Bongo Fury

there are 2 terminals in the diagnositc box to short then with the ignition on it will flass in sequence

if there is just one code it will repeat it if more than 1 code it will go through them in sequence

slow flashes first then fast flashes, if its a singl digit code it will just pause then go to the next code after the long ones

so 12 should show as 1 long flash then 2 short flashes but only once the terminals are shorted

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... 0Codes.pdf

westonwarrior wrote:there are 2 terminals in the diagnositc box to short then with the ignition on it will flass in sequence

if there is just one code it will repeat it if more than 1 code it will go through them in sequence

slow flashes first then fast flashes, if its a singl digit code it will just pause then go to the next code after the long ones

so 12 should show as 1 long flash then 2 short flashes but only once the terminals are shorted

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... 0Codes.pdf

That makes sense; I'll try that and report back! BTW; electrical is not my forte. But I am better at mechanical!

progroup wrote:

westonwarrior wrote:there are 2 terminals in the diagnositc box to short then with the ignition on it will flass in sequence

if there is just one code it will repeat it if more than 1 code it will go through them in sequence

slow flashes first then fast flashes, if its a singl digit code it will just pause then go to the next code after the long ones

so 12 should show as 1 long flash then 2 short flashes but only once the terminals are shorted

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... 0Codes.pdf

That makes sense; I'll try that and report back! BTW; electrical is not my forte. But I am better at mechanical!

I consider myself dangerous with all of it but will try. I got it fixed elseware though I didn't do that myself

Just another thought here there are TWO (well four if you have SRS & ABS as well) separate diagnostic systems involved in the Bongo, I noticed in the original post that you mentioned the TEN and TAT signals now those come from different systems.....

ENGINE Diagnostics - GLOW PLUG FLASHES
Ground the TEN pin and LED between +ve & FEN pin

TRANSMISSION Diagnostics - HOLD LIGHT FLASHES
Ground the TAT pin and LED between +ve & FAT pin

We haven't got mixed up have we ?

g8dhe wrote:Just another thought here there are TWO (well four if you have SRS & ABS as well) separate diagnostic systems involved in the Bongo, I noticed in the original post that you mentioned the TEN and TAT signals now those come from different systems.....

ENGINE Diagnostics - GLOW PLUG FLASHES
Ground the TEN pin and LED between +ve & FEN pin

TRANSMISSION Diagnostics - HOLD LIGHT FLASHES
Ground the TAT pin and LED between +ve & FAT pin

We haven't got mixed up have we ?

thats what I was thinking Goeff testing the wrong circuit.
However

I am still confused Goeff

the led lights up when shorted? so there is no need to read the code on the flashing hold light. is that what you are saying?

I did mine with just a wire and read the codes from the hold light but both will work?

If so will a circuit tester do this like a multimeter?

westonwarrior wrote:I am still confused Goeff

the led lights up when shorted? so there is no need to read the code on the flashing hold light. is that what you are saying?

I did mine with just a wire and read the codes from the hold light but both will work?

If so will a circuit tester do this like a multimeter?

No your not shorting the LED at all;
You short the Test-ENgine (TEN) input to ground to enable the Fault-Engine (FEN) output to cause the LED to Flash when its connected
or
You short the Test-Automatic-Transmission (TAT) input to ground to enable the Fault-Automatic-Transmission (FAT) output to cause the LED to flash when connected
You can replace the LED with a Meter if you prefer, for post 1999 vehicles the GLOW PLUG light flashes the code for the Engine faults -and the HOLD light flashes the code for AT faults.

All the above is gleaned from the Factsheets and the Diagnostic site, I've not had to do it myself yet......

yep I knew i was confused

no change there then

Never done the engine codes just trans and just uesd a wire as per fact sheet

Comparing the Diagnostic Connector sheets; the connector box is like the photo on page 1 of 5. My box does not have pin A, B, or C. This means I do NOT have a FEN, MEN, nor TEN pins to jumper. I have a +B, or pin D, E, F, G, H, M, N, and P.

For example, I can jumper the GND & TAT for Gearbox codes while jumping the +B & FAT pins. This should give me a code if one exists, right?

Yes if TAT and FAT are present then hopefully the ECU for the transmission is connected to them ...... one assumes
Out of interest what is the VIN code on your vehicle (PM if you don't want to put it out publicly-not quite sure what harm it can do but some don't like to expose it!) It would be interesting to look it up on the database and see what it is meant to be equipped with

the test values for the fan switch that dandy refered to earlier are in the manual.
the switch usually looses its value if the end plastic part is knocked causing the brass end to become loose, give it a good wobble test.

In my friend's case the problem was between the short link loom and the main loom connection - the plastic clip had become brittle and the pins weren't making a good connection

dandywarhol wrote:In my friend's case the problem was between the short link loom and the main loom connection - the plastic clip had become brittle and the pins weren't making a good connection

I would really appreciate an invitation to speak with you today if possible. I am awaiting your PM reply with a phone number. I have really cheap rates Canada to UK. Would you be okay with that?
Dave

progroup wrote:

dandywarhol wrote:In my friend's case the problem was between the short link loom and the main loom connection - the plastic clip had become brittle and the pins weren't making a good connection

I would really appreciate an invitation to speak with you today if possible. I am awaiting your PM reply with a phone number. I have really cheap rates Canada to UK. Would you be okay with that?
Dave

Don't have a PM from you Dave - I've an evening class til 9.00 UK time - I'd be ok for a brief chat after that - don't know where my head'll be though..........

FYI: I haven't posted my outcome from yesterday yet. Your going to LOL when I tell you that my crude jumper wires were not even touching the pin assignments! Since I discovered that everything that should be reporting IS reporting. Confirmed that the TWO sequenced codes are 12 and 16. But I will be checking the loom and connectors again for voltage as per the manual AND for bad connections due to age. Either way, the TPS system is the culprit. Whereas the second code #16 doesn't matter because that deals with the EGR system I disconnected and blanked 6 months ago! Funny, but the manual shows that #16 code will remain silent unless you put the ECU into diagnostic mode.

In summary, my LED and the HOLD light now flash the correct sequence of fault codes, namely #12 for the TPS.

So now that I know a little more about what is wrong; I still need to fix it! I am debating whether to go NEW TPS or used from Allan's Garage for $30 GPD. [about $48 CDN].

Thanks again and again for all your collective support so far on this issue! My bad for drawing so much attention given my own goofy mistakes... I should know better! Maybe we get a little lazy using the forums. But the wealth of experience given freely is really hard not to take advantage of.

ahh good you found out

As for your mistake thank you for all you are doing in documenting your work it is and will prove very valuable to others.

its only by mistakes we learn the pitfalls to look for