold engine, only when warm. I give the glowplugs 4 shots (ign on/off etc) before a cold start, any comments please?

Thanks.

Hey, I found if you use a test lamp to see if the power is getting to the glow plugs (I tested all four just to be sure) if no power I would (tho I'm only new to this) follow it back to the battery, mine was the relay and today just popped a second hand one (£30) and it's running like a dream cold or warm start.

Sankovich17 wrote:Hey, I found if you use a test lamp to see if the power is getting to the glow plugs (I tested all four just to be sure) if no power I would (tho I'm only new to this) follow it back to the battery, mine was the relay and today just popped a second hand one (£30) and it's running like a dream cold or warm start.

You can buy these particular relays NEW for about half that price. They are vastly originally over priced.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-bongo-f ... SwBahU-nKJ

Gutted! Haha oh well handy to know

Hi Guys, having very similar issues to the OP on this except it doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes the glowplug lights go out and it starts on the button. Other times, more likely if it's been left overnight or for a couple of days, it fails to ignite and you have to repeat the gloplug light, turnover 3 or 4 times until it reluctantly fires up. It then is really ragged for a couple of minutes or until you give it a good rev and it blows some smoke out then it seems fine again. If you try to drive off whilst it's ragged there is no power at all but it only takes a few seconds to "wake up" and provide power to the engine. I don't know if this is significant but the "hold" light on the dash came on the other day as well but was flashing? I've only ever seen this if you accidentally push the hold button on the gear lever but it never flashes, stays on all the time...strange. Any thoughts on how I can investigate this one?

Hey, I'm new to this and no way an expert but have you tried the above to see if it's the relay?

The hold light... It might be just telling you it's active so you see it on the first start. It's a guess though.

Maybe a more experienced person can help better.

hold light can be from a gearbox electrical connector,water gets in

a clean up can fix it

Hi folks,
I went to fit a replacement fuseable link today only to find, with investigation, that a previous owner has wired in a 60 amp fuse and bypassed the fuseable link.
Now as stated previously, the van runs quite nicely, but would it be better to wire the new fuseable link in or should i stick to the fuse that is in there? I assume there is a reason Mazda disn't just fit a "normal" fuse in the first place?
Cheers
Callum

Why then, not use a fuse? Fusible Link is similar to an in-line fuse. However, the Fusible Link does not deteriorate or have meltdown problems with constant use in heavy-duty systems. Only a serious short will cause a Fusible Link to burn out. It disconnects a circuit from power before the rest of the wiring in a circuit would be damaged. Momentary overloads will not burn out a Fusible Link, accidental arcing between Earth and an exposed Live terminal will not cause them to fail.
Fusible Link wire is considered to be the most reliable short-circuit protection on systems where the amount of current flow is expected to be large for long periods of time

pinched from another site,but it makes sense

also other talk about a 400 amp fuse not 60