Bongo Fury

dandywarhol wrote:It wasn't meant to be a contentious post Ady, I was just curious as to why the see-saw was required. I presume it's to create a little pressure during the downward "stroke" to purge any trapped air out. My thoughts are that the combination of pump pressure and the stat opening will create more coolant movement in the system than see-sawing and as air is lighter than coolant it will automatically rise to the highest point - i.e. the bleeder pipe.

As you and Hayden say, whatever suits the individual.

I also thought if I was a newcomer about to buy a Bongo and researched the 'net, I'd be put off by the well intended videos.

i know you wern't having a dig alan, i understand your question now.
with ref to the lifting/dropping of the funnel in the vid, kirsty would im sure let me say she was overdoing it a little, but in her defence i was just off camera making signs and trying to chat to her while she was trying to think about what she was saying/ doing etc. the lifting/ lowering is really for the initial stage of filling before the engine is started to get as much coolant into the head/pipes as poss. once this is done the engine is then started, raise the revs and the pump empties the funnel towards the exp tank, when the revs are lowered the funnel fills thus the term seesaw, continue until the bottom hose hot, stat open. at this point the throttle funnel effect reverses so be carefull.
( this is starting to sound a little like the factory method with a little twist and a funnel ).

steves already started talking to chell about adding his animations etc to make the vid clearer, user friendly, has anyone any other ideas on how it could be improved/remade or should we just let peeps read the manual

the main reasons i would not fit an auto bleed are as follows.
the main airlocks in my opinion are the head top, the top of the front heater matrix, and the main one is the top hose down pipe to the rad, this is why the flow gets stopped as the air will not go down at this point, and why they fit a bleed titty on the steel pipe to the rad, or is it filled from here ??.
any block in flow at these points will stop the coolant flow to the stat, the stat will not see a problem so wont open but the head will be boiling. so, where do you fit an auto bleed, at the head ? at the top hose ? at the bleed pipe ? or just fit several, or better still just look after your pipes and coolant system.

was thinking at the end of the bleed pipe..just when you doing a bleed...may b e a crazy ida i know..

think iam going to stick to a see saw if i can find a helper today!

Ideal place for a self bleed gizmo is where the Mazda temperature sensor is which is where any air will migrate to.
It is also the hottest, and more importantly, the highest point on the head).

If the sensor could be taken out and the gizmo screwed in its place, it would clear both the head AND the head/radiator pipe. (if you could get one with the correct thread).

Could you live without the temperature gauge? I think so cos it doesn't tell you much anyway.

But like Simon, I would be reluctant to fit one on mine.

they hold 2 bar presure http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/ ... tAod9QHeVA

chipvan wrote:they hold 2 bar presure http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/ ... tAod9QHeVA

2 bar is fine. Any idea what the maximum temperature it will cope with is?
Looked through the spec but can't see any ref to temps. Also, couldn't see a thread size, but an adaptor could probably be sourced.

Hi
Steve...
I have 3 of those on my domestic system...definitely not suitable
Cheers
Helen

helen&tony wrote:Hi
Steve...
I have 3 of those on my domestic system...definitely not suitable
Cheers
Helen

Hi Helen
Thought there may be a problem. What is it? Durability or something technical?

Northern Bongolow wrote:

dandywarhol wrote:It wasn't meant to be a contentious post Ady, I was just curious as to why the see-saw was required. I presume it's to create a little pressure during the downward "stroke" to purge any trapped air out. My thoughts are that the combination of pump pressure and the stat opening will create more coolant movement in the system than see-sawing and as air is lighter than coolant it will automatically rise to the highest point - i.e. the bleeder pipe.

As you and Hayden say, whatever suits the individual.

I also thought if I was a newcomer about to buy a Bongo and researched the 'net, I'd be put off by the well intended videos.

i know you wern't having a dig alan, i understand your question now.
with ref to the lifting/dropping of the funnel in the vid, kirsty would im sure let me say she was overdoing it a little, but in her defence i was just off camera making signs and trying to chat to her while she was trying to think about what she was saying/ doing etc. the lifting/ lowering is really for the initial stage of filling before the engine is started to get as much coolant into the head/pipes as poss. once this is done the engine is then started, raise the revs and the pump empties the funnel towards the exp tank, when the revs are lowered the funnel fills thus the term seesaw, continue until the bottom hose hot, stat open. at this point the throttle funnel effect reverses so be carefull.
( this is starting to sound a little like the factory method with a little twist and a funnel ).

steves already started talking to chell about adding his animations etc to make the vid clearer, user friendly, has anyone any other ideas on how it could be improved/remade or should we just let peeps read the manual

the main reasons i would not fit an auto bleed are as follows.
the main airlocks in my opinion are the head top, the top of the front heater matrix, and the main one is the top hose down pipe to the rad, this is why the flow gets stopped as the air will not go down at this point, and why they fit a bleed titty on the steel pipe to the rad, or is it filled from here ??.
any block in flow at these points will stop the coolant flow to the stat, the stat will not see a problem so wont open but the head will be boiling. so, where do you fit an auto bleed, at the head ? at the top hose ? at the bleed pipe ? or just fit several, or better still just look after your pipes and coolant system.

I thought the rear matrix was the problem area and one reason the Ranger and B500 pickup doesn't have a bleed tube

Was only thinking of usng just to bleed,not to leave on system.they do fail.

Hi Steve...
it's for a static system, and not able to withstand vibration.
Cheers
Helen

I thought the rear matrix was the problem area and one reason the Ranger and B500 pickup doesn't have a bleed tube [/quote]

never really had any problems bleeding the back heaters alan only if they have a poor flakey system that deposits all the loose stuff in the rear matrix and restricts or blocks entirely the flow. after nearly catching a cold with a bongo a while ago the rear matrix and all pipework is always flushed through and checked.
dont know about the b2500 but the ranger has horizontal pipework from the top hose to rad so i think the problems lye here in the bongo (the top hose dip airlock).

i have a theory, here it is ---badly explained.
im not even sure the head is a problem with a bongo at all, just that in the event of an overheat through lack of water in the system this is the bit that suffers, the head/engine is tipped back, so as to lign up to the back axle. if you draw an imaginary scribe line, horrizontal through the engine from the bottom edge of the coolant out to top hose, through cylinder no's 2 or 3 is this the level at which the head says ive had enough and cracks. in normal filling and bleeding the angle of the head/engine will actually aid air evacuation, thats why the head outlet to rad is positioned where it is.
all of the damaged heads ive seen are usually damaged at pots 2 or 3. is this because its the hottest as it ahas less airflow around it?? or is this weeker and easier to lift/crack because of the way its bolted down ??

I came up with a one-man method of bleeding which I have used for over 3 years during several coolant changes on both diesel and V6 engines. It's an alternative which I find easier and more reliable, but it's just my opinion and is just a variation on the tried and tested methods.

There are some pictures on page 4:

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... lant+valve

Usual disclaimers apply about following any of my guidance, etc (and no bun fights either )

I was only thinking airvent would be used on bleed pipe just temp way of geting air out.you could use the same way as see saw method,was thinking of some clear pipe b4 vent to see whats going on

How would this not work?

Could be a safe and easy method? No hot water spurting any where and air being blead out as u raise and lower pupe..ie seesaw

Kirsty,haydon any thoughts?

You still get hot water shooting out for a second along with a spray as it shuts off, if you have ever watched one operate in a CH system you will appreciate why its mounted within the low pressure vented cabinet!! Not sure I would want to be close to the the spray of boiling hot water at all!

Never seen them do that,i normally see just a dribble,but take all ideas thanks.maybe funnel is best option,did eork fine on my 1st go yedterday