Bongo Fury

I think Simon's mod is just to bypass the rear heater matrix, not the steel pipes if that's even possible.

From my experience, it was only the exposed section of pipes that corroded.

You're right, I've bypassed the rear heater with U-shaped pipe (it's actually the same one as fitted by the starter motor) but left the steel pipework in place.



It would be possible to replace all the metal pipework with rubber hose but while my steel pipes are in good condition, it is not something I would consider. If a pipe were to leak, I would probably order a genuine Mazda part as they are still readily available. If the previous one has lasted anywhere up to 20 years, a replacement will more than outlive the rest of the van.

BongoBongo123 wrote: Where is this other long metal pipe that carries water I could not seem to locate it, near side rear heater one.

This one:

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/cooli ... all-models

Also it has come down £30.00 !!!! thats a good thing.

thats the one, its fitted down the inner nearside chassis rail under the passy seat, it pops up under the bonnet to the front heater.
its a real pain to swap out, because of its shape it has to come out of the front, to do this the front rad has to come out.

Northern Bongolow wrote:

BongoBongo123 wrote: Where is this other long metal pipe that carries water I could not seem to locate it, near side rear heater one.

This one:

http://www.mazdabongo.com/catalog/cooli ... all-models

Also it has come down £30.00 !!!! thats a good thing.

thats the one, its fitted down the inner nearside chassis rail under the passy seat, it pops up under the bonnet to the front heater.
its a real pain to swap out, because of its shape it has to come out of the front, to do this the front rad has to come out.

Thanks, that does indeed sound like a right barrel of laughs to remove and also a bit more hidden than the off side pipe for treatments of the various kinds recently discussed.

I have a nasty suspicion that replacing like for like you won't see your 20 year lifespan.

Majority of that was in Japan and no salt. If its a major job to replace and an expense, before you factor in the destruction caused by it going, I'd prefer something bombproof down there instead.

Maybe if you get a new one and get it zinc coated or something before a refit - but I think a better solution would be some form of replacement - either rubber or Goodridge Hose type, or stainless/ally.

Flexible has the benefit that its going to be way easier to fit.

Hi
Mmmm...I must say that I've been looking at the possibility of getting some T-pieces and elbows made up, and using some decent rubber hose "off the reel" to fit on. I bought some very good tractor hose rated 30 bar!!!! and rated for water that I used to bypass the rear heater right across to the passenger side...With some Mikalor clips I can't see a problem, and it makes short shrift of a job instead of the hassle, and the hose from the tractor factor (ooohhh that rhymes) was pretty well rated and cheap....
Cheers
Helen

If you have the patience you could paint it with Hammerite 7 year before fitting. I am going to just Kurust my pipe for now I think after giving a visual inspection after getting the rust off. I have the offside jobby for when it is a must to replace.

Is it worth hair dryer-ing / heat gun-ing the pipe a bit to drive moisture out if done in Autumn/more damp months before Kurust/painting. I wish I spotted it when I was doing some minor rust touch-ups in August.

Wrong time of year for this lark really but better than December I guess.

Today (despite non ideal weather) I had a go at my pipe - driver side, to delay replacement of the new one. I used a normal table knife to abrade the pipes rust, crack off loose pitted bits and finished it off with a drill bit burnisher. It is remarkably dry in fact, so I will apply Kurust and Hammerite paint to all rubbed down and accessible surfaces at the weekend.

You do one job and spot a bit of bother elsewhere.

So not sure what this is called but there is a strong looking diagonal that meets the sill from the front of the vehicle behind the front wheel. This was also starting some surface rust on it's corner edge/lip so that has had the same treatment and will get Kurust and Hammerite, again nipping it in the bud as it was not severe. Quite happy to have spotted that (I suggest taking a look at yours when down there). Definitely worth looking all the way along under there and after all this I did not need ramps or anything, kerb provided enough access to mess about with any close to sill related piping etc.

So quite easy just give your self 1/2 a day and with some inclination/enthusiasm you can sort out a lot of niggles under the sides. Good to get this sorted out before the salt goes down if possible.

I don't know what it is exactly but I am as happy as a pig in the proverbial sorting out minor rust. I think it comes down to it being quite easy and very satisfying, a job with a definite end result.

I admire your enthusiasm although the problem with rust is that you're fighting a loosing battle so you end up treating the same bit over & over again

Surely better than never treating it and your vehicle falling apart ? No doubt there, but you can usually keep it at bay for a good few years with a thorough job.

Absolutely, you can't do too much to prevent rust taking hold. I spent ages on a car I used to own trying all the rust remedies I could find, but thing still kept on appearing which can be very disheartening. I've even seen some Bongos that have had new wheel arches fitted that have started to rust where the new & old metals have been joined.

Simon Jones wrote:Absolutely, you can't do too much to prevent rust taking hold. I spent ages on a car I used to own trying all the rust remedies I could find, but thing still kept on appearing which can be very disheartening. I've even seen some Bongos that have had new wheel arches fitted that have started to rust where the new & old metals have been joined.

Thats sounds nightmarish, must be some waterway just trickling it down ?

After sand down and Kurust (not quite primed yet awaiting 2pm to paint it) I managed to get along the full visible length and on the top of the pipe. It is going to have to be a silver pipe cause thats the colour of Hammerite I have ! Top tip.. always wear eye goggles when using that Kurust stuff cause it has acid in it and it flicked on my cheek during use and I ran in and washed it off sharpish...

https://www.anonimg.com/uploaded-8c1d0b ... a.jpg.html

https://www.anonimg.com/uploaded-96b3e9 ... a.jpg.html

I tried to show the image direct but the forum gave an error message "Could not determine size of image" ??

As I have the time gonna sort those little rust spots on the chassis out, might as well. Always spot something else !!!!

Silver Hammerited... very happy with the covering power of this silver Hammerite (even covered my trousers ), seems like good stuff, very thick and takes to the metal very well. Did quite large sections of that diagonal edge that I mentioned that had a little surface rust. Should hold it back this winter at the very least. I might do a double coat on sections that from memory looked worst off/most exposed tomorrow just to be sure. Be a ten minute job and it will cover any pin holes where the surface tension of the paint did not cover. Cuppa tea and rest my neck !

https://www.anonimg.com/uploaded-d18bd0 ... c.jpg.html

https://www.anonimg.com/uploaded-17eba8 ... d.jpg.html