Bongo Fury

Might also be worth checking the fuses on the battery +ve terminal are also clean any corrosion there will start to cause problems as well. The specific ones that might affect the problem you have are;
and

Thanks, Geoff

The yellow 40A on the 2nd image far left is very verdigris- it also looks a bit eaten away in the middle, like there is a green corroded notch either side. I am looking top down on the fuse itself, through the transparency. I am guessing it should look a bright copper colour, and uniform breadth across? It doesn't look particularly happy!

The 100A in the other photo looks ok from the top, bright copper and uniform width- not sure if this one just pulls out? I can see a bolthead marked "6" just below it and didn't want to pull it in case this is some sort of retainer.

Maybe I need to visit the Shoppe for some fuses (I have mini ones, but none of the larger ones )

Zin

Its not the state of the fuse section itself, much more are the pins for the connection, if its been moist on top however then a very good chance that the pins are like it as well and that is where the problem might lie.
Yes some variations of that style of fuse are held by a screw as well, I've never needed to pull mine so not sure if its that style or not. I normally check by putting a meter across them and looking for a voltage drop when a load is switched on.

to remove the blue 100 amp remove the bolt.
either open/lift the seats and view the large earths that go from body to engine, and body to gearbox. or look under the van to the rear of the plastic undertray.
generally the earths for the heavy draw stuff are single and bolt on types, the lighter draw stuff are 3 or 4 into a strip/block then 1 bolt to connect to the body these are placed all over the motor, particularly behind the headlights etc. to see one look under the passy seat there is one screwed on the chassis rail in front of you. you can remove each of the small connectors that plug into the block to clean and check them.

I've never had to remove these 100amp fuses either.....

The closest thing i can find is a Justin Bieber type bumbler working on a 626 one handed with a cam corder.... similar sort of set up holding the fuse in though... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5euVWTkFcU0

cheers mate, the bongo is a similar set up, but a lot easier

It was more for the bolts to the actual fuse than anything else Ady... But yeah, Bongos alot easier.

Makes you wonder what the youth insurance prices are like in the States though don't it?

Thanks again guys- plenty to look at. The connectors for the 40A look dry and dusty, so a tweak and some WD40 would seem appropriate. I'll do some checking around the other earths as well- I do wonder if recent flooding around here might have affected one of the eraths lower down.

Its a pity my brother doesn't live closer- him being one of Audi's top peeps on electrics...

If anything, the gauge seemed to climb higher today and fiddling with the electric window seemed to only make a marked difference while static with engine running. Once I drove on, the gauge climbed back up to "H" again. Running the heaters didn't seem to make much difference, wheras normally it drops the gauge quite rapidly. My worry is that this might be a thermostat or something instead of just electrical? Is this possible? The gauge seems to stay at "cold" for longer than it used to, and then climb more rapidly than it used to as well- its a very marked difference. Sorry to witter on, but my knowledge is really pretty limited.

if you have checked all the above and are getting nowhere i would carefully disconnect the mason,(dont overtighten the screws,) this was the only way round the problem for me.
see what happens to the standard gauge then, if it behaves like a standard gauge should--------ie start moving at around 45-50 deg c then stays at the 11 oclock position, then its the mason, if its not right check the wiring to the sender, then replace the sender, then the gauge itself as the internal wires break in the gauge.
if all is well with the standard gauge then do the 100 ohm mod that is on haydn callows web site, put the resister on the rear/outside of the clock cluster though across the same terminals as the mason was fitted, dont go inside the gauge. this gives you the moded gauge as per the mason but without the alarm feature.

Northern Bongolow wrote:if you have checked all the above and are getting nowhere i would carefully disconnect the mason,(dont overtighten the screws,) this was the only way round the problem for me.
see what happens to the standard gauge then, if it behaves like a standard gauge should--------ie start moving at around 45-50 deg c then stays at the 11 oclock position, then its the mason, if its not right check the wiring to the sender, then replace the sender, then the gauge itself as the internal wires break in the gauge.
if all is well with the standard gauge then do the 100 ohm mod that is on haydn callows web site, put the resister on the rear/outside of the clock cluster though across the same terminals as the mason was fitted, dont go inside the gauge. this gives you the moded gauge as per the mason but without the alarm feature.

Sound advice, and thank you. I had it in for a check with an auto electrician, who did a full run of tests and disconnected the Mason, also advising about possibly replacing the sender (got one through from the Shoppe, for when I get a service done v soon as I believe I can't do it without doing a coolant change). No fluctuations now! Just can't figure why the Mason has been fine for 3 years then suddenly flipped out??

Can I ask if the 100ohm mod guidance the same as in the FAQs on here, or different? I couldn't see a link to it on the site that is is Haydn's siggy block. My temptation is to get the mod done and backup with one of Haydn's digital displays (it seems that the Mason isn't made anymore). Having had a hose go in the past, the Mason was a sound investment for 3 years worry reduced motoring. Driving with the standard gauge is detrimental to my blood pressure!!

just pm haydn via the forum, he will put you straight. he will be at the bash with his goodies, have a chat if your going.

re the mason going cuckoo. i really dont think the issue is with the mason itself, i had several chats with the maker, he even sent me a replacement, he is a really nice chap and was very helpful. he had come across this only occasionally, he had tested the returned units and we were still no wiser.
it seamed to be that the kit is so sensative it picks up faults around it. the wifes had one for years no problem, but mine and one other that i know of never did work correctly, but no faults have ever come to light on these vehicles. . thats bongo's